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First off I'm new to FTE and I'm sure there have been numerous threads on my problem/dilemma.
Just to give you a run down on my truck. It's a 06 F-350 4x4 supercrew 6.0 with 78,994 miles. The trucks has been studded with Apr and aftermarket head gasket, Powermax turbo with a wicked wheel, RCD EGR delete kit, 5" turbo back MBRP exhaust, Driven Deisel regulated fuel return system, high REV valve spring kit, EBT sensor, 58volt swamps diesel FICM, edge evolution, within the last 4000 miles New oil cooler, crank sensor, cam sensor, IPR valve, ICP, batteries and lift pump. I think I'm missing a couple things but that's the layout.
Now for my problems recently took the truck to Florida from Illinois towing a 8500# boat. Before I left I had the oil cooler changed, Rotella T6 5w40 ,New filters And 2 bottles of REVX. The try k didn't miss a beat on the 1300 miles trek down. It sat for 3 days before coming back up lite truck. I was gonna drive straight thru and with 1100 miles down and 200 to go the truck acted like it was running out of fuel and died at 90mph. Fuel Gage read 1/2 tank to go. After letting it site a 1/2 hr it finally fired back up and drove 5 miles before doing it again. This went on 3 more times. I even limped it to fill up the tank thinking the gauge was bad. Nope did it again And called for a tow truck. This was in mid october and 20 miles ago. Since then I've replaced fuel filters, lift pump, IPR, ICP, cam and crank sensors, sent the FICM in to have tested, replaced batteries. No the problem is worse. It Now has created a serious miss when it's cold till 90° then it Idles smooth but keeps dying on me like it did when it was towed.
I'm getting ticked off with this truck and I'm at wits end. Can anyone steer me in the direction I need please. Thanks in advance..
For starters, what is your ICP and IPR reading when it's running?
Any way to check for codes?
Initially this sounds like it might be a HP leak somewhere once things are hot, but we need to get some figures from you before you throw the kitchen sink at this thing like countless other poor saps who didn't know what to look for.
ICP runs good pressure as did the old one. And in cold start the IPR runs at 32% till it runs smooth at 90 degrees then drops to 8-14%. As for codes before changing everything recently it threw cam crank ICP and IPR. I could have sworn I had the HPOP was changed at the time the studs were done but I can't find the receipt to prove it.
Your IPR% hot idle is way off. Should be about 21%. Have you ever pulled the IPR and inspect the screen? with the oil cooler and all that other work done at once it isn't un heard of the IPR getting clogged.
When it was apart did they update STC fitting, standpipes, and dummy plugs?
Actual numbers will be more helpful. Saying your ICP has good numbers means nothing. At KOEO it should show about .24v. Hot idle it should be about 585psi.
^^^^^ This - 87 has you covered. One simple test is when you have a no-start is pull the ICP plug (wire) and crank it. The PCM will assume a default value and it will start. If it doesn't, it is more likely there actually is an HPO leak....
87crewdually. Normal operation temp my ICP reads 525-566. I'm going to order the new STC along with dummy plugs and standoffs just in case after read up on them just now.
When the ICP is reading 526, what is ICP des? (desired)
and double check your IPR% reading too and post them.
For a reference, here is a screen shot of the
PIDs of a healthy warmed up 2005 using Forscan app with a Bluetooth OBDII adapter.
You'll notice it has 590.4 psi with a desired 588.7 and IPR of 21.88%
I'm not familiar with one so maybe someone that is can chime in. sometimes you can add readouts. Maybe shop on Amazon and get an ELM Bluetooth Adapter if you have android and get the APP FORSCAN or Torque Pro to monitor and check for codes.
I've read somewhere on the forums that if your crank sensor signal drops out while running the ipr will default to 14%. might be worth while checking out your wire harness for any chafe's or shorts.
ICP runs good pressure as did the old one. And in cold start the IPR runs at 32% till it runs smooth at 90 degrees then drops to 8-14%. As for codes before changing everything recently it threw cam crank ICP and IPR. I could have sworn I had the HPOP was changed at the time the studs were done but I can't find the receipt to prove it.
The odds are your HPOP is still original, it's rare for a late build to thrash an HPOP.
Early builds like mine are known for eating HPOP's, so that might explain why you can't find a ticket for the HPOP. It will likely out last the truck.
Ok. Just got the FICM back from swamps from testing. It was fine. So I installed it and fired the truck up in 10° weather. Plugged in And block temp was 76°. It ran like it was missing random injectors until block temp got to 90°. Now the IPR was reading 24%, ICP reading you psi and ICP voltage at 1.1 volts. I ordered the STC kit the other day. What else could this rough idling be. And it only starts running rough after 45-50 seconds after start up until the block gets to 90 degrees ...
Ok it's 2 no this later and here's and update. I replaced the cam, crank, ICP, IPR, and oil pressure sensor. After all that it came down to buying New injectors. I ordered 155/30 from Warren diesel injection and I have talked extensively with Kyle. He suggested a SCT x4 tuner with custom tunes cause it'll lope a little. Well I ordered the injectors and installed them and figured I'd wait a week to afford the tuner but once I stalled injectors, he wasn't lying it lopped like it was a top fuel dragster. So I ordered the tuner a week later with Kyle's custom tunes. So I installed a tow tune to find out it still lopes and not any better. He sent me another tow tune without any change as well. So I drove it and use my edge evolution as just a no it or and it threw up #4 contribution balance code. I called Kyle and he sent me a new one out. So I changed that and now I'm continuously getting a #4 and #8 contribution balance code. So I changed the injector harness out cleared the codes again and once again still lopes and throws #4 and #8 contribution balance codes.
I'm at a loss guys and close to parting the truck out just to recoup my money.
The loping is probably because you have 2 dead holes, 4 & 8. Did you recheck the FICM plugs? Can you do an injector buzz test to see if it buzzes those 2 injectors. Do you have another FICM to try?
Here's the plugs involved for 4 & 8. Check those circuits with an ohmeter.
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