spindle nut or axle nut
Hey everyone, I started hearing a squeal coming from what I think is the front left wheel. It originally started when I was making a left turn. but then grew into squealing all the time. When I hit the brakes it squeals much more. I thought this might be the bearing/hub assembly and purchased a new timken unit. I have also read that it could be the caliper pistons sticking and not retracting all the way when I let off the brakes. Any ideas? I bought new coil over struts to put in while I'm under there working on the brakes.
I inherited this truck from my Dad and ever since I drove it home about 200miles, it sounded like there was a low groan/grinding noise coming from the front left wheel. I know about 3 years ago he replaced the rotors, but maybe bearings are creating the rough sound which now is causing the squeal? Now, what is the part number for the spindle nut as they say you shouldn't reuse it if your taking it off to replace the hub assembly. I can't find the part number anywhere. Sorry for the length of this and thank you for any suggestions you might have!
Andy
I guess I will find out when I take it apart, but I didn't want to start the job and then have to go all the way and replace the hub assembly without having the spindle nut. I have absolutely no luck on finding a part number for that and i'm sure people out there have changed the hub assemblies. I'm thinking of buys a caliper for that one side just to do everything that it could be coming from. I also see caliper repair kits on Rockauto...don't know how good that is.
Thanks for replying!
A few things come to mind, to be more specific:
-Wheel bearing is bad (usually makes more of a "groan" sound, but I've had a REALLY bad wheel bearing squeal before)
-Brakes. Pads could be worn down to the wear indicators ("squeal clips", as some refer to them), or worse yet worn to the backing plate of the pads. This could be due to a seized caliper, or could be just be worn brake pads from normal wear and tear.
-Both. As the wheel bearing wears more (if you indeed have a bad wheel bearing) the caliper straightens the rotor out as you apply the brakes, but when your brakes aren't applied the wheel hub tends to rest at an angle and cause the rotor to rub against the brake caliper bracket, but will certainly now contact the brake pads at an angle. Depending on many things (brake pad compound, amount of material left, etc) you may hear things squeal more when you apply the brakes, or in other cases squeal more when you're not applying the brakes.
Definitely do like you planned and replace the brakes too while you're in there if you;re not hurting on money. But just a quick look at the pads after taking the wheel off will tell you if you need new pads. If touching the wheel after a bit of driving and finding that it's hot (a bit hotter than your right-front wheel) will tell you a bad wheel bearing and/or bad caliper.
And if you find that the brake pads are worn, check the right-front too in case the left-front isn't worn only due to a bad caliper and/or wheel bearing.
As far as a rebuild kit, they'll save you some money if your caliper is otherwise good, but if the caliper is seized it's not worth trying to rebuild it as the piston bore will likely be rusted or chewed up. Just buy a new or re-manufactured caliper and save yourself the time and headache. Hope that helps!
Dorman AutoGrade type 2 No. 3/4 in. - 16 x 1 1/8 x 5/8 in. axle spindle nut 615-040- ReadReviews onDorman #615-040
I think the original is a flanged nut though, so I'd try to stay with that if so. Here's a bunch of options in Google Shopping:
https://www.google.com/search?q=2003..._AUIBSgA&dpr=1
Don't expect too many places (or possible anywhere) locally to have it in stock, so definitely don't wait till the day before you do the work to try to find one. Make sure you rent a socket for the right size nut too if you don't already have one that large. I'm not sure on the size of the nut off hand, but you can find anything, including part numbers, with Google
. Just keep in mind you don't really need part #'s for much these days unless you're having a hard time trying to find a specific part online. An parts places locally can look up what you need for you.
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