Injectors for towing?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Keep the S&B - that's what I run with my 160/100s, T500, and 38R. I identify with SRBF150 - that's how I feel with my setup. I think I haze more than the 80% nozzles with cold air/engine/fuel.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster PA
Wow. $2400 for a set of injectors.
What do you think I can get for a kidney? I know my liver isn't worth ****...
OK guys... I need help deciding what to do here.
I have a perfectly functional set of stock injectors with roughly 180,000 miles on them. I bought the truck at 140,000 from the original owner but I have no maintenance records and I don't know how often the oil was changed. It was bone stock when I got it, except for a K&N filter that was nearly plugged solid. I'm pretty sure I hear one injector a little more than the others on the driver's side when its cold. When its warmed up it sounds healthy.
I've heard that the max reasonable lifetime on a set is 300k. Is that about right? At the very least, since I'm going to be into this far anyway, I would like to change the o-rings this spring.
So the big question is.... what would you do:
- Would you just put o-rings on stock injectors and plan on replacing them in 3-4 years?
- Would you attempt to rebuild the injectors to stock specs yourself?
- Would you bite the bullet now, while everything is apart, and spend $2400 on a new set of 160/80 injectors that might lower EGT's by 100 or 150 on grades?
Keep in mind that my goal is to live full-time in my RV for the next few years starting this fall, while traveling around the US.
What do you think I can get for a kidney? I know my liver isn't worth ****...
OK guys... I need help deciding what to do here.
I have a perfectly functional set of stock injectors with roughly 180,000 miles on them. I bought the truck at 140,000 from the original owner but I have no maintenance records and I don't know how often the oil was changed. It was bone stock when I got it, except for a K&N filter that was nearly plugged solid. I'm pretty sure I hear one injector a little more than the others on the driver's side when its cold. When its warmed up it sounds healthy.
I've heard that the max reasonable lifetime on a set is 300k. Is that about right? At the very least, since I'm going to be into this far anyway, I would like to change the o-rings this spring.
So the big question is.... what would you do:
- Would you just put o-rings on stock injectors and plan on replacing them in 3-4 years?
- Would you attempt to rebuild the injectors to stock specs yourself?
- Would you bite the bullet now, while everything is apart, and spend $2400 on a new set of 160/80 injectors that might lower EGT's by 100 or 150 on grades?
Keep in mind that my goal is to live full-time in my RV for the next few years starting this fall, while traveling around the US.
And since you asked,
Re-oring the stock injectors, possibly replacing the glow plugs while you have them out anyway.
And then work on flowing more air, get a 38R if your able to, If not simply rebuild your turbo with a 360 thrust bearing and a billet wheel. Simply increasing your airflow will drop EGT's a bunch.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
I think I'm going to hold off on doing a turbo right now. I would have to go with a 38R because I live in CA, at least right now. I'm probably going to title and register vehicles in Florida eventually, but I'm not sure I'm enough of a speed freak to spend $3200 on T4. I was planning on doing the SPT rebuild kit and compressor wheel. I'm thinking about having them balance the assembly for me too. Glow plugs are on the way.
I read a post a few years ago that a cold air intake is basically useless on these trucks because of the intercooler. I immediately felt stupid for ordering it and have regretted it since. I'm glad it actually turned out to be a good decision. It is a really well-made kit and works great.
I read a post a few years ago that a cold air intake is basically useless on these trucks because of the intercooler. I immediately felt stupid for ordering it and have regretted it since. I'm glad it actually turned out to be a good decision. It is a really well-made kit and works great.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
No. They still flow 160cc per 1000 strokes. The % relates to the size of the nozzle hole...above stock.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Just saw this thread and I didn't read past the post I quoted, so if this was already suggested, ignore it Andy. But if it were me (and this is something I still want to do) I'd put AC codes with 100% nozzles in the Ex, get the PCM flashed for them (so if you have to remove the chip for any reason you can still pass CA smog), and upgrade the tunes on your Hydra.
While I have some fairly hopped up sticks in my truck, and it tows heavy, it mainly does it locally. Our Ex is our main tow pig for vacations and such and I have always wanted to swap to a set of AC's.
I had a stock set of AC's (stock nozzle size) on my old F250 (now my daughters) and that things runs fantastic, pulls hard, and tows like its nothing. Joe (@Gaugepro) also has AC's (can't remember the nozzle size) in his wife's Ex and he likes them too.
One good thing about the AC's (with stock nozzles, not 80% or 100%) is they are an OEM injector, so they can be purchased from just about anywhere that sells parts (think: Autozone or O'Reilly's), so if you happen to be traveling and something happened (rare), you would have many options.
Hey, when and if you go with a JW built trans, are you gonna drive down?
Stewart
While I have some fairly hopped up sticks in my truck, and it tows heavy, it mainly does it locally. Our Ex is our main tow pig for vacations and such and I have always wanted to swap to a set of AC's.
I had a stock set of AC's (stock nozzle size) on my old F250 (now my daughters) and that things runs fantastic, pulls hard, and tows like its nothing. Joe (@Gaugepro) also has AC's (can't remember the nozzle size) in his wife's Ex and he likes them too.
One good thing about the AC's (with stock nozzles, not 80% or 100%) is they are an OEM injector, so they can be purchased from just about anywhere that sells parts (think: Autozone or O'Reilly's), so if you happen to be traveling and something happened (rare), you would have many options.
Hey, when and if you go with a JW built trans, are you gonna drive down?
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; Jan 29, 2017 at 07:37 PM.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,352
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Here is a question that I have not seen before, and it is not too far of the beaten path from what the OP is gaining knowledge about.
Say someone upgrades to 160/80 injectors and their tuning is changed on the Hydra to allow for great towing and daily driving. Then along the road they have a failure on one of the 160/80 injectors for some reason that is not important to the question. Is it possible to put a stock AC (160/0) from a local store into the vehicle and run it with the other 7 injectors still 160/80, or would this be a very bad thing and cause more damage than waiting a week or two for a new injector from their supplier?
Say someone upgrades to 160/80 injectors and their tuning is changed on the Hydra to allow for great towing and daily driving. Then along the road they have a failure on one of the 160/80 injectors for some reason that is not important to the question. Is it possible to put a stock AC (160/0) from a local store into the vehicle and run it with the other 7 injectors still 160/80, or would this be a very bad thing and cause more damage than waiting a week or two for a new injector from their supplier?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 868
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
It would probably run with a slight miss or lower power on the cylinder with the 0% nozzle, but it would get you by until the 80% injector was fixed. Then send the stock one in to get renozzled. In all reality, I think any injector issues on remans will show up sooner, rather than later.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
It would almost be the same as unplugging the offending injector. Spend that kind of money when you can simulate the effect for free? I'd get the truck home and park it until the parts came in... but I have options.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Just saw this thread and I didn't read past the post I quoted, so if this was already suggested, ignore it Andy. But if it were me (and this is something I still want to do) I'd put AC codes with 100% nozzles in the Ex, get the PCM flashed for them (so if you have to remove the chip for any reason you can still pass CA smog), and upgrade the tunes on your Hydra.
While I have some fairly hopped up sticks in my truck, and it tows heavy, it mainly does it locally. Our Ex is our main tow pig for vacations and such and I have always wanted to swap to a set of AC's.
I had a stock set of AC's (stock nozzle size) on my old F250 (now my daughters) and that things runs fantastic, pulls hard, and tows like its nothing. Joe (@Gaugepro) also has AC's (can't remember the nozzle size) in his wife's Ex and he likes them too.
One good thing about the AC's (with stock nozzles, not 80% or 100%) is they are an OEM injector, so they can be purchased from just about anywhere that sells parts (think: Autozone or O'Reilly's), so if you happen to be traveling and something happened (rare), you would have many options.
While I have some fairly hopped up sticks in my truck, and it tows heavy, it mainly does it locally. Our Ex is our main tow pig for vacations and such and I have always wanted to swap to a set of AC's.
I had a stock set of AC's (stock nozzle size) on my old F250 (now my daughters) and that things runs fantastic, pulls hard, and tows like its nothing. Joe (@Gaugepro) also has AC's (can't remember the nozzle size) in his wife's Ex and he likes them too.
One good thing about the AC's (with stock nozzles, not 80% or 100%) is they are an OEM injector, so they can be purchased from just about anywhere that sells parts (think: Autozone or O'Reilly's), so if you happen to be traveling and something happened (rare), you would have many options.
Hey, when and if you go with a JW built trans, are you gonna drive down?
Stewart
Stewart
Wanna make a road trip?
Thread Starter
|
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Here is a question that I have not seen before, and it is not too far of the beaten path from what the OP is gaining knowledge about.
Say someone upgrades to 160/80 injectors and their tuning is changed on the Hydra to allow for great towing and daily driving. Then along the road they have a failure on one of the 160/80 injectors for some reason that is not important to the question. Is it possible to put a stock AC (160/0) from a local store into the vehicle and run it with the other 7 injectors still 160/80, or would this be a very bad thing and cause more damage than waiting a week or two for a new injector from their supplier?
Say someone upgrades to 160/80 injectors and their tuning is changed on the Hydra to allow for great towing and daily driving. Then along the road they have a failure on one of the 160/80 injectors for some reason that is not important to the question. Is it possible to put a stock AC (160/0) from a local store into the vehicle and run it with the other 7 injectors still 160/80, or would this be a very bad thing and cause more damage than waiting a week or two for a new injector from their supplier?
It's an interesting discussion though. In a gas motor a lean mixture in one cylinder will cause a lot of problems, like burned valves and lots of carbon build up. Would a lean mixture in one cylinder in a diesel cause any problems?
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
A tune can make a set of stock injectors haze at idle like a set of B codes on an 11 second truck, or they can make a set of A code 225/100's behave like they are stock at idle.
I'm leaning that way. I am still questioning the wisdom of swapping transmissions by myself in the driveway. Literally every single part on this truck is so heavy that I don't know how I'd do it.
We pulled the trans in my sons truck a few years back in order to send it to John and have him rebuild it. There was three of us and damn was it hairy a couple times.
If you're by yourself, I would make sure to have at least a trans jack and a floor jack to assist with positioning.
The transmission jack that Harbor Freight sells is so small would look like an ant trying to balance a cheese doodle on its back.
Wanna make a road trip?
Stewart
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 868
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
When I replaced my trans, I used an atv jack with a 3'x3' plywood and sandbags. The sandbags conformed to the trans and allowed me to make adjustments to line it up. I did the R&R alone and it worked great.
I had no problems passing smog with 200/80s and neutered tuning flashed to my pcm. I can floor it all day long with zero smoke.
I had no problems passing smog with 200/80s and neutered tuning flashed to my pcm. I can floor it all day long with zero smoke.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
When I replaced my trans, I used an atv jack with a 3'x3' plywood and sandbags. The sandbags conformed to the trans and allowed me to make adjustments to line it up. I did the R&R alone and it worked great.
I had no problems passing smog with 200/80s and neutered tuning flashed to my pcm. I can floor it all day long with zero smoke.
I had no problems passing smog with 200/80s and neutered tuning flashed to my pcm. I can floor it all day long with zero smoke.