When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
wow 220 just seems so low on horsepower, I know these engines are mostly torque and bulletproof when well maintained.
Mind my statement 'at the wheels'.
These engines were rated at 185 HP for a 7.3. This number is 'at the crank', not taking into account all the losses from accessories, transmission, driveline,rear axle, and brakes.
All of which suck up energy. Some more than others.
Dyno testing shows that a stock 7.3 can do around 120 HP on the dyno, measured at the wheels(Hunting 4 horsepower, 2015 in Idaho).
I saw one stock 7.3 recently, turned up(but no extra air), do a whopping 85 HP on the dyno.
So, when you think about 220 HP in that context... It's a good twice the stock HP(or more), and easily more than a stock 7.3 PSD, even a 99-02 one.
Also, I will say that I say that I saw a couple of late-model 7.3 PSDs putting down in the 210-220 HP range, with a few minor mods. Remember that anyone who is going to spend the money to dyno test something is probably going to put some money into improving it.
edit:
Here's a few other PSD numbers: http://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tec...ed-day-of-fun/
Lots of 'performance' Powerstrokes making in the 240-290HP range. And one worn out 7.3 made 76HP in stock mode <_<
I was very unhappy with the performance of my truck (with a turbo no less, early Banks) for the 3 years or so I've owned it. Initially it was extremely pathetic. Simply adjusting the timing from 6.5* to 9* picked up a lot of low end torque off idle but it was still a dog. Eventually my pump started to go bad with the typical hot start issues, I replaced it with a 100cc pump and some new injectors popping at higher psi and it made a big improvement but the truck was still a dog. Quicker in short bursts but it was EGT limited.
Finally I ditched the C6 for a ZF5 and swapped a newer Banks wastegated turbo on it, and it's not fast by any stretch of the imagination but it can feel quick at times. I haven't towed with it yet and I haven't filled the tank in the month or so since the swap to determine MPG, so the real tests are pending... Either way it feels like it's getting close to having the same torque as my 460 truck does and it better get better MPG now.
Basically the truck is tolerable now, acceptable performance but not ideal. It still needs an intercooler. I'll do more performance improvements eventually, but it's important to have realistic expectations and know there is no cheap power with an IDI like there is with a 460 or any other gas engine. With an IDI everything seems to be more fuel and more turbo, and the provisions to handle that. None of it is cheap, that's just the nature of it. I'm sure head porting would help if you're looking for cheap power, especially naturally asirated, but with a turbo the effects probably aren't as pronounced particularly if still running cast logs.
Well today the truck lost prime(start, rev, stall, no start), and it took me FOREVER to start(several hours if jumping). upon getting it running it blew whitish blue smoke for awhile driving in town. The reason It took so long to start is it would not prime. I ended up taking the line from the fuel pump off and turning it over with my thumb over it moving it just a little to let air/small spurts of fuel out until it finally pushed a full stream out. My question is, did my fuel pump quit working for awhile or whats the deal? Then it ran poorly even at low speeds where before my lack of power was only at highway speeds along with the aforementioned smoke.
Chances are either your low pressure transfer pump is shot(probably) or you've got a hole somewhere before it letting air into the system(also likely). Get a new transfer pump($30 or so) and install it. Then make sure your fuel pickup and lines are clean and free of holes.
ok, I'll pick one up tomorrow and swap it out. I blew air into the tank "sealing" it with rags no fuel squirted out anywhere that I saw, so I should be clear of leaks.... hopefully....The smoke is what concerns me most as it usually smokes the same for a few min cold, but it had been idling 30 min to charge before I decided to knock off work early and starting smoking going down the road. I'm going to order the rebuilt transmission from Monster Transmissions tomorrow as well, My question with that is do I just order the 6 lug flexplate(it says that's most common for diesel), and I have to climb under it and look where the speedometer location is. My bad luck with used trucks seems to flaring up 10x on this truck.......
Ok, Latest update. With the new fuel pump I desperately need to turn my injector pump back down...... It runs great, but drinks fuel like a SOB. While both tanks used to run the same since the swap performance on front tank is horrible. Tranny kicks when shifting and power sucks(lack of fuel is my prognosis) Rear tank runs good(other than previously noted highway speed "slip") other than half my fuel is going out the tailpipe unused. So now I'm wondering if my transmission is actually bad or if its just acting up due to motor issues? And the truck still refuses to cold start without revving then stalling under 40 degrees without being plugged in. Plugged in it fires runs without issues on the rear tank, front tank follows rev stall pattern cold plugged in or not.
Ok, Latest update. With the new fuel pump I desperately need to turn my injector pump back down...... It runs great, but drinks fuel like a SOB.
Before worrying about that, unless you are hammering the throttle and it is smoking, turning the IP back down won't help you here.
The IP screw is only the fuel /limit/, and if you can't solve the problem with a light touch on the throttle, you need to fix the timing first.
I've run a 110CC R&D pump NA for a bit before... with all that fuel available, you have to have a real light touch on the throttle... but I /was not/ smoking /except/ when giving it too much pedal.
What color smoke are you getting? If it's black and you have a lot of clatter, you'll probably need to retard the timing. If it's white, you need to advance it a little.
Again, you should /only/ be smoking when you give it more pedal than it can handle.
Once you are at that point, then you can turn down the limit screw to make it easier not to smoke.
Mostly greyish smoke except at WOT. Then It's black. I have since taken it on the highway and overdrive is completely gone now high rpm's no more constant downshifting issue. So I'm sure that's part of my fuel efficiency problem. My weekly fuel cost has doubled commuting 15 miles total a day. All 55 and under driving. Like I say I figure transmission is part of it, but seems awe full coincidental that it changed when I swapped in the new fuel pump
Mostly greyish smoke except at WOT. Then It's black. I have since taken it on the highway and overdrive is completely gone now high rpm's no more constant downshifting issue. So I'm sure that's part of my fuel efficiency problem. My weekly fuel cost has doubled commuting 15 miles total a day. All 55 and under driving. Like I say I figure transmission is part of it, but seems awe full coincidental that it changed when I swapped in the new fuel pump
ok, I'll search the forums for procedure and give it a try since I'm unfamiliar with the process on these trucks. Thanks for the continued help Macrobb. I also just found an 89 F250 donor truck I'm hoping has a good transmission. The donor has an aftermarket turbo kit on it as well . The best part....I was able to convince the wife that for 1k I couldn't afford not to buy it lol
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.