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What is the magic trick to removing the oil pan without taking out engine? I have turned camshaft to clear oil pan and have managed to remove one of the bolts for the oil pump but I can not reach the other bolt holding on the oil pump. There is not enough clearance to reach 2nd bolt. Any advise??
Thanks.
Sorry I realized I forgot to post the vital info!!! It is a 1975 390. I have been reading various post about this issue. Seems like I am not alone on this problem. If I undo the motor mounts and lift engine from the front will that give me enough clearance? I don't want to seem stupid but I am new at doing this type of project. Where do I need to provide support if I lift the front of engine. Trans lines are removed and dipstick is out. I am wanting to stop leaks and clean everything up. I like to do the job right. Any advise and tips are well appreciated.
Well sounds like your on the right track lifting the front of the engine about three inches should give you the clearance your looking for. I think thas as high as it will go before your back end is up against the cab. Just watch as not to pinch any thing.
i am replacing the oil pump today om my truck, (1st undertaking of this sort)....very easy, undo motor mount bolts, jack up on the harmonic balancer, put 2" wood block on each side between engine and motor mount.....on my truck, i had to remove the oil filter to get to the rear bolt, but i dont know how it is on yours, mine is a 351w, i also had to undo the trans line in front of the oil pan.......hope this helps p.s.- didnt have to unbolt anything on the rear, watch out for your linkages
It would be much better to lift the engine from the top, or make a U-shaped cradle from scrap metal or wood to slip up on both sides of the oil pan so you can jack on the pan rails, I would be reluctant to jack on the balancer, there is a danger of bending or breaking the crank snout.
I would really advise against lifting it from under the harmonic balancer. The best way is to lift with a cherry picker. When I did my oil pan, I lifted the engine with the cherry picker and then slipped small squares of 2x4 in between the mounts to keep the engine up. If I ever have to do this again though, I'm going to just pull the engine and flip it on a stand. Changing the pan gasket on your back is a real pain!
Yes I did get the pan off. I had the truck jacked up high enough that I could sit on my creeper. Didn't have much room to wedge my head inbetween radiator and pan to see what I was doing. I hope that it will not be as hard to put back in!!! I posted a thread about what color I should repaint the pan. I worked several hours getting all the oil and dirt off. It is down to the bare metal. I am thinking about old ford blue. What is the original color? Thanks for all the replies. this is a great forum. Wish I had the confidence to pull the entire motor, sure would have been a much easier job. This is my first restore project.
Mine appears to be the same color as the valve covers and air cleaner. The block was a slightly lighter color. I've since repainted the valve covers and air cleaner to match the original color and I painted them Old Ford Blue. This photo is after a pressure washing of the engine. You can sort of see the oil pan in the shot. If it doesn't show up correctly, the photo is in my gallery.
bout to do the same on mine..change the gasket...i have a 3" body lift..so it doesnt look like i need to mess with jackin the motor..everything seems pretty clear under there. my question....rtv seal or just some vasline to hold the gasket?
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