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Workin' my **** off here. Of course, it's one of the warmest days in a while. Figures all that cool weather would leave when I'm workin' hard in the shop.
Motor mounted to tranny and installed on chassis. motor complete from oil pan to carb. Working on headers and starter installation, almost have it.
Then I have to rig up the starter control and gauge panel. I've got a set of small under-dash gauges, with oil pressure, temp, voltage and a vacuum gauge. I probably won't even wire upthe alternator, I've got a fuly charged battery. It ought to run the coil for a long time even after a few start attempts, no?
Another question while I'm here, the Jeg's pro-starter has a connection for ignition? No instruction, I guess I'll just run a hot as if it were in the ignition run position. Anybody seen a starter like such?
What direction is the pump shaft supposed to turn for priming? I rigged up a priming tool. I think it will work but it's not perfectly straight, wobbles a bit.
I got a few gallons of super 93 unleaded ready :-)
What are you doin' typing on the forum when you should be out getting that thing running? Yer killin' me here! You get out in the garage young man, and don't you come out again till theres fire in the hole!
I have a PC and Cat5 in my shop :-) We are very close. I'm waiting for my camera man and checking a few last connections.
I think I'm going just headers, I hope any bad noises are louder than the exhaust. I ran the previous 390 for bit like this and it was berable, even dorve it to work once :-)
For your starter just rig a jumper wire from the main power terminal to the ignition terminal; that's what the instructions for my PowerMaster said. On the other hand, it might be easier for you to just run a wire to the ignition terminal that you can leave loose; touch it to the battery and she should start to roll. Good luck, we're all cheering for you!
It is alive..stay tuned for a video upload. I'll probably start another thread in the FE forum..
For now they will be quicktime format, big and probably poor audio quality. I've got some on my buddies camcorder he'll have to convert and send to me.
On the rocker arm washers,,, I had to grind two flat spots on my washers so my competition cams rollers would not bind. Either that or next time I have it apart, I will get some smaller washers. I think having the washers is a good idea since you are torquing them down and dont want the bolt to cut into the soft aluminum rocker stands.
How would the washer be different than the bottom of these machinenuts (not sure what to call them, but thay have a wider, smooth bottom as if a built in washer).
I may do the washer grind as well. I guess I need to go back in at some point and retorque the rocker arm studs anyway.
Im not sure the what the difference would be. The only problem I had was that the washers want to spin while you are torquing them down. I held them with pliers(you get to test your dexterity here) while using the torque wrench with the other hand.
Yep! This is a testimony to my amatuer engine building ability and the friendliness and competency of the folks that frequent FTE and particularly the FE engine forum.
Without the folks in this forum I would have never attempted a project like this. I send out a huge "Thank You" to all who have contributed to my learning over the last 2+ years.
Regarding Flatlander, I wish somebody would offer the services and parts that are offered on their web-site, but with the actual quality and attention to detail of somebody like FPA. Hat's off to Stan at FPA.
Another big thank you goes to Summit Racing and Jeg's. It is amazing what one can find and have at their doorstep the next day :-) The guys at Crane Tech service are awesome as well.
As for Flatlander, you know how I feel about them, absolutely terrible customer service. I emailed and called Erson once, and never recieved a return call or email. Fortunately, their parts were purchased through Summit!
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