Dana 60 ball joints tight
#1
Dana 60 ball joints tight
I have just installed new ball joint on a Dana 60 I picked up to do a swap with. I want to start by saying I started with the proper torque procedure, 30 lower, 70 upper, 150 lower. My lower ball joints are working properly and feel good. The upper ball joint is stiff on both sides. When I turn the knuckle the nut stays put and the whole ball joint shaft spins. If I put a cotter pin in it just snaps it. If I loosen the top nut the spindle is free and turns fine but the ball joint shaft still turns with the knuckle. Anyone have any suggestions? The caster/camber bushings are original and did not move when I took the knuckle off.
#2
First thought comes to mind, you where given incorrect ball joints.
Post tapper not right and or incorrect diameter, too small allowing it it to run out of threads and trying to pull the ball from its socket in the process, reason it gets stiff to turn knuckle when you attempt to tighten them.
You're gonna have to pull them back off and verify they are correct for the axle. Measure diameter top and bottom of taper for the ball joint then same for its corresponding hole top of the axle. Measure its lower and upper diameters and how far apart they are (how "thick" it is, gotta know that to know its taper) compare those measurements with the post on the ball joint. Should become readily apparent what the problem is by doing so and what to check when at the parts store, verify they are giving you the correct part moving forward.
Post tapper not right and or incorrect diameter, too small allowing it it to run out of threads and trying to pull the ball from its socket in the process, reason it gets stiff to turn knuckle when you attempt to tighten them.
You're gonna have to pull them back off and verify they are correct for the axle. Measure diameter top and bottom of taper for the ball joint then same for its corresponding hole top of the axle. Measure its lower and upper diameters and how far apart they are (how "thick" it is, gotta know that to know its taper) compare those measurements with the post on the ball joint. Should become readily apparent what the problem is by doing so and what to check when at the parts store, verify they are giving you the correct part moving forward.
#3
#6
Did you compare old to new? Probably not yet, no real reason to at least till now.
You bought this axle for a swap correct? are you positive of the model/year its out of? Any chance that information isn't right?
Possible the ball joints are correct maybe mismatch all in the bushings, any sign suggest they'd been reamed out little bit by some bone head? again probably not yet wouldn't have had any reason till this point to look that close.
You bought this axle for a swap correct? are you positive of the model/year its out of? Any chance that information isn't right?
Possible the ball joints are correct maybe mismatch all in the bushings, any sign suggest they'd been reamed out little bit by some bone head? again probably not yet wouldn't have had any reason till this point to look that close.
#7
BillaVista.com-Dana 60 Front Axle Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
This will help you I.D. the axle.
This will help you I.D. the axle.
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#8
#9
Did you compare the lower ball joints old and new?
Fact you spun it with a impact isn't such a big deal no, not just spinning in place. However based on what you said I'd be more concern with the fact sounds like act of tightening it was attempting to pull the ball out of the top of its socket doing so.
Hurt it? hard to say at this point.
Did you look the adjustment bushings over good? no signs someone hacked at em?
Got something screwed up there that's fore sure.
Its possible the lower isn't correct question is what did they give you, the D50 for example uses the same ball joints, I mean the guy at the parts counter he'd have to work at it to get it wrong I'd think.
What are the part numbers and where did you buy them?
Fact you spun it with a impact isn't such a big deal no, not just spinning in place. However based on what you said I'd be more concern with the fact sounds like act of tightening it was attempting to pull the ball out of the top of its socket doing so.
Hurt it? hard to say at this point.
Did you look the adjustment bushings over good? no signs someone hacked at em?
Got something screwed up there that's fore sure.
Its possible the lower isn't correct question is what did they give you, the D50 for example uses the same ball joints, I mean the guy at the parts counter he'd have to work at it to get it wrong I'd think.
What are the part numbers and where did you buy them?
#10
Got the ball joints from rock auto. They are mk8607t and mk80026. I checked the bushings and don't see anything wrong there. I just pulled the differential and replaced axle seals and buckled that all up. Now these are holding me up. I've change a lot of ball joints and never have seen anything like this. Id hate to go buy more ball joints only to have the same problem again. Btw, I installed that knuckle again and it's still doing the same thing.
#12
Yep. Both sides are doing the same thing. The uppers were completely shot when I got it though. Had 153k on what I assume were the originals and I'm pretty sure it had a snow plow most of its life. I'm wondering if the bushings didn't get ruined from the old ball joints allowing these new ones to go in too far.
#13
Yep. Both sides are doing the same thing. The uppers were completely shot when I got it though. Had 153k on what I assume were the originals and I'm pretty sure it had a snow plow most of its life. I'm wondering if the bushings didn't get ruined from the old ball joints allowing these new ones to go in too far.
How did you remove them how'd you go about it that, removing the knuckles from the axle?
Doubt it even if went at it with a very large hammer for example....large press didn't properly support knuckle?... any chance you distorted the knuckles in the process? closed the "C" down little bit, bent top boss down pushing lower out via the top ball joint?
#14