Nut re-threading ?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 55
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Nut re-threading ?
Per the attachment, the "E" distance is .75 inches (3/4).
The nut that goes onto this bolt... I need to "re-thread" it as it won't go onto the bolt.
I did some research - should I be buying/using the 2nd attachment ? a 3/4 tap ?
Thanks
The nut that goes onto this bolt... I need to "re-thread" it as it won't go onto the bolt.
I did some research - should I be buying/using the 2nd attachment ? a 3/4 tap ?
Thanks
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Thanks for the response.
I highlighted the bolt / nut in the picture below.
I understand it's suppose to be on tight however, even with a 48" breaker bar it won't move. Not sure what happened.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Yes but, the -10 part refers to 10 threads per inch. Are you sure that's what the bolt threads are?
Also "rethreading" a nut to a different thread pitch isn't recommended, material was removed when the original threads were cut and even more will be removed when you make the second cut, leaving you with a seriously compromised fastener. Also (I have done this before) as the tap cuts the new threads, the chips it makes as it crosses the old threads will be oddly shaped an get in the cutting edges of the tap causing it to "gall", the second threads you cut will be smeared and rough with sections missing where the old and new threads cross. As TooManyToys was alluding too above, a 3/4 inch bolt is probably holding something pretty important together, be certain this bolt is just for looks and has very little pressure on it as it will not be anywhere near as strong as a proper 3/4 bolt and nut.
Also "rethreading" a nut to a different thread pitch isn't recommended, material was removed when the original threads were cut and even more will be removed when you make the second cut, leaving you with a seriously compromised fastener. Also (I have done this before) as the tap cuts the new threads, the chips it makes as it crosses the old threads will be oddly shaped an get in the cutting edges of the tap causing it to "gall", the second threads you cut will be smeared and rough with sections missing where the old and new threads cross. As TooManyToys was alluding too above, a 3/4 inch bolt is probably holding something pretty important together, be certain this bolt is just for looks and has very little pressure on it as it will not be anywhere near as strong as a proper 3/4 bolt and nut.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,824
Likes: 3,104
From: Jersey Shore
First, if it's the bolt that was factory installed, then it's metric. Nothing assembled on vehicles for a very long time has been imperial. Trying to thread the nut imperial ain't going to help fitment to the factory bolt.
Are both the bolt and nut the exact same parts that came off the vehicle? How about removing both a seeing if it's been cross threaded.
The factory torque spec is 405lb-ft.
Are both the bolt and nut the exact same parts that came off the vehicle? How about removing both a seeing if it's been cross threaded.
The factory torque spec is 405lb-ft.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,824
Likes: 3,104
From: Jersey Shore
A new Ford $100 bolt and nut that has the proper alloy and hardness if these are buggered up.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Put the socket on the nut (not the bolt head) put a piece of pipe (24in should be enough but longer is ok) over the breaker bar, stand on the pipe and bounce a little. 1/2 drive or bigger and six point socket recommended. That thing is tight! The bolt and nut should be ok.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,825
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
When in doubt , punt , take a close look at the threads if smoothed out then there's your issue , sometimes if not too flattened you can run a file into the deep thread to help the nut add a little WD for lube, you can always pull one off a wreak in the junk yard worse case, 100 bucks from the dealer is paying for somebody new phone 
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,824
Likes: 3,104
From: Jersey Shore
Bill, I'm pulling that number out of my head, for one model year. You might be right too.
I've shown this before:
5lb-ft ain't gonna matter. Tough to check unless your calculating body weight vs leverage distance with a breaker bar.
I've shown this before:
5lb-ft ain't gonna matter. Tough to check unless your calculating body weight vs leverage distance with a breaker bar.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
It might help a lot if you tell us what you're working on! Year model etc......
That picture you posted appears to be the "Track Bar" for a 4x4. And you can buy that bolt and nut for about $30 all over
The parts list you posted indicates an M20 nut
RRP:
Your Price:
$27.59 (You save $31.24)
SKU:
TBB-KIT2-OEM
Brand:
MAXX-LIFT
Genuine Ford OEM Track Bar Bolt Kit LB 1999-2004 Ford Super Duty F250 and F350 4x4 Trucks
The Track Bar Bolt Kit includes bolt and nut for factory installed track bar mounting.
Qty. 1 - Part# W706345-S439 -M20 Shoulder Bolt
Qty. 1 - Part# N811886-S436 -M20x2.5 Flange Nut
Regards,
Rick