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I was going to go for three but just in case I missed something I pulled back to two. Mid 80's when I got into testing I'm thinking everything was metric.
Where the OP is located may have a lot to do with it. I see a lot of talk about how hard it is to get x,y and z off and it's surprisingly easy when I go to do it like my track bar or steering box. I've started to notice most of the how to threads and videos I see are people in areas prone to rust and other corrosion. I replaced my track bar 2 weeks ago and used a 30", 1/2 drive bar to get it off no problem, I removed whichever nut/bolt was on the front and held which everyone was to the rear of the truck.
I use SAE on body hardware, seems to fit better in 6 point than metric. Which most likely means I'm +1 size over the fit over the next smallest metric size.
It seems like 75%+ of suspension fasteners on Ford trucks work with 9/16 or 13/16, but doesn't mean that's the "real" size. Now that flank/shoulder/whatever marketing term you want-drive is standard even on the cheapest Chinese sockets it doesn't matter much to bump up a size anymore. I haven't rounded a fastener with a socket made in this century absent BAD corrosion in I don't know how long.
Edit: except front upper shock bolts on an 05+ SD. Screw those little *******s, and the tiny hex key broached in the stem they rode in with. I split both mine off with a cold chisel.
Where the OP is located may have a lot to do with it. I see a lot of talk about how hard it is to get x,y and z off and it's surprisingly easy when I go to do it like my track bar or steering box. I've started to notice most of the how to threads and videos I see are people in areas prone to rust and other corrosion. I replaced my track bar 2 weeks ago and used a 30", 1/2 drive bar to get it off no problem, I removed whichever nut/bolt was on the front and held which everyone was to the rear of the truck.
Funny thing is I used a 3/4" "T" handle that was only 18" long and my foot. It did not take
any force. I would say that who ever put it on did not torque it correctly. I was told that if
the nut is loose that is can execrate any ware to the track bar bushing. In my case a new Ford
track bar was installed at 140K miles and lasted to just about 210K miles. 70K miles in my book
is very performance. I am willing to bet that they did not even use a new nut and bolt.
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Actually the interesting thing about the thread is how little the OP has been it while the usual suspects keep it alive.
Thanks for the correction,I always called them that. I used to be big into English cars and Land rovers. I loved my Jag's too, but I had to GM the electrical system. Lucas the prince of darkness could not cut it. I had to give up the ghost after a while because the frustration got to be too much. I'm glad it took Ford to get them out of the dark ages.
So I got the death wobble turning over a highway interchange this afternoon, and thought of this thread. has me wondering if I tightened everything up after changing the steering box or if the track bar I changed out 2 weeks ago is the culprit. Either way, that's the first time it's ever happened in the 60K I've owned the truck now at 165K
Have some one rock the steering while you watch the track bar bushing and
the other end that has a ball joint and see if they move around a lot. If they do
then you have an idea on what needs work.
Also that is with the truck running. While your at it you can also look at
all the other links to see if one is wobbling when you rock the wheel under power.
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