Very Cool,

 

In order to check the pushrod length, you will need to create or rent an adjustable pushrod. What you want is the length that makes the rocker tip stay centered on the end of the valve stem. If possible use light a light spring on the valve you are checking, it will be easier to see the movement of the rocker on the valve. AWESOME ENGINE!!!! PS. I would have the flexplate neutral balanced to avoid any imbalance.

 

I ordred some Crane adjustable pushrods to get the measurments. Now I'm cealning up the shop. It is way to messy to continue with this project.

I wonder if I can find a local shop to do a final balance and HP dyno?

 

Back to ground zero. As best I can tell, I did damaged the thrust bearing when jackin' with the cam gear. I can push/pull on the flex plate and see the crank move ever so slightly. I assume that is not typical.

Tell me there is only one thrust bearing! Should I take it to a shop at this point, or just try to replace the bearing myself? Any chance I damaged the other bearings?


AAAAHHHRRGGGG!


The project from heck continues...Maybe, one day, this thing will actually run.

 

There is a specification probably around 3-4 thousanths..........

 

I'm sure it's well beyond a few thousandths, a visual guesstimate is somewhere in the 1/32 to 1/64" range.

I added some pics of the crank, there are some welded/filled areas. Is this typical of a new balanced crank? Pics are at the top of the page.

http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f250/67f250/fe446.htm

 

This thing is a c-6 right?

The thrust clearances are less critical on an automatic.

See if you can get a more accurate read on it with a feeler guage and I will try to look up a spec when my girl is done on the big computer.

The crank looks like where "heavy metal" was added it would probably take a good bit to a 390 flywheel. (IE: Yes it looks O.K. to me)

 

The free endplay specification is:

0.004-0.010 with a service wear limit of 0.014.

The thrust bearing face is part of the main bearings.

Did this engine come with a build sheet listing the specifications?

It would not be uncommon for a builder to deviate from the specs based upon their experience particularly with an aftermarket crank.

 

I've been unable to get a detailed build sheet from Flatlander. Just another dissapointment in a long list of dissapointments from them.

Do all bearings have a notch for preventing movement in the direction of the crank axis, or does just the middle bearing?

Assuming I have a new crank, bearings should be standard FE bearings, right? I'm sure they are marked.

Engine is on a stand now with the flex-plate and the other plate that mounts to the block. It looks to be in the way of removing the crank completely. Can I still get to the middle bearings?

I may just take it to a local machine shop (good reputation) for an inspection. They quoted me $50 today to replace all the springs, retainers and clips on my Edel heads with the appropriate Crane parts, and to verify that the seat and open pressures are to the cam specs (sounded pretty reasonable). I bought a valve spring compressor and could not even hardly move the current Ed springs which are lower pressure springs than the Crane parts I need to install.

And yes, it's going with a C6.

 

Honestly, I am not sure which one is the thrust bearing on an FE. It is the one that is "U" shaped vs. a plain shell, with a thrust surface on each side.

The bearing should be stamped with a brand and either "std" or an undersize (like.010) on the backside. I would either replace only the one with the same brand and part# as the rest, or the whole set.

Some cranks are radiused differently and thus require a special type of bearing; I would put a call into SCAT and ask what they recommend as well.

Honestly, I'd get a dial indicator and check it exactly before I tore into it. One little slip putting a nick on a journal is a whole pot of trouble.

 

I went back and pushed/pulled a little more, with nothing attached (flex-plate or timing chain), and it moves, but very little. I may try to get a mic on it tomorrow.

 

Good news. Found me a nice digital dial gauge at Harbor Freight (12" for $50). Not cheap, but a nice tool, accurate to .001". The good news. Crank play is only about .005", seems typical.

Heads are at the local macine shop, they said they would swap all springs, reatainers and clips for $50, so I let them. Something about me poking around on a 344 lb compressed spring with an Autozone loaner spring compressor....not!

I had to get an upgrade $65 dizzy gear for the steel camshaft, just another part to make all this work..every day it's something else.

I think I'll order the degreeing kit they keep referring to in the instructions. As well as some of these different pre-lubes.

When all said and done, I'll have to start assembling motors part time to pay for and use all of these tools and knowledge :-)

I think I'm getting within a week or so of actually running this beast.

 

We're looking forward to the good news of its first ignition.
Please keep us posted.

 

More updates:

Crane, unable to help with the needed ball/cup pushrod checkers.
Smith Brothers of Oregeon, able to help. checkers on the way..another $65...

Crane cam has a little warning note in box, need brass or hardened steel gear for distributor. MSD could not help, Crane sent me the gear, another $65 plus overnight shipping. Got the gear, shaft size is wrong. The MSD shaft steps up just at the gear, very decieving. Wrong gear is on it's way back, and Crane is sending me another gear...no rush now. I'm tired of paying overnight shipping only to get further behind for some other reason.

cam is installed, made a custom tool with some steel and a bolt I had laying around. timing cover is on and balancer/sleeve are installed. Oil pump is installed. For some reason I can't find the oil pan gaskets (or valve cover gaskets ). I know I had them. I may have cleaned them up when I cleaned the shop...crap!

Local machine shop was swapping the Edelbrock Springs that came with the complete Ed Heads for the Crane hardware. They called to tell me the seat and open pressures were about the same as the Crane Spring specs.. Why couldn't Edelbrock tell me this. They told me different numbers and said I should use the crane springs. I told the shop to install the springs anyway, just to satidfy any Crane warranty concerns.

IThought I'd spill all of this info, just in case any of you were thinking of doing something like this. Have plenty of cash or available credit :-)

Anybody in central Texas with a couch I can lease cheap:-)

 

Man, I am *so* looking forward to hearing that you have this together. It sounds like it's going to be a monster.