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DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT RETHREADING. IT WILL GET YOU OR SOMEONE KILLED.
That bar keeps the front end under the truck and has a lot of torque loading.
I just did that job. You want to toss the nut and bolt into you scrap bit and start
with new parts. This is one of the cases where you turn the bolt and hold the nut.
You wan to use 3/4" drive tools.
I think the OP was thinking the bolt wouldn't come off because the nut was cross threaded not knowing how tight that thing is supposed to be. In the post it doesn't sound to me like he has the old one off yet. I also suspect he was getting on the bolt and lifting up instead of getting on the nut and pushing down.
Being a flanged nut I think he won't make much headway from the nut side.
I happen to have not dumped my scrap metal box yet and still have the bole
and the nut. As you can see from the nut it looks like it has upset threads to
help lock it on. When I tried to screw it down once I hit the end it got really stiff
do to the locking mechanism. This may or may-not be factory but it does feel
like a self locking metal nut.
I can tell you that the last person to have this off (Less Swab Tiers) did not torque
it correctly. t did not take any major force to take it off. It felt more like 250Lb/Ft
and not the 406 Ft/Lb it should of been.
It would be SOP for me to turn the nut and hold the bolt in this situation. I was trained that way somewhere along the line . There are exceptions of course like when you are wanting to pull a wrench rather than push or if the workspace is tight etc.
And guess what? (Crow served here, lol) In the pic I'm clearly holding the nut and turning the bolt. Looks like it's the best way to get on it straight.
I'll try to get a photo of the new nut with the locking device it has.
Rusty I clearly remember one of the exceptions to the hold the bolt rule
and it was in a Bell 206 Jet Ranger engine to transmission cupeling. The
instructor told us to "read before you do anything" then he said "Your going
to find an exception to the turn the nut rule". I did read it and almost did it
wrong. We are so used to doing things one way that we run on autopilot and
make mistakes.
There is a good chance that the nut is also a lock nut designed to not back off in use. Like said earlier, try to loosen the nut, not the bolt. a little heat might help also but you need to know what you are doing not to do any damage.
They are lockouts, along with many of the chassis nuts. In the shop we called them pinch nuts because it appears the top 2 or 3 threaded area was pinched on the flats to oblong the hole. They are suppose to be a one time use nut because every time you loosen them they loose some of their holding strength.
Here's a sample I found on the web. You can see the deformation.
No, it's designed for quick assembly at the production line, with only a torque limited nut/bolt driver from the one side.
The nut is swaged onto the flange (actually it's a flange nut, the separate flange, then the peaks of the nuts hex are swaged to capture the separate flange), then as its assembled at the factory the flange will lock onto the brackets arm to resist turning. Fords only concern is assembly. Sean's image doesn't show it in the factory position, this is.
First, if it's the bolt that was factory installed, then it's metric. Nothing assembled on vehicles for a very long time has been imperial. Trying to thread the nut imperial ain't going to help fitment to the factory bolt.
Are both the bolt and nut the exact same parts that came off the vehicle? How about removing both a seeing if it's been cross threaded.
The factory torque spec is 405lb-ft.
Serious? My ford seems to be riddled with SAE fasteners?! It's frustrating because literally every time I go to get a wrench I find that it's the other kind.
My old 88 ford truck was the same way. Lots of 18mm heads and nuts too. In all my other circles 18mm is pretty rare.
. There are exceptions of course like when you are wanting to pull a wrench rather than push or if the workspace is tight etc.
