heat insulation on floor, what works?
#1
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
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heat insulation on floor, what works?
I plan on replacing my floorboards and cab mounts in the coming months. I want to add some good heat insulation/ sound deadener material to the floor and maybe the firewall.
What have you guys used?
I put the silver bubble foil stuff in the roof and doors, but I don't know if that would be a good choice to use on the floor. Wouldn't it get smashed down?
Heat is the main concern. With the headers, transmission, and 110+ desert heat, my feet catch on fire in the summertime. But having a little less road noise will be pleasant too.
What have you guys used?
I put the silver bubble foil stuff in the roof and doors, but I don't know if that would be a good choice to use on the floor. Wouldn't it get smashed down?
Heat is the main concern. With the headers, transmission, and 110+ desert heat, my feet catch on fire in the summertime. But having a little less road noise will be pleasant too.
#2
Generally, Dynamat (or equivalent) then Dynaliner in the inside. Wrap your exhaust with DEI's lava wrap.
... ain't much I can suggest to stave off 140°+ asphalt but there is one way and that is to install large heat shields under your cab - thermally isolated of course as not to conduct heat through the mounting brackets... like the OEMs do with catalytic converter heat shields.
... ain't much I can suggest to stave off 140°+ asphalt but there is one way and that is to install large heat shields under your cab - thermally isolated of course as not to conduct heat through the mounting brackets... like the OEMs do with catalytic converter heat shields.
#4
#5
I sprayed second skin audio(same as lizard skin) inside and out. Then did fatmat from under the dash all the way back to the back wall. Then did the EZ Cool foil fire wall to floor pans. Then did closed cell foam firewall to floor pans. The closed cell foam BY FAR has the best heat and noise reduction.
#6
I did a little work on the drivers side floor then put Boom Mat on the floor and up into the firewall, under the seat, pulled the headliner and did that, inside the doors and pulled the gas tank to put it behind there.
I was more concerned with noise reduction but I noticed a large heat reduction also.
I have headers too.
I love the way the doors sound when closing now, just a good ka-thunk.
Heck, I might even put tunes in it now!
I was more concerned with noise reduction but I noticed a large heat reduction also.
I have headers too.
I love the way the doors sound when closing now, just a good ka-thunk.
Heck, I might even put tunes in it now!
#7
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#9
I used Thermo King foil backed a/c duct foam insulation on the firewall, on the roof, inside the doors, and behind the gas tank. It's pretty cheap, and available at Lowe's or Home Depot. It really cut out the tin can sound. Not sure I want to use it on the floor as it may hold moisture. Eastwood sells some matting that is less expensive than Dynamat.
#10
I used Thermo King foil backed a/c duct foam insulation on the firewall, on the roof, inside the doors, and behind the gas tank. It's pretty cheap, and available at Lowe's or Home Depot. It really cut out the tin can sound. Not sure I want to use it on the floor as it may hold moisture. Eastwood sells some matting that is less expensive than Dynamat.
Order Summit's sound deadener and you'll get a box of Boom Mat... that makes more sense IMO.
#11
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
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about 10+ yrs ago, I did rust repair finished up with Pro-15 floor pans so went to Home Depot an got the hot water heater heat blanket which is like 1/2" jute foil backed.
I cover the whole cab floor. Then, l bought some carpet flooring pad jute an cover the whole heat blanket.
So that doubled the floor insulation for the most part left it about 2" shorter on the door sill edges so the aluminum sill screws for the strip would fit back to place and.
It all compressed down later to maybe a 1/2"+- over all in the floor pan areas.
Gees what a different that made for heat and sound. I later did the doors with more of the heat blanket and finished under the steel door panel with the 1/4" aluminum bubble insulation. Also added to the roof insulation.
Now, is all, I hear is the wind noises from the mirrors and the roof drip rail turbulence that is now annoying.
Picture was taken to show the aluminum diamond kick plate.
#12
about 10+ yrs ago, I did rust repair finished up with Pro-15 floor pans so went to Home Depot an got the hot water heater heat blanket which is like 1/2" jute foil backed.
I cover the whole cab floor. Then, l bought some carpet flooring pad jute an cover the whole heat blanket.
So that doubled the floor insulation for the most part left it about 2" shorter on the door sill edges so the aluminum sill screws for the strip would fit back to place and.
It all compressed down later to maybe a 1/2"+- over all in the floor pan areas.
Gees what a different that made for heat and sound. I later did the doors with more of the heat blanket and finished under the steel door panel with the 1/4" aluminum bubble insulation. Also added to the roof insulation.
Now, is all, I hear is the wind noises from the mirrors and the roof drip rail turbulence that is now annoying.
Picture was taken to show the aluminum diamond kick plate.
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