Another Trouble Shooting request
The problem started with a slight vibration from 45 - 55 mph.
A few days ago she was started running really rough, and threw a P1316 code. After a day it cleared up and the code went away. Then it came back, along with the rough running. Then went away again.
I went ahead and purchased the AE scanner and have posted the results below.
P1276 Cylinder #6 High to Low Side Open
P0269 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault
P0284 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault
P0605 Internal COntrol Module Read only Memory (ROM) error
I replaced the harness / gaskets a while back after I did the glow plugs, but do not remember if I did the .50Cent mod or not.
I ran a Buzz test using AE, but they all sounded the same to me. This was the first time I used AE so I really was just muddling my way through and trying different tests.
I also ran the KOEO and KOER. Codes listed above.
What do you all think?
The problem started with a slight vibration from 45 - 55 mph.
A few days ago she was started running really rough, and threw a P1316 code. After a day it cleared up and the code went away. Then it came back, along with the rough running. Then went away again.
I went ahead and purchased the AE scanner and have posted the results below.
P1276 Cylinder #6 High to Low Side Open
P0269 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault
P0284 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault
P0605 Internal COntrol Module Read only Memory (ROM) error
I replaced the harness / gaskets a while back after I did the glow plugs, but do not remember if I did the .50Cent mod or not.
I ran a Buzz test using AE, but they all sounded the same to me. This was the first time I used AE so I really was just muddling my way through and trying different tests.
I also ran the KOEO and KOER. Codes listed above.
What do you all think?
While I was pulling things out I noticed that the connector from the engine wiring harness to the outside plug of the UVCH was loose. I seemed to pull out really easy. I noticed that it was a little off kilter when I first laid eyes on it, so I am thinking that that might have been my problem.
Anyone know of a way to make sure this connection stays tight? Maybe I can slip some zip ties around it.
I am also going to go ahead and pull the covers and check the inside connections. I know I ground down the quarters for the 50 cent mod, but seem to recall thinking that the new harness did not need them for some reason (I suffer from severe CRS, makes everyday new!)
I will also pull out the ohm meter and check the pins, I saw the resistance levels somewhere on this forum, ~3.0 is normal I think. Where is that darn search function...
Thanks for the help!
If you are talking about the 9-pin connector to the head being loose, I had that issue too. I just make sure I do all I can to relieve the pulling stress on the wire bundle there. I also cleaned all connectors with electric contact cleaning spray, available at any auto parts or hardware store.
If you are talking about the 42-pin connector, then there is supposed to be a bolt in the center with a 10mm head - this locks it in. If that bolt is missing, I have spare 42-pin connectors here and I can measure the threads on the bolt to learn what you can buy to replace it.
@ COAX9952 - The Fuel line crossover was installed years ago, but thanks for the tip.
@Tugly - This was the 9 pins harness leading into the covers. I have the bolt on the larger connection, but thanks for the offer!
I pulled both valve covers and completed the .50 mod.
Retorqued the rocker arm bolts to 240 In/lbs (20 ft/lbs)
Retorqued the injector lower bolts to 120 in/lbs (10 ft/lbs)
Ziptied the connectors (9 pin that go into the valve cover gasket from the outside of the engine) closed
Cleared the codes and returned the vehicle to a stock tune.
I noticed some residual oil in my intake tubes, and the doghouse CCV seemed to be seeping oil at a pretty steady rate. Nothing on the pavement though.
This morning I drove her to work. (60 miles round trip) She did not seem as peppy but I expected that since it was running the stock file now. On the way home I hit the go-pedal to merge into traffic and was rewarded with a loss of power, rough running and the MIL was on again.
Once I got home I hooked up the AE and took some readings.
DTC Readings after I returned home.
Results of the Cylinder Contribution Test. These are the same results that I had before pulling the valve covers.
I performed a Buzz Test and could not tell a difference from the sounds.
I also did a KOEO and received A P1276 - Cylinder #6 High to Low Side Open.
I did a KOER and got a failed test for an unknown reason. I did this 5 times with the same results. The engine would go through a cycle of running normal, to rough and then kick into a high idle when the test failed. The vehicle would sometimes remain at a high idle and not kick down unless I restarted it. Other times i could hit the brake and it would drop to normal.
I have been reading your post/class on the AE Tugly, and have tried my hand at taking some readings.
A shot of the readings
Another one.
I am still learning how diesels work so am not sure what I am looking at. I am concerned that the my ICP seems to be so high, and my Barometric pressures are not even close to the manifold pressure. That part of your class had me scratching my head Tugly

I did a little research and things still seem to be pointing to the UVCH. Both sides were replaced in 2012, and I KNOW the connections are tight lol. I also found somewhere that said old oil would potentially cause this. I am a tad overdue but that does not seem right to me. The levels are fine, so its not low. I have yet to check the IDM Pins. I found that it is located underneath the Drivers side fender. I was running out of time last night when I finished this up. Can I check the pins on the bolted connector to the main harness instead?
Love this truck, but man do I HATE figuring out problems on computerized vehicles!
Thanks for the Help!
I have tested the wiring harness with my Ohm meter. I tested it at the 42 pin connector, and got 0's for each injector.
I unwrapped the wire loom and visually checked each wire, no abrasions or obvious signs of fraying / shorts.
Connectors were all cleaned and fresh dielectric grease applied.
ICP sensor was replaced.
I bought the PCM Diagnostic manual from Ford and followed the instructions there for the 1316 code. I ran the KOEO test and fould the appropriate page in the manual. The flow chart (or whatever its called) led me to "replace the IDM" after I ohm tested the harness.
Here is a list of the most recent codes.
DTC Pull:
P1249 wastegate control valve performance
P0605 Internal control module read only memory error
P1316 injector driver module codes detected
P1211 injector control pressure higher lower than desired
P1139 water in fuel indicator circuit
B1203 fuel sender circuit or fuel sender circuit short to battery or passenger active head restraint
B1352 ignition key in circuit fault
P1832 Transfer case differential lock-up solenoid circuit failure
KOEO Test:
P0605 Internal control module read only memory error
P1276 Cylinder 6 high to low side open
KOER
P1464 a/c/ demand out of self test range
My concern is the 1280 with the 0605 codes. The 1280 codes lists the PCM as a possible cause, and I have had trouble with the AE software losing communication with the PCM during tests or when I am looking at live data.
The truck runs great, starts right up, moves down the road normally and runs like a scalded dog when I hit the skinny pedal. Is this possible with a bad or malfunctioning PCM and IDM?

Scratching my head over here.
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P0605 is normal - everybody with a chip has that one.
P1211 is not unusual at all with a tune in there, but it would be nice to get a log with a WOT run in there to confirm.
Many of those DTCs look "stale" - I'd clear the whole thing and watch for fresh codes.
The P1316 and P1276 are kin - one leads to the other. These could still be under the heading of "stale"... left over from before you repaired your UVCH.
UVCH - zero ohms? An inexpensive ohmmeter might see 3 ohms as a zero.
Barometric pressure: Go into the PID configuration and set the scale value on that to X 0.1, and you will see a correct reading - assuming you're near sea level.
Our trucks idle at 450-500 PSI ICP, so that looked perfectly normal. Here are some good PIDs to log (plus add Torque Converter Slip on autos):
Over the last two months I have cleared the codes and made a ~500 mile trip (one way) with no issues on the way there. CEL came on while I was there when turning right off a freeway ramp. This was several days after my arrival, and I had no issues prior to this. Light stayed on all the way home (return 500 miles) with no other issues. Truck ran fine.
Last night on the way to work I cleared the below codes:
B1352 Ignition Key in Circuit Fault
B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Failure or Fuel Sender Circuit Short to Battery or Passenger Active Head Restraint
P1249 Wastegate Control Valve Performance
P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected
I should have run a KOEO / KOER test based off the P1316 but didn't think about it at the time, had to get to work. I have ran these test before during previous attempts to diagnose the problems and AE turned up the P1276 I posted about before. Previous Buzz tests did not indicate a difference in tones between any of the injectors, and I paid close attention to #6.
I hooked up AE and recorded the recommended readings from Tugly listed above during my drive to work. AE crapped out on me about half-way to work but I got a decent amount of data, to include a few WOT readings before it did. No CEL either on the way to or from work so far. Data posted below.
My ohmmeter is definitely inexpensive, a Harbor Freight Freebie.
I am still learning, but it seems that this is an intermittent problem. The event occurs, triggers a CEL, and then the problem corrects itself. The problem is that it seems to happen under varying circumstances. The most recent was the turn from the offramp, but it has occurred when cold and I am trying to merge, or randomly as I am cruising steadily down the road.
I checked for loose wires / connections the last time I was under the hood and didn't find anything.
Wish we could sit around and figure this out over some cold beverages, I really appreciate the time you guys take to explain / help boneheads like me!
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