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If you do a solid axle swap you'll have to install different springs as well since the TTB springs will ride extremely harsh with a solid axle. Dana 60s aren't cheap and are getting harder to find too. They're still out there but you can expect to pay at least $700 for one.
Everyone hates the factory springs on the f250 ttb's. I have to agree, they just don't look right, but that's the way the factory designed them, arched up in the center.
To elaborate on what Franklin2 said, how do you know that your springs are sagging? If it's because they have negative arch and it doesn't look like you have much up-travel available, that's normal.
If your springs are really sagged your front tires will be tipped in at the top. And note that you need to check that after the truck was moved forward. If you back up it will tip the top of the front tires in too, but that's normal.
To elaborate on what Franklin2 said, how do you know that your springs are sagging? If it's because they have negative arch and it doesn't look like you have much up-travel available, that's normal.
If your springs are really sagged your front tires will be tipped in at the top. And note that you need to check that after the truck was moved forward. If you back up it will tip the top of the front tires in too, but that's normal.
Yes, the F-250 TTB is a quirky animal.
with a lift kit what kind of articulation and travel am i looking at? i want the truck to take the bumps of logs rocks and tractor ruts not my keester
If you do a solid axle swap you'll have to install different springs as well since the TTB springs will ride extremely harsh with a solid axle. Dana 60s aren't cheap and are getting harder to find too. They're still out there but you can expect to pay at least $700 for one.
i have all the late 70's coils suspension stuff laying around when i was thinking of sas'ing my old bronco. but the TTB on it does me proud.
so i would be swappin in a D44HD (8lug 44) with the radius arms, and 4 inch springs.
i have all of those parts... but for a deer lease/farm and ranch truck with good abilities off road. just a good all around truck.
the speed bump here is lift? or swap? comes down to the money really bang for the buck... i dont mind workin on the old hag to keep her around lol
plenty of tools for the job, i can fab what i cant find or buy.
welders, lathes, drill presses, etc... full shop. just dont want to torch something if it will meet the demands.
someone on another forum said if i put a locker in the D50 and a 4 inch lift i will be happy.
Lifting a TTB front end requires drop pivots and pitman arm to keep steering and alignment geometry within limits.
Sky now makes a RSK that works with 250's and uses ToughCountry 20852 drop brackets.
Some welding is required, but not full boxing of the horns.
with a lift kit what kind of articulation and travel am i looking at? i want the truck to take the bumps of logs rocks and tractor ruts not my keester
Most people (me included) think that you can't get what you are looking for out of an F-250 leaf spring TTB suspension. However, having said that I have to admit that I've never driven a lifted leaf sprung TTB.
There is someone on this board (sorry, I'm not remembering his screen name right off) who claims to have had success getting good travel and ride out of a lifted leaf spring TTB. If you can find him (I think he's mostly on the '87-'96 forum) he might be able to help you better than I can.
edit: I was thinking about '89F2urd. I've run into him in a few different threads about lifting F-250s. He seems to know his stuff.
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