coolant filter question. galvanized fitting ok?
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coolant filter question. galvanized fitting ok?
I swear I'm almost done posting new topics haha. I'm installing coolant filter as a bypass system. Question is I couldn't find all the fittings brass. The ball valve is galvanized and so are the 90 degree elbows. Is galvanized ok to use with sca coolant? (Fleet charge)
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
I think I remember being advised not to use galvanized fittings and pipes on my Jetta TDI, but I'm not sure why.
If you need brass, alum, or other ball valves, go to McMaster Carr. It's great. YOu can filter by material and temperature until you get the exact valve you need.
If you just need a brass shut-off valve (5/8"), just go to Home Depot. They got plenty. I've been using some in my van for 2 years and the seals are still good.
If you need brass, alum, or other ball valves, go to McMaster Carr. It's great. YOu can filter by material and temperature until you get the exact valve you need.
If you just need a brass shut-off valve (5/8"), just go to Home Depot. They got plenty. I've been using some in my van for 2 years and the seals are still good.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
I used one PEX valve like this. It lasted for two years so far.
It was at Home Depot and reasonable price. But McMaster has a vaster selection if you want to fine tune your install, but it's more expensive there.
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I heard the zinc would corrode and I don't want that I'm my cooling system. I found all the brass fittings I need at granger. About same price as home depot. Think I spent 44 on all the fittings
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Postmaster
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Zinc corrodes preferentially to other things. Everything corrodes, it's just what goes first.
If you have coolant in there, it should prevent that corrosion, at least as much as possible.
So, think of it this way: that zinc coating is protecting the rest of the engine.
That being said, if it /does/ corrode, it's not going to flake off or anything. It'll just go into solution in the coolant.
If you have coolant in there, it should prevent that corrosion, at least as much as possible.
So, think of it this way: that zinc coating is protecting the rest of the engine.
That being said, if it /does/ corrode, it's not going to flake off or anything. It'll just go into solution in the coolant.
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Elder User
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Zinc corrodes preferentially to other things. Everything corrodes, it's just what goes first.
If you have coolant in there, it should prevent that corrosion, at least as much as possible.
So, think of it this way: that zinc coating is protecting the rest of the engine.
That being said, if it /does/ corrode, it's not going to flake off or anything. It'll just go into solution in the coolant.
If you have coolant in there, it should prevent that corrosion, at least as much as possible.
So, think of it this way: that zinc coating is protecting the rest of the engine.
That being said, if it /does/ corrode, it's not going to flake off or anything. It'll just go into solution in the coolant.
I got all brass fittings
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Zinc corrodes preferentially to other things. Everything corrodes, it's just what goes first.
If you have coolant in there, it should prevent that corrosion, at least as much as possible.
So, think of it this way: that zinc coating is protecting the rest of the engine.
That being said, if it /does/ corrode, it's not going to flake off or anything. It'll just go into solution in the coolant.
If you have coolant in there, it should prevent that corrosion, at least as much as possible.
So, think of it this way: that zinc coating is protecting the rest of the engine.
That being said, if it /does/ corrode, it's not going to flake off or anything. It'll just go into solution in the coolant.
They hang giant ones on the off shore drilling rigs to prevent the steel from rusting. every few years they cut the old worn anodes off and weld new ones on under water.
Problem is as soon as the anode has dissolved the prevention is over then you'd have to replace it and keep checking it. Some drivers are passionate about the anodes in coolant.
Coolant itself is designed to minimize these effects. Simple prevention, use the test strips and check the PH level of the coolant that it's 7.0 or greater. You can actually measure voltage in the coolant. If the coolant holds a charge greater than .3 volts you may have electrolysis issues or grounding issues. Aluminum in the coolant system is the weakest link and must have ph less than 9.0.
here's a excerpt from alstribology.com experts in fluid testing
Aluminium Components in Diesel Engine Cooling Systems
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Great info thank you. For now I left my hoses how they were and installed my coolant filter. Did several flushes on the system still have a rust tint from radiator which is recently replaced and I found bits of rubber floating ny radiator cap. Not from the cap. I flushed it about 5 times or so I lost count. Still found very small pieces if rubber floating by radiator cap and of course I remove them. Just concerned lol. But the job is done and filled with sca coolant and distilled water. Thanks for all the help
Postmaster
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here's a excerpt from alstribology.com experts in fluid testing
Aluminium Components in Diesel Engine Cooling Systems
I found this bit important:
Coolant formulations that contain nitrite corrosion inhibitors (SCA’s) are not recommended in systems that have aluminum brazed heat exchangers and other aluminum parts.
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