I have a 2012 f250 that the check engine light, low fuel light and the fuel gauge says it's empty. The truck has a full tank of gas. I am in camp for another 2 weeks and my girlfriend is driving the truck. I am look for advice on what the problem could be or if anyone else has had this issue. I am thinking a blown fuse or disconnect the battery to reset the computer could solve it. Hoping it's something I can instruct her to do on her own over the phone.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

It's a 6.2L gas

 

Never heard of this, and if it has been discussed I have missed it. Try a battery reset to see if it that will do it, or many of your chain auto stores will check your CEL/Warning lights for free with their scanner to diagnose the problem. I know AutoZone (at least the ones around me) are happy to help.


Good luck and keep us posted.

 

So I got her to do at battery reset and the check engine light went away but the low fuel issue was still there. Latter that night the check engine light came on again also. Back to square one

 

Could a bad fuse be the issue??

 

Is there a reason you suspect a blown fuse? I don't see that being the problem, and honestly suspect you have two different problem. The check engine light means the computer wants to tell you something, so go get your codes read, so you can find out what it is. Could be something very simple, like a slight miss or something, and driving around with a slight miss can cause rich exhaust, which can ruin a catalytic converter. So a simple cheap spark plug could cost you big bucks. Whatever it is, the check engine light will continue to come back until you fix whatever is telling it to come on. As far as the fuel gauge/light, I suppose it could be something electrical in the cluster, but more than likely, it's the float in the tank has sunk or hung up.

 

The only reason I think it could be a fuse is the check engine light, the low fuel light and gas gauge dropped to empty all at the same time while driving. Seems fishy to me....

 

1st get a scanner and find out what code you have. I've had a few minor electrical issues with my truck that stopped when I disconnected the battery overnight. Couldn't hurt to try that.

 

Ok so finally back from camp! I reset the battery and the check engine light didn't come on again. After a few days of driving it around the check engine light still was off but the truck still says no fuel..... I took it in to get codes read... I got 2... they are (p0461) and (p0463). Any ideas for some tests to do in respect with these codes? The shop wants to drop my tank but I have heavy home built skid plates that would have to come off also. They want to charge me $400 in labour, I was thinking of lifting the box out instead. Will this work and is it more or less work to do so? I've never done it. Any input from anyone would be awesome!!! Thanks

 

As far as the gas gauge - I had similar symptoms on a '95 F-250 that had dual fuel tanks. The gauge for the rear tank was stuck on "E" regardless of how much fuel was in the tank. Granted it's not the same truck, but the problem could have the same root cause.

What clued me in on my problem were the few times when I drove through high water. When the truck was thoroughly soaked, the rear tank fuel gauge would suddenly work perfectly for a few days. Then it would revert back to the constant "E" once the truck fully dried out.

Drove with the "dead" gauge for a couple of years (filling up the rear tank according to the trip odometer readings) until I had reason to pull the bed. While doing the bed repairs, I also bought a new fuel pump and sender unit with the idea of changing it out while the bed was off. On that truck, everything was readily accessible from the top. It was a heck of a lot easier to pull the bed than it was to drop the fuel tank to get to the sender.

With my bed off, I could easily see a fair amount of rust on the frame, the fuel tank hangers, etc. that wasn't obvious when I crawled under the truck. I inspected the wire harness and electrical connectors and realized that the fuel level sender unit ground wire was tied to a rusty spot on the frame near the rear fuel tank. The wire connector and its mounting bolt were corroded and the fuel sender didn't have a good path to ground. Once I cleaned it, put on a new connector and made a new ground point, the original sender unit and fuel gauge resumed working. I never had another problem with it for the rest of the time I owned that truck.

RWNJ

 

Pulling the box was the preferred method for years and if you don't have a host the easiest, remove the tailgate for weight, disconnect the wire harness, fuel fill and remove the bolts, then with some help pick it off.

Denny

 

Ok so lucky me maybe. I have after market exhaust on my truck. That a few clamps off and boom I can see the top of the tank and see all the connections perfectly. Does anyone knew or have a wiring diagram for the fuel system? I want to test to see if I'm getting proper power and grounding to the sending unit. If so the I have to pull the box and replace the pump. If either in not getting power or a ground then I can address that hopefully to restore the fuel gauge operation

 

So I quickly measured volts and ohms on the 2 smaller wires( thinking the larger ones are for the pump) I was only getting 5.6v to ground on one of the wires and the other had 150ohms to ground..... seems funny to me. Does anyone know the range of ohms the sending unit puts out? I want to put a resistor in to see want my gauges do but I don't want to overload the circuit and screw something else up

 

BC3Z-9A299-H / FUEL SENDER UNIT

Just looked it up on tasca parts for you. 50 bucks.