My front cover has a hole in it. Pisses all it's coolant out.

Pan has to drop to fix it. I know that.

Several people have told me that I have to pull the engine out, or take the cab off.

Cab off isn't an option for me. Engine out is.

BUT! I have another guy who says that he has dropped the pan without doing either...

So do I absolutely HAVE to pull the engine out? Or is it possible to do this with the engine in the truck?

 

No the engine can stay in the truck just need to unbolt the motor mount to lift it up a few inches and then un bolt the oil pan to get to the front of the oil pick up tube you will have to remove the rest of the front end to get it out of the truck but you can do it just take your time

 

Its possible to do it in the frame, but a pain in the rear. My advise is to remove the engine and do it right by re sealing everything on that engine that's not accessible when in the truck, only use Motorcraft or IH sealant on the oil pan.

 

Many have found solutions to re-sealing the oil pan with mixed results - engine out or not. Once you factor in the front cover, I've done that on the stand - and I would never want a piece of that under the hood. Once that oil pan is off, you're already into the truck with quite a bit of work - but factor in getting the dampener off, the oil pump, the fan, the water pump, the oil cooler, the fuel bowl, the HPOP... all while not damaging the radiator, your knuckles, or the neighborhood children's sensitive ears....

That front cover is really a thing... you're in it now. You might as well ask if you can replace piston rings with the engine in the truck. It can be done, but it's quicker/easier to pull the engine - even when you factor in the labor/time to remove/install the engine.

Here's what I suggest: Before making a move, a cylinder leak-down test is in order, or at least a proper compression test. If you're going to do this, just make sure the foundation is worth building on.

 

I've already got most of the front end apart. Radiator and intercooler are out already as well as the fan.

Engine is good. I had the heads off of it a few years ago when I did new injectors and cups. (That I now need to do again because it was allowing fuel to get in the coolant.)


Anyway.... I guess I'm in for it...

 

Heads off to do cups? Might I suggest you don't pull the heads next time - I've done cups and helped with cups without pulling heads or engines.



You will discover the front cover doesn't come out - not even with all the visible bolts off. The oil pickup tube is bolted to it inside the oil pan.

 

So what does that mean? The pan has to come off completely?

 

Either off, or low enough to get access to the bolts for the oil pickup tube. There is no way to keep the seal on the oil pan and get the front cover off. Sorry.

 

I understand. I'll pull it out. I've got the front end and all the accessories off now.

What is the situation with the fuel lines and stuff? I've had plenty of gas small block fords in and out of cars and trucks, but I've never pulled a power stroke out.

Anything special I need to know? Like a hidden line or wire that needs to be unhooked? Any tips or tricks?

 

I've never pulled an engine - I bought this one to replace the one in Stinky. I know you need the fuel line quick-disconnect tool for the fuel supply and return line - available at any auto parts store. I've been told we need to pull the turbo to get the engine out, and to jack the transmission up to get the engine back in. I'm not much help here.

 

You can use the quick disconnect tools to release the fuel lines at the drivers lower side near the ground for the block.

I pull the motor with mounts attached, just remove the two nuts per side from the engine cradle.

Make sure:
-Torque converter nuts pulled and pulled back into trans so it doesn't fall out of bellhousing
-If auto with slip joint and carrier bearing, can loosen the trans mounts and carrier bolts and scoot trans backwards
-Harmonic balancer can stay attached
-I pull water pump with fan and clutch as one assembly
-engine harness disconnected at drivers valve cover
-Drivers lower ground disconnected
-Accessory brackets disconnected for more clearance
-Radiator pulled
-Intercooler pulled
-Condensor protected but can stay
-Hood pulled (this way header, headlights, grille can stay)
-Turbo pulled
-Pull A/C compressor and set aside (Do not let it sit so oil can run out into main lines)

I would not even try to reseal the pan OR front cover unless I pulled the motor. There are three spots on the front cover that require TA31 sealant (Ford spec grey sealant) where the o ring does not seal; across the top and then two spots on the lower portion. Ford offers a timing cover reseal kit with the International gray sealant, o rings for the timing cover, HPOP reservoir gasket fyi.

 

No need to remove turbo or accesories from the engine except down pipe, 42 pin connector a ground going towards the back of the passenger head, if auto a bolt holding the dip stick tube, unbolting tranny, motor mounts from the cross member, starter, two grounds on front of engine, ac compressor (no need to in plumb it just move it to the side and power steering bracket. Its not that hard I've done it in 2hrs by myself a couple of times on the fleet.
Its easier to remove the front end (grill header panel, headlights, radiator, radiator support, and IC,
Truck Should look something like the one on the background.

 

...at least until it's out of the truck. It's coming off to remove the front cover.

 

I have removed all the accessories and pulled everything from in front of the engine. I will most likely remove the turbo to gain more clearance.