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...and I can't get the fuel return line off. Using a 7/8 and 11/16 (I think) and it will not budge. I'm afraid I'm going to break something. I thought about taking the return line loose at the bottom and putting it in a vise to take off, but I've read that I need a fuel line disconnect tool. I don't have one and can't go get one until later today.
In a pinch you can use a marker cap. Cut it down the side to slip over the fuel line. Then use some pliers to push the cap into the spring lock. I would try to heat up the 2 fuel line nuts with a heat gun if you have one first tho. Worth a shot and probably would take less time
I'm sure a propane torch is not a good idea but I have to ask.
Definitely not a good idea hehehe
The heat gun is the only thing heating method i would recommend on diesel fuel related parts. It's the safest because it can't get it hot enough to ignite unless there is a lot vapors. Diesel needs a flame basically to ignite and even then it is still hard to light
We did our blue spring and didn't remove any fuel lines. Just took off the cap, had enough play to move it far enough to swap out the spring. Left everything else in place.
We did our blue spring and didn't remove any fuel lines. Just took off the cap, had enough play to move it far enough to swap out the spring. Left everything else in place.
I thought about that. I'll give a try. I got the kit with the cover, but last time I did it I had the kit without the cover.
What a coincidence, just did mine and the fuel line was really tight too. Took the top right screw off the cover and that gave me more room to get at both nuts. Removed the cable at the socket just in front (for the fan?) in case something slipped, one really good effort and it loosened.
There was a touch of rust on the end of the fuel line, but once it was loose it came straight off with my hand. Put it back on with a touch of oil and all looking good - and above 3000rpm I can tell there's lots more go
Jude, there's a hold-down clamp for the hard fuel lines on the head -- it's a 10mm IIRC. That is how I did mine - no line break at the cover required....
I was afraid of causing a leak at the cover/fuel flange, and then was worried I might kink the hard lines if I didn't take that clamp loose. I tell you: getting the bolt back in on the clamp was probably the toughest part of the whole job!
It's good to know it can be done the way you guys did -- has to be the quickest blue spring method yet!
I was afraid of causing a leak at the cover/fuel flange, and then was worried I might kink the hard lines if I didn't take that clamp loose. I tell you: getting the bolt back in on the clamp was probably the toughest part of the whole job!
It's good to know it can be done the way you guys did -- has to be the quickest blue spring method yet!
Thanks for keeping up with my progress Scott. I appreciate that.
Originally Posted by xcrsp440
We did our blue spring and didn't remove any fuel lines. Just took off the cap, had enough play to move it far enough to swap out the spring. Left everything else in place.
I was able to swap out the spring, the o-rings, rubber gasket thingy and the white plastic thingy. Sorry for my imprecise nomenclatures. And thanks for the tip! I had considered it but was afraid to try it until I saw that it had been done by someone else. FTE Rocks!
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