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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 11:16 PM
  #61  
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Well been hitting this install as weather permitting
Got a few things done the last few days here what, I've got done but waiting on a few more an-6 fittings
Added some 80mil sound barrier foil backed behind cab tank.

Got the new tank installed with 5gals.of gas back in it.

Got the inner frame gas filter mounted an plumed in as you may have guessed the inlet has the Black an6 with the return red/blue.

Installed the pump in frame rail on MSD mounting cushions.

Mounted the fuel pressure regular mostly plumed in.

An lastly mounted the ecm as ya can see just about the only place left to mount anything, some cool air will be passed down on top of it to help keep it cool while the vehicle is moving.
[I] Will have to secure all the wiring harness and the fuel lines in the engine bay yet to do. So I'm moving at the speed of right
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 07:29 AM
  #62  
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So far it looks great. Not a whole lot of room left in the engine bay. Looks very modern.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 10:04 AM
  #63  
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Plumbing is looking good.
Do you foresee any issues with the tank's return line being close to the sending unit when the tank is close to empty? Hopefully the fuel stream will not interfere with the float. The return fitting up high on the top of the tank may cause the fuel to be aerated at the pickup tube . If it is a problem you could modify the fitting for a tube routed to tank floor.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 12:21 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by smoky_diesel
Plumbing is looking good.
Do you foresee any issues with the tank's return line being close to the sending unit when the tank is close to empty? Hopefully the fuel stream will not interfere with the float. The return fitting up high on the top of the tank may cause the fuel to be aerated at the pickup tube . If it is a problem you could modify the fitting for a tube routed to tank floor.
The exit pickup goes to the left of the return that why I went to the passenger side for the return line. The sender is made by VDO the main shaft body is about 8-10" deeper into tank then the float arm is about 14" long also going to the passenger side out of the way. So not be any problem of bouncing the float around.

I thought about adding a return exit tube down into the tank, but then could not stop the inner nut from turning an had to hold the inner AN-6 nut inside while tightening the outer AN-6 fitting.

I thought if, I ended up needing to add a return exit tube/pipe into the tank make up a way to hold the bottom nut from turning, an at the time just needed to get it installed.

I can always do it later when not pressed for time since, I'm parked on the street an where, I now live now theirs no extra parking for adult toys having only two parking spaces now.

It not like, I'd have to remove the tank to add a tube. But keep the tank fairly full with gas so with the swishing of gas in the tank at all times should absorb the steady return of fuel and not aerate to much. But will see.

But Thanks for your input thoughts!

Orich
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:08 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by orich
I thought about adding a return exit tube down into the tank, but then could not stop the inner nut from turning an had to hold the inner AN-6 nut inside while tightening the outer AN-6 fitting.

I thought if, I ended up needing to add a return exit tube/pipe into the tank make up a way to hold the bottom nut from turning, an at the time just needed to get it installed.



Orich

Can you bend a cheapie wrench so it will fit in there and hold the inner nut?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:07 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Can you bend a cheapie wrench so it will fit in there and hold the inner nut?
Oh, but I do have a double jointed ratchet other then the one, I used and may be one of the crows claw feet will work. Or a socket tube wrench. I have a brass thin wall tube I was going to JB weld epoxy into the an-6 tank fitting. Did not have all my tools out with me.

And having only a tailgate for a work bench out parked on the street that means having to put everything away an go to my car which is parked out of sight a few 100' away. Or come up stairs to my patio for other tools, I don't use often. So it makes it a little hard when need a special tool it stop everything..

Or do like you say bend an old wrench: Hell, can pick one up for a $buck at the loco flea market an bend the chit out of it which may work best,

Thanks Jeff.

Hey Jeff I have some miscellaneous holly parts an jets also jets for autolite
if you want them as there all used parts free that is.

Send me your home address and,I box it up and send it to you if interested as, I won't have a use for any of it.
Orich
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 03:17 AM
  #67  
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You're getting there!
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 10:15 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by orich
Oh, but I do have a double jointed ratchet other then the one, I used and may be one of the crows claw feet will work. Or a socket tube wrench. I have a brass thin wall tube I was going to JB weld epoxy into the an-6 tank fitting. Did not have all my tools out with me.

And having only a tailgate for a work bench out parked on the street that means having to put everything away an go to my car which is parked out of sight a few 100' away. Or come up stairs to my patio for other tools, I don't use often. So it makes it a little hard when need a special tool it stop everything..

Or do like you say bend an old wrench: Hell, can pick one up for a $buck at the loco flea market an bend the chit out of it which may work best,

Thanks Jeff.

Hey Jeff I have some miscellaneous holly parts an jets also jets for autolite
if you want them as there all used parts free that is.

Send me your home address and,I box it up and send it to you if interested as, I won't have a use for any of it.
Orich
Heck yes. I'll PM you my address. Thanks for the offer neighbor. Having a stash comes in handy. Like a while ago I rebuilt a pair of Holleys for a member of the Kingdom and his neighbor. They had bought them off Evilbay. Both carbs were missing misc. parts that weren't apparent. But since I was rebuilding them I caught it. My stash filled in the blanks.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 10:16 PM
  #69  
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Looking good Rich!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 07:45 AM
  #70  
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Originally Posted by Tomahawk
Looking good Rich!

Thanks Mr.G.
I've done so many upgrades on this truck an that. I am running out of room with wires running everywhere. I might move my Duraspark ll box to the drivers side though to kind of neaten up the passenger fender wall. As it's almost as full of wiring an my cruise control box. This was the reason for mounting it on the right fender wall in the first place. But, I'll will figure it out, always do.
Orich
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 09:21 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by orich
But, I'll will figure it out, always do.
Orich
I have the faith.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 10:47 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
I have the faith.
Hmm or could go back to the HEI dizzy if, I can find a replacement vacuum advance can. That dang Chinese dizzy HEI Vac. can failed after about 2-3k on it.

I bought one off the net that was the wrong one. guess,I was stuck in ford world way of thinking

I did not relies there was so many different Dizzy's that used one like Buick, Olds, Chevy's an so on v6 & v8's motors with different ones.

This was when, I thought to myself screw it an when to a setup that was all oem easier to get replacement parts.

But the HEI dizzy was noticeably a little better at cold starting over all. -
Orich
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 12:07 PM
  #73  
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I would guess they used something pretty much basic. Like say, a 1976 Chebbie C10/20/30 350. So I looked one up for that application. There are different choices. Do you still have the old one to get me the 2 digit number off of?
One choice:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-VC211-Vacuum-Advance-Control/380368548701?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D66af6428a4784d3bb91e8e5019d79bca%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D19%26sd%3D272311162659http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-VC211-Vacuum-Advance-Control/380368548701?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D66af6428a4784d3bb91e8e5019d79bca%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D19%26sd%3D272311162659



2nd choice.

Standard Motor Products part number VC233. Stamped "57".
 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 04:57 PM
  #74  
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Hey Jeff we were both kind of thinking on the same page, and that's what,
I ordered it to short about an inch or so. Now, I just remove the old one out of the HEI unit an go figure no number any where or ID. This was why, I pulled it out I kind of figured it to was Chinese made with no ID of any kind.

I though may be, I'd try and have a parts store guy try matching it up..

But tried flipping it a couple of times on C/list but gave up for a while after one guy offered me $20 bucks for it.
Orich

Edit BUT YOURS LOOKS MOORE LIKE THE HEI I NEED!
Yours has the little cut away on the 3/8" sides

 
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 06:15 PM
  #75  
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The VC233 (#57) has more travel on it than the VC211. They both measure 3 7/16" from the back of the can itself to the center of the mount hole. And both are "Made In Mexico".
 
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