Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Hoping you guys could help me diagnose a problem before I mess things up. Got two brand-new Motorcraft batteries installed about a month ago and truck has been cranking great. However, the last couple days in the mornings the truck is starting slow and dragging as if the batteries are going bad. It does crank pretty quick but just has a noticeable starter drag now. Since I have no way of diagnosing the batteries with a tester over the holidays, I was hoping you guys could get me in the right direction.

What are the odds that brand new batteries are going bad? I was thinking this is a starter issue since the drag is most prominent in the morning but it does it throughout the day while I'm driving driving on each start. But it's not as bad as the first start-up.

I hooked up a scan tool (Forscan and Dash Command) and the only trouble code I received that something to do with the turbo boost pressure fault, it was a code P1247. I don't see how a turbo boost pressure fault, low pressure, could have any starting related issues but you never know. Just a note this code only came up on my FORScan Lite app but it did not come up on the dash command app so I'm not sure if it's a legitimate code.

So I'm back to a battery or starter issue. Is there a way that I can check without much equipment to detect whether not I have a starter or battery problem. I do have a battery charger but no other equipment.

Thanks in advance. And Happy Thanksgiving again.

Jed

 

I do have a volt meter if there is a way to test voltage on starter

 

You can test at the starter, but test at the batteries first. Whenever I work on something and soon thereafter acts up, I first go back to what I "fixed" last. I would expect the morning start to be the hardest if the battery a sitting over night and voltage is off some.

Once it is up and running, things are loosened up and the batteries are charging at least partially. While anything is possible, the likelihood of both batteries going bad at the same time is pretty darn slim. But start with batteries and cable connections before moving away from that. What is your resting and charging battery voltage? Of course one bad battery could be dragging the other one down.

 

Thanks

Currently charging the batteries. First one (pass side) went to float in about 15 minutes of charging. The driver side has been charging for about 45 minutes and has not going to float yet. I assume after the 2nd battery is fully charged without any errors on charger, I should be get better idea.

 

A loose connection on one battery or the other will lead you to believe the whole system is weak. Verify the conductivity of every major connection to the battery by lifting the positive leads from both batteries and putting your meter lead on the ground post of the battery (not the clamp). Follow the cable and apply the meter lead to the other device (not the cable). One lead to the battery post, and one to the engine block. There is also one test from the passenger battery ground post to the chassis.

For the positive side - first check the battery clamp connections to the GP and AIH relay posts, the starter relay on the passenger fender (pre-2002), the alternator, and the post on the starter. Once those read to your satisfaction, attach the positive clamps and start looking for a bad connection between the two battery positive posts.

Our original starters have been in there for a very long time, and many are about at the end of their service life. Mine is cranking too slow for my taste with new batteries and good connections. I'll be replacing mine - you may want to pull yours to take it to the auto parts store for a test on the bench.

 

Last year I chased a similar problem. Had to replace a (few month old) battery, then starter died in the driveway, then Christmas DAY at about 11pm, had to get a jump and limp well over an hour home because alternator puked.

All the while I was chasing slow cranks, marginal charging voltages, etc.

*Could* it have been wiring, connections, a bad whatever? Yeah, but either it was multiple failures, or one led to the others.

My guess is the starter got weak, overworking the solenoid, causing a parasitic loss/short, eventually damaging the alternator, which drained the batteries until one (marginal) battery died, then the alternator finally puked all the way.

So look for and at all the things mentioned in this thread, but don't stretch it out too long, else you could end up with excessive wear on your soles

 

I too had a slow starter problem. took the batteries out and had them checked at a parts store, they checked out good, pulled the starter and had it checked also and it passed the test. The manager had come over to me and asked the kid to run the starter test again and he had noticed that the Bendix wasnt coming out all the way. He suggested that I try a new starter. Well that did it. Been starting fine ever since.

 

I put my money on the the starter. On my truck and another car I had the same issue. Both time it was excess starter draw. New starters fixed them both. If you have a amp meter check amps to the starter during cranking.

 

A meter that reads inductively by just placing it on the cable to the starter is not very expensive.

 

The problem with my starter wasn't with high draw amps, it passed the amp test. Which lead me to think it was something else. till the store manager pointed out the bad Bendix

 

This right here. Also, Tugly mentioned in great detail how to check the entire system as well. Very good info. I see/hear quite a few of these trucks with a slow start issue. This condition causes for longer cranking because the HPOP needs to see 500 psi before it'll start, so it drags it out. This slow cranking starter issue will take out your batteries very quickly. I have a friend who's truck I work on, it's a 2000 F-250 PS. It needs a starter, but because it starts he feels that he doesn't need to replace it. Well it's killing the batteries because of the heavy demand from the starter, not to mention the wear the slow cranking is causing to other engine parts as well.

 

"I first go back to what I "fixed" last."

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This and Rich's procedure are the best apporachs in my book. Loose connections are the first - and easiest - places to look. A friend of mine and a fleet mechanic for 30 years used ths procedure and he very often did not need to go any further.

 

Thanks guys. Working on suggestions tomor. Prob go ahead and get starter today in case other all checks. Couple more observations and question:

This problem developed over night. One day cranking fast and good. Next morning slow. Drove all day yesterday and every start was weak even after driving about an hour and then immediately starting back up. Charged both batteries separately. Both went to float eventually.

Question: wouldn't a jump from another truck with good battery eliminate any battery issue I may be missing? Bad starter would still have slow start I would think, correct ?

 

Find a local auto electric shop. They can test your starter and properly diagnose your problem, without wasting any of your time. Load test your batteries and have them test starter and you will find your answer quickly.

Good luck!

 

Your testing hypothesis makes sense to me. The fact that your batteries go rapidly to "float" suggests they are fully charged using any charging equipment I know of. It does not, however, eliminate a poor connection or cable so be sure to look closely at that.

As already suggested, there is a testing protocol for a starter and even measuring amp draw while it is in the truck would give you some idea of its current status.

Steve