On the 17 Super Duty's, to add a Sway Bar you will also add a Bracket to the frame, I listed the Bracket part number and hardware in the previous email needed to install... The install job took less than an hour...

 

Thank you very much for listing these parts!!! I was not able to order the rear sway with the 20" wheels on the F350 Plat....

well done sir well done!!!

 

I have added many Sway Bar's to Ford trucks and E-Vans. You will notice the difference the minute you tow or load the truck and drive on the x-way...
I have been a Auto Tech for 20 years and now teach... I have worked for Ford and GM, Ford builds a better truck hands down!!...
Thank you for the compliment... Bob

 

Are you ordering from your local dealer or online? If online from where?

 

Rob, Rodney,

Unless there has been a change for 17 the Big Wig is a 3 hole adjustable sway bar. I ran the center hole and could be harsh if the road was not good, on the #1 its stiffer than OEM (if equipped) but gives a good ride and really gives a seat of the pants feel in the handling dept, truck feels like and does handle out here on the ranch roads with their NARROW lanes and hairpins. #3 if for those who are always loaded...

 

I have maintained the middle hole for the stress the slide in camper adds and to help balance out the air ride. And I understand stiffer ride after removing the factory anti sway which was almost ineffective. One problem is being on an F250 without the upper overloads or an extra leaf in the front. New truck will be better prepared right from the start and I am adding the TorkLift Stableloads which should give me switchable stiffer support under load but the stock ride empty. If the factory anti sway seems to be a problem again I can always upsize to the the BigWig. It will be a one step at a time set of improvements. Even with no doctrine to follow I know it will be good when done. It worked for thousands of miles on the F250, technically way overloaded but (8800 lb OEM MGW) corrected for with heavier components and airbags. I consider the stickers a guide on which to build. Hopefully there will not be so much building this time. Thanks to you both for the comments. I know Rodney and I are on the same page for sure.

 

Gosh, wish I had known, just gave a set away, I ran them on my dually and agree best of both worlds IMO.

I also ran the Rancho RS 9000XL adjustable shocks and IIRC was running the setting on 7 on the rear, unless I was also pulling my trailer and had the camper loaded, then went for the 9.

We MISS our slide in Arctic Fox 1150 but my old Bloodhound, Duke just could not longer jump up or jump out and at 85 lbs he was a load to lift. The 5th wheel has negated the need to pull a trailer sometimes due to the added storage the 5th has. But I suspect we may go back down he road and look at a multi slide camper.

 

Thanks for the offer. I found an in the box brand new set listed as used on Amazon over $100 less than regular price. Must have been a return but it is the correct set and all parts were there and unused. Just not looking forward to drilling the springs bit maybe I will risk my solid carbide drills for pilot holes. Should be a little easier. Or make one of the drill presses they offer for free (excluding 2 way shipping). Some days I feel like your old favorite hound. The floor is a long ways away, vertical is even further.

 

My Tork lifts were orginally bought for my '09 F 350, the fit on my '11 dually and my '15 dually and I never had to do any drilling. I never had to lift or even remove my tires. IIRC I used a cutoff wheel or a sawzall to cut my OEM off and the Tork Lifts had a bolt that when thru the existing hole where the OEM rubber was at....

 

Rob, Rodney, don't know if you guy subscribe to this or not but its free and has a lot of good articles and info online:

Truck Camper Magazine

 

rasalas,

are you going to use both the stable loads and the bigger upper leaf bumpstops from torklift, or just the bottoms?
I am going this route on the new truck instead of air bags. I find that bags are kind of a pain in the rear

 

I am starting with just the lowers. The payload is somewhere between 3900 and 4700 pounds, depending on which chart I read. Camper is dry weight 2650 pounds which is essentially 3300 pounds when fully charged. Then add personnel (2 of us) and our gear and we are at least at 4000 lbs. A couple of short trips and we should have it dialed in. The uppers are on the maybe list. I don't want them engaged at all times but I also don't want to have to install and uninstall between trips. Air bags will be the third main option. I have them now and the system is fine: a switch and gauge under the dash will inflate or deflate at will. I do not like it that the airbags, when bringing the truck to level completely surpass the springs and the airbags present more lean and sway. Maybe a smoother ride but the handling is different in a negative quality. In combination with the heavier springs of the F350 there might be a happy medium. Opinions I have found through forums and RV sights are all over the place. I have a tendency to disbelieve them all when they are so scattered and will head off down the path described above.

And yes a DRW would solve 95% of the issues, but then there is my lovely Susie who can tell the exact right vehicle for the job just from a picture on the interweb and watching the various trucks drive by the house.

 

Torklift recommends starting with the lowers so good plan Rob. The uppers can slap the overloads when driving unloaded and will make for a jarring ride...

 

Thanks Rodney. I thought the same thing. I also thought about using wing nuts and lock washers on the uppers but it looks like the truck might have to be jacked to give enough separation to remove the uppers. Time will tell the full story.

 

Thanks again for the info!