Adding a Rear Sway Bar
#16
#17
Thank you very much for listing these parts!!! I was not able to order the rear sway with the 20" wheels on the F350 Plat....
well done sir well done!!!
#18
I have added many Sway Bar's to Ford trucks and E-Vans. You will notice the difference the minute you tow or load the truck and drive on the x-way...
I have been a Auto Tech for 20 years and now teach... I have worked for Ford and GM, Ford builds a better truck hands down!!...
Thank you for the compliment... Bob
I have been a Auto Tech for 20 years and now teach... I have worked for Ford and GM, Ford builds a better truck hands down!!...
Thank you for the compliment... Bob
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#20
Did you have the 20" wheels? Camper pkg is not available with them. Another difference F250/F350 is the 3 leaf spring pack on the F250 which is a 4 leaf on the F350.
It is just a few dollars more for the Hellwig Big Wig sway bar for anyone hauling heavy with a top heavy load (such as a slide in camper) which will better perform than the OEM. They do give a harsher ride, however.
Big Wig - the Ultimate in Towing Solutions | Hellwig Products
It is just a few dollars more for the Hellwig Big Wig sway bar for anyone hauling heavy with a top heavy load (such as a slide in camper) which will better perform than the OEM. They do give a harsher ride, however.
Big Wig - the Ultimate in Towing Solutions | Hellwig Products
The Hellwig is indeed nice Rob but it sacrifices ride quality. For a TC like you run, I'd make that compromise but for 5th wheel towing I think the OEM bar should be sufficient. Heck, I'm not even sure I'd notice whether it's there or not.
To the OP, lots of guys with the previous gen (11-16) have installed their own due to be being excluded from trucks with 20" wheels. The only thing they've said is a PITA is getting to the nut on the top of the sway bar link on the drivers side. On those trucks, the DEF tank had to be loosened and moved a bit to get to the space where the nut needed to be tightened. Is it the same on the 17's or where you able to bolt everything right up without any interference from other components? I was guessing that maybe with the boxed frame that there was just a weld nut in that location now but have no idea. I was just at a dealer yesterday and forgot to look.
To the OP, lots of guys with the previous gen (11-16) have installed their own due to be being excluded from trucks with 20" wheels. The only thing they've said is a PITA is getting to the nut on the top of the sway bar link on the drivers side. On those trucks, the DEF tank had to be loosened and moved a bit to get to the space where the nut needed to be tightened. Is it the same on the 17's or where you able to bolt everything right up without any interference from other components? I was guessing that maybe with the boxed frame that there was just a weld nut in that location now but have no idea. I was just at a dealer yesterday and forgot to look.
Unless there has been a change for 17 the Big Wig is a 3 hole adjustable sway bar. I ran the center hole and could be harsh if the road was not good, on the #1 its stiffer than OEM (if equipped) but gives a good ride and really gives a seat of the pants feel in the handling dept, truck feels like and does handle out here on the ranch roads with their NARROW lanes and hairpins. #3 if for those who are always loaded...
#21
Rob, Rodney,
Unless there has been a change for 17 the Big Wig is a 3 hole adjustable sway bar. I ran the center hole and could be harsh if the road was not good, on the #1 its stiffer than OEM (if equipped) but gives a good ride and really gives a seat of the pants feel in the handling dept, truck feels like and does handle out here on the ranch roads with their NARROW lanes and hairpins. #3 if for those who are always loaded...
Unless there has been a change for 17 the Big Wig is a 3 hole adjustable sway bar. I ran the center hole and could be harsh if the road was not good, on the #1 its stiffer than OEM (if equipped) but gives a good ride and really gives a seat of the pants feel in the handling dept, truck feels like and does handle out here on the ranch roads with their NARROW lanes and hairpins. #3 if for those who are always loaded...
#22
I have maintained the middle hole for the stress the slide in camper adds and to help balance out the air ride. And I understand stiffer ride after removing the factory anti sway which was almost ineffective. One problem is being on an F250 without the upper overloads or an extra leaf in the front. New truck will be better prepared right from the start and I am adding the TorkLift Stableloads which should give me switchable stiffer support under load but the stock ride empty. If the factory anti sway seems to be a problem again I can always upsize to the the BigWig. It will be a one step at a time set of improvements. Even with no doctrine to follow I know it will be good when done. It worked for thousands of miles on the F250, technically way overloaded but (8800 lb OEM MGW) corrected for with heavier components and airbags. I consider the stickers a guide on which to build. Hopefully there will not be so much building this time. Thanks to you both for the comments. I know Rodney and I are on the same page for sure.
I also ran the Rancho RS 9000XL adjustable shocks and IIRC was running the setting on 7 on the rear, unless I was also pulling my trailer and had the camper loaded, then went for the 9.
We MISS our slide in Arctic Fox 1150 but my old Bloodhound, Duke just could not longer jump up or jump out and at 85 lbs he was a load to lift. The 5th wheel has negated the need to pull a trailer sometimes due to the added storage the 5th has. But I suspect we may go back down he road and look at a multi slide camper.
#23
Thanks for the offer. I found an in the box brand new set listed as used on Amazon over $100 less than regular price. Must have been a return but it is the correct set and all parts were there and unused. Just not looking forward to drilling the springs bit maybe I will risk my solid carbide drills for pilot holes. Should be a little easier. Or make one of the drill presses they offer for free (excluding 2 way shipping). Some days I feel like your old favorite hound. The floor is a long ways away, vertical is even further.
#24
Thanks for the offer. I found an in the box brand new set listed as used on Amazon over $100 less than regular price. Must have been a return but it is the correct set and all parts were there and unused. Just not looking forward to drilling the springs bit maybe I will risk my solid carbide drills for pilot holes. Should be a little easier. Or make one of the drill presses they offer for free (excluding 2 way shipping). Some days I feel like your old favorite hound. The floor is a long ways away, vertical is even further.
#26
#27
And yes a DRW would solve 95% of the issues, but then there is my lovely Susie who can tell the exact right vehicle for the job just from a picture on the interweb and watching the various trucks drive by the house.
#28
#29
Thanks Rodney. I thought the same thing. I also thought about using wing nuts and lock washers on the uppers but it looks like the truck might have to be jacked to give enough separation to remove the uppers. Time will tell the full story.
#30