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Aren't #4 and #8 on the same FICM circuit? If so then FICM is suspect regardless of who says it is fine, the connector is also suspect so look for bent connector pins and check that the connector is fully seated in the FICM, the injector wiring harness is new so the OHMs meter will test that full circuit. Lastly replace the FICM power relay and test with a different FICM.
Extreme possibility:
You have replaced the batteries so obviously the voltages have dropped to levels low enough to damage the FICM - again, it does not matter who "checked it out" you need another FICM Power Supply Board and FICM Logic Board to test with. Electronics do strange things with temperature when damaged by low voltage, so it could look fine on a bench and not work worth crap when connected to the motor.
I bet that if you swap injector #4 with any other injector and drive the truck - the computer will throw code on #4 again. That would indicate that the injector is fine and the problem is up stream in the electronics or wiring or wiring connector.
P0261, P0270, P0276, P0279
Injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 are on one FICM connector, the back one
Injectors 2, 3, 5 and 8 are on second FICM connector, the front one
Maybe I missed something, but did you ever do this?
Originally Posted by 87crewdually
Your IPR% hot idle is way off. Should be about 21%. Have you ever pulled the IPR and inspect the screen? with the oil cooler and all that other work done at once it isn't un heard of the IPR getting clogged.
I had the same problem as in your OP right after I had new oil cooler, standpipes, dummy plugs and EGR delete done on my old truck. Turned out the IPR screen was boogered up. Replaced it and all was well. $3, and new tool and a bit of time. I read your whole thread rather quickly, so I'm sure I missed something. Is your original issue fixed and ow you have a different issue?
This will hopefully be my last post. Thanks everyone and I hope others can learn from my experience. Kyle @ Warren diesel overnighted me another set of injectors because he believed that his supplier sent them a bad batch after he had problems with a truck at the shop. I put those in and to no avail no change. I called Kyle again with the bad news. He said F it I'm gonna overnight a new ficm to see if the swamps 58v 100hp Hercules tune isn't bad. Now I sent this ficm to swamps not 30 days before to get checked out and was returned saying it was good. Well I installed the new ficm And low and behold it idled smooth and everything. So I called swamps to inform them and John told me the Hercules tune could possibly be corrupted but never seen it and to take it to Ford and have it flashed to stock. I then called Kyle to let him know and said to call back when I get it flashed. Well now comes 2 days ago problem. I went to take the truck to Ford for the flash when the transmission was making a serious flare from 1-2, 2-3, 3-5 and would slam into 5. Brought it home ticked off. So I messed with a fluid and filters change and still did it. Changed all solenoids and again still did it... So I limped the truck to Ford for a flash just on a hunch that the 3 computers weren't communicating. The Ford tech asking what the trucks problem was cause his computer was saying the ficm cannot be calibrated. So I told him the run down. He put the PCM, TCM and FICM to stock and it still loped badly. So I loaded Kyle's Tow tune #1 and BAM fixed. The Ford tech told me that he did a contribution test between computers and that the PCM and TCM couldn't read the FICM. So it's now running and shifting normal. WOW who woulda thought all this from a corrupt tune in a FICM.. Thanks to everyone who took the time to chime in and show in directions... This here is a lesson to be learned.. Thanks ya all
I tried leaning you toward the FICM. For cases like this is why I have a known good spare behind the seat. A 10 minute switch of FICMs and you have your answer. Like all vehicles that come with a spare fuse, all 6.0's should have access to a spare FICM. Electronics can do goofy things and that thing is jam packed with electronic goodness.
Glad you're on the road.
Thanks for,posting the resolution into the thread, glad things got sorted out and happy that a vendor went above and beyond for you. I just reviewed three posts on this page, FICM, FICM, FICM.
I tried leaning you toward the FICM. For cases like this is why I have a known good spare behind the seat. A 10 minute switch of FICMs and you have your answer. Like all vehicles that come with a spare fuse, all 6.0's should have access to a spare FICM. Electronics can do goofy things and that thing is jam packed with electronic goodness.
Glad you're on the road.
I would rep you if I could. Easy to read this and think that the FICM must be good (upgraded FICM, tested at Swamps, etc).
Originally Posted by Copper.Farm
Thanks for,posting the resolution into the thread, glad things got sorted out and happy that a vendor went above and beyond for you.
Aren't #4 and #8 on the same FICM circuit? If so then FICM is suspect regardless of who says it is fine, the connector is also suspect so look for bent connector pins and check that the connector is fully seated in the FICM, the injector wiring harness is new so the OHMs meter will test that full circuit. Lastly replace the FICM power relay and test with a different FICM.
Extreme possibility:
You have replaced the batteries so obviously the voltages have dropped to levels low enough to damage the FICM - again, it does not matter who "checked it out" you need another FICM Power Supply Board and FICM Logic Board to test with. Electronics do strange things with temperature when damaged by low voltage, so it could look fine on a bench and not work worth crap when connected to the motor.
I would rep you if I could. Easy to read this and think that the FICM must be good (upgraded FIC, tested at Swamps, etc).
+1
+87
Anymore, if I can't test it myself then I should not be messing with it. Too many times we see "well, they checked it out" and they didn't. I see that every day almost every place I look, which is a sad statement.
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