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Ford F250 Needs New Carb

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Old 10-01-2016, 08:25 PM
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Ford F250 Needs New Carb

Hello Ford Folks,

Vehicle: 1970 Ford F250 Camper Special
Engine: V8 390-2v 255 hp

Problem: Carb leaks gas in a few major areas and a rebuild will not fix it. I ordered a carb that was supposed to work online from O'Rielly and it was a different carb than the original and wouldn't work without customizing many of the line connections.

Does anyone know the best way to get a matching carb? Do I need to customize for the new carb? Again- A rebuild will not work.

THanks!
 
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Old 10-01-2016, 11:01 PM
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More info is needed. Can you positively ID your old carb? If not, post pics of it. It may be the original or it might not.

What exactly did O'reilly sell you?
 
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Old 10-01-2016, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Coastal68
More info is needed. Can you positively ID your old carb? If not, post pics of it. It may be the original or it might not.

What exactly did O'reilly sell you?
Don't ya love it when they think we can see their carb through the interwebs without pictures? My clairvoyance is on the fritz lately. How is yours Coastal?

I suggest .... oh, never mind. It is apparent what needs to be done.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 01:26 AM
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Darn it, my X-ray vision won't work with my glasses on, and I can't read the screen without them. OK, now back to the question, why don't you think a rebuild kit will fix it? Is the carb cracked or something?
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by csharris
Hello Ford Folks,

Vehicle: 1970 Ford F250 Camper Special
Engine: V8 390-2v 255 hp

Problem: Carb leaks gas in a few major areas and a rebuild will not fix it. I ordered a carb that was supposed to work online from O'Rielly and it was a different carb than the original and wouldn't work without customizing many of the line connections.

Does anyone know the best way to get a matching carb? Do I need to customize for the new carb? Again- A rebuild will not work.

THanks!

You will have to post a pic of whats on your truck and what you got for us to help you.
Ignore the others they sometimes seem to forget that not every one has experience trouble shooting issues over the web.

Just some advice, pictures are worth a thousand words, you can never have to many pics.

Post some pics of the carbs and I'm sure some one will be able to help you.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:49 AM
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I bought my carb from a well respected rebuilder on eBay who lives in Tampa. Came in perfect. Like new. Runs like a charm. I can look up his name if you want it.

I have a Holley 43XX I think with electric choke.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:53 AM
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:16 AM
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Possibly got "Scare off".
If gas leaking from the bottom or the side linkage shaft could be float is to high. Ford Autolite Carbs our pretty simple to work on an the biggest mistake newbies make it not latching the float pivot shaft pin over the needle housing into it's groove lock.

Setting the float level it ez.
A lot of pretty good do it yourself youtube videos to watch also.

Orich
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:02 PM
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Thanks for the helpful responses! My bad on not posting pictures. They are added below. This is the carb that was supposed to work on my truck: Tomco 2-373 - Carburetor | O'Reilly Auto Parts





current carb



current carb



current carb
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:26 PM
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[QUOTE=csharris;16616004]Thanks for the helpful responses! My bad on not posting pictures. They are added below. This is the carb that was supposed to work on my truck: Tomco 2-373 - Carburetor | O'Reilly Auto Parts


They are both Autolite/Motorcraft model 2100 Carbs.


And what lines are giving you the issues that will not interchange ? They are the same carbs.

Also where is your carb leaking?
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:31 PM
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Maybe they just sent the wrong one then. The one received had an extra piece off the choke. The lines on the left of the carb had threads where the original just slid over.

The carb is leaking in the front on the vacuum. Two of the bolts won't catch the thread and tapping them in didn't work. It idles fine in neutral but when you hit the throttle the gas sprays out.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:32 PM
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Also- this is my first go at working on a truck so thanks for the help. I'm probably saying things wrong so hopefully what I'm saying makes sense.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by csharris
Maybe they just sent the wrong one then. The one received had an extra piece off the choke. The lines on the left of the carb had threads where the original just slid over.

The carb is leaking in the front on the vacuum. Two of the bolts won't catch the thread and tapping them in didn't work. It idles fine in neutral but when you hit the throttle the gas sprays out.
Also- this is my first go at working on a truck so thanks for the help. I'm probably saying things wrong so hopefully what I'm saying makes sense.
No problem we will get it sorted.

If you could take pics of the specific parts, the extra choke piece on the new carb and where it is missing on yours. the threads on the left,

The leaking area ahead of the vacuum.

And the bolts that wont catch. Stripped bolt holes can be fixed, to better better than new.

Likely all of these problems can be fixed for much less than the $200 you spent on the rebuild.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 01:26 PM
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Thanks. If we could fix the leak it would run smooth I think. The picture with the bolt and leak is below. What's the best way to work with the stripped bolt?



Gas leak explained
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 01:26 PM
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^ Accelerator Pump Cover ^ See 9528 in pic. v

Pic of 1970/71 Auto-Lite 2100 2V - 302/360/390. 1970 was the first year for the 9J549 choke pull-off diaphragm located in the air horn.

ALL 1962/74 Passenger Cars/F100/350's; 1966/74 Bronco & 1969/74 Econoline use the same 2100 series Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V carburetor kit.

The 9J549 diaphragm does not come in the kit.
 
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