Does the upper ball joint rotate?
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Cross-Country
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Does the upper ball joint rotate?
Finally got the camber adapter to reach the ball joint boot (first 2 ball joints measured .820 and .827 at the shafts widest) by returning one of the joints and getting a .820 to match the other side which fits perfect, now by tightening the nut to where the adjuster/spindle will reach the boot the ball joint shaft, adjuster and spindle all turn together and its hard to turn--the spindle on the other side rotates on the camber adapter...which is correct and what do I do to the side that's not...sorry about all the questions but I've never had so much trouble w a ball joint setup in my life!
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From: Virginia
It should not be turning in the camber adapter. That is the tapered shaft and should be locked tight. Only the ball part under the rubber boot should turn when spinning the spindle.
In other words, see the grease fitting? That part inside underneath the grease fitting is the part that turns(the "ball" joint). The shaft that comes down out of the rubber boot should be locked tight to the camber adjuster, and the camber adjuster should be wedged/locked tight to the spindle.
In other words, see the grease fitting? That part inside underneath the grease fitting is the part that turns(the "ball" joint). The shaft that comes down out of the rubber boot should be locked tight to the camber adjuster, and the camber adjuster should be wedged/locked tight to the spindle.
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From: Virginia
Yes, I think you have it now. Pull that castle nut up very tight. If you run out of castles again, add washers or something but get it very tight, you do not want this thing coming off.
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From: Virginia
My book says the upper balljoint castle nut should be tightened to 85-110ft lbs. The lower balljoint nut should be 104-146 ftlbs. Those are high numbers. Backyard translation: Use a 1/2" breaker bar and pull it on it pretty good, or a 1/2" ratchet with a short cheater pipe on it and pull it tight.
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