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Diesel Site coolant filter question

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Old 03-17-2010, 07:57 AM
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Diesel Site coolant filter question

Recently installed a diesel site coolant filter on my 05 6.0 excursion. I've got about 500-600 miles on it since then. I'm thinking of pulling it and checking out what's in it.

When I ordered it I had a brain fart and didn't get the ball valves with it. So now that I want to pull it, what do I do? Simply unscrew the canister filter like a traditional oil filter? Won't that get coolant all over the place? Also, what is everybody doing to get into the filter? Hacksaw?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:38 AM
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Take two pairs of vice grip pliers and pinch off the two hoses. Remove filter. Go to Home Depot/ Lowes /Menards and buy two ball valves and the appropriate barb fittings. Put it back together. Done like dinner

Regards
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by rickatic
Take two pairs of vice grip pliers and pinch off the two hoses. Remove filter. Go to Home Depot/ Lowes /Menards and buy two ball valves and the appropriate barb fittings. Put it back together. Done like dinner

Regards
Should these ball valves be stainless or something, to avoid electolosis? Just curious.
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:17 AM
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The barb fittings supplied from Dieselsite are brass and the valves are steel, I did not think they were stainless.
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:22 AM
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I think you're wanting to change your filter a little prematurely. Unless of course the filter or the degas hose stays cold. I changed my first at 1500 miles and it definately could've went longer. There was about two or three teaspoons of sand in there. Of course overall I'm fairly low mileage (49K) and my engine/cooling system has so far been healthy.
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:35 AM
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Many here have installed this setup and within 300-500 miles the first filter was full. My first went 350 miles and the second 1000 miles. The third is still flowing well at 1100 miles. If you do not like the cool filter test for flow, release the pressure, carefully, from the degas bottle and pull off the front hose on the degas bottle. Mine flows a nice stream with a good filter, no stream when plugged.

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Last edited by rickatic; 03-17-2010 at 10:37 AM. Reason: fat fingers-no proof read
  #7  
Old 03-17-2010, 12:20 PM
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You may want to go ahead and change it...I think their literature calls for the first 3 change intervals at 500, 1000, 2000, then each year.

Here is my set up with the Home Depot ball valves and an Inline Sight Glass to check coolant flow.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - MoyockPowerstroke's Album: Coolant Bypass Filter
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MoyockPowerstroke
You may want to go ahead and change it...I think their literature calls for the first 3 change intervals at 500, 1000, 2000, then each year.

Here is my set up with the Home Depot ball valves and an Inline Sight Glass to check coolant flow.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - MoyockPowerstroke's Album: Coolant Bypass Filter
Where did you get the inline sight glass? That thing is awesome.
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by utjer
Where did you get the inline sight glass? That thing is awesome.
Here is an earlier post with the source...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ght-glass.html
 
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Old 03-17-2010, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MoyockPowerstroke
Here is an earlier post with the source...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ght-glass.html

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-18-2010, 11:39 AM
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i installed the dieselsite filter at 5k.
changed filter 1st time at ~10k (nearly nothing in it)
changed filter 2nd time at 50k (nearly nothing in it again)
nearly nothing = 1/10 of a teaspoon of what i assume is casting "sluff"

i use metal shears to open (hacksaw will add shavings and confuse results)

since the filter is doing so little i bought a MagnaFuel inline filter to replace the dieselsite filter. Its a reusable filter (25 micron, stainless filter element).
This way i can run the hose direct from the heater hose tap to the degas bottle.

w/ the $ one saves w/ this solution, one could have a hose shop custom crimp the hoses/connections (no more screw clamps)
 
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