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Hmm, well the wife just asked me what I was doing and when I said I was going out to measure my dipstick she said she always knew men had to do that from time to time.
Anyway the stick here in this F series is 45" from the very tip to the bottom of the plastic T which sockets over the tube a little, so basically about 45" from top of tube to center of range on tip.
That would seem to be about an inch shorter than yours cpb1. Would this stick possibly be from another vehicle like a van maybe? Could 1" account for 7 or 8 extra quarts?
Actually I can see now your T is maybe broken off a little where it covers the end of the metal tube on the engine so maybe yours is only 1/2" or so longer. Hmm. The mystery continues.
My recommendation.
Owners manual states 15 qts. with filter change on my 2005. Many run 14qt.s.
I'd dump in 14-15 qts and see where it is on the stick. That's the new full mark.
Actually I can see now your T is maybe broken off a little where it covers the end of the metal tube on the engine so maybe yours is only 1/2" or so longer. Hmm. The mystery continues.
Yes mine is broken. I usually stick it all the way to the broken part. Normally takes about 14 to 15 quarts to get it in the middle of the hash marks.
Got the engine out. Can anyone advise me on how to check the clutch for remaining life? Normally I look at the spring fingers and if flat that means clutch still good but these fingers are all curved so I don't know what they would look like new.
Looks pretty worn to me. Says ford on it. The flywheel and pressure plate look quite good to me however. Is it possible to just swap in a new disc on a budget? I see prices for clutches range from 500-2000$ which to be honest $1000-2000 was kind of a shock to me for a clutch pack. I know some come with a flywheel.
Seems the south bend clutches are well loved here and around.
If you're on a budget you could replace just the disk but I'd at least have the flywheel resurfaced. My local Napa does it for about 45 bucks or so.
Usually when I'm that far and if there's a lot of miles on it with mostly around town type driving I do everything. Plus with potentially 300,000+ miles that pressure plate may be getting tired. Sounds like funding will dictate so of course your call.
Yeah the spring fingers are a little worn so it's at least a basic clutch kit. I can turn the flywheel here on my lathe if it's flat. A dished one can't be turned that I know of.
Well I was able to acquire a donor motor and it looks visually to be in good shape. No real info on it unfortunately other than it was a front collision. Has the fcim on it but nothing else. Does have clutch and it looks a lot newer than my old one so I think I'll run it. Since I have the older style EGR cooler with the round exchanger I think I'll simply block off the down pipe flange and leave the cooler in place instead of doing a proper delete. From what I understand they were less prone to cracking and if no exhaust in there I imagine the risk is considerably lower still.
I'm also considering NOT doing arp studs right away. Maybe this is foolish, but part of me thinks that some of the head bolt risk will be mitigated by bigger remote oil cooling and hopefully lack of coolant hydro locking the cyl from the EGR cooler. Might seem silly since I have it all sitting out but I'm trying to keep on a budget and those parts add another 600$+ to the build.
Can't fault you there. I did everything under the sun to keep from doing hg (they were already blown) for about a year until I got tired of adding coolant. Not the smartest thing to do on my part but it worked out.
Engine went in very easy last night. Boy it's nice having a fork lift! I asked my gf to help drive the lift while I wrestled the engine. Little did I know but she actually had experience on forklift and jumped at the chance for a sit-down job! I've never has such an easy manual mate-up before which was a nice surprise given the bulk of the engine and the size of the cross member on the frame. So, now I will work on it in-frame. Waiting on the van oil cooler remote adapter to arrive, as well as my 40row cooler unit and oil filter head.
The Baldwin bd7309 filter is about 40$ though and I'm wondering if there is a suitable alternative that isn't quite as expensive? I'll do it if I have to but given the quantities and qualities of oil and stuff on this engine it puts my oil change cost pretty high, and as you can tell I'm dangerously cheap.
