Ball Joints 89 BII
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Tuned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 334
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Ball Joints 89 BII
I am in the process of replacing ball joints on my BII. Dana 28 with threaded studs. I have a question about my current set up. On the upper ball joint, there is the cotter key, the ball joint nut, and then there is another nut/spacer between the ball joint nut, and the camber adjuster. This extra nut does not screw on to the ball joint stud. It just sits there and spins like it is a spacer of some sort. Doesn't look right to me, but it is the same set up on both sides. Has anyone replaced their ball joints that can feed me some info on this? Thanks
Tommyj
Forgot; it is a 4WD...
Tommyj
Forgot; it is a 4WD...
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,208
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From: Wichita, KS
Sounds like you are talking about the adjuster cam. That is used to align the front end. They come in a number of different degrees. Zero would be the bore straight up and down. Some times they are stamped 0 or 1 or 2 degrees ect.... As they are turned they will tilt the upper ball joint forward and backwards and move the top in or out for alignment. Mark where they are at and put them back where they are before you changed the ball joints. Below is a pic of two types. They one on the left is stamped 0 degrees. Most times they are not zero.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 334
Likes: 4
Sounds like you are talking about the adjuster cam. That is used to align the front end. They come in a number of different degrees. Zero would be the bore straight up and down. Some times they are stamped 0 or 1 or 2 degrees ect.... As they are turned they will tilt the upper ball joint forward and backwards and move the top in or out for alignment. Mark where they are at and put them back where they are before you changed the ball joints. Below is a pic of two types. They one on the left is stamped 0 degrees. Most times they are not zero.
Tommyj
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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Good Luck
Hi Tommy,
I have an 88 but it didn't have the adjusters. Looks like you have it under control. Just put it back the way it came out. I tried to change mine this week, but couldn't get the knuckle to seperate from the TTB arm after removing the bolts. I pounded it good but gave up, they must be fused. Did I miss something?
If you have trouble with the spindle just use chissles at 3 and 9 oclock positions and work it off. Then coat with anti sieze when you re assemble.
Tim
I have an 88 but it didn't have the adjusters. Looks like you have it under control. Just put it back the way it came out. I tried to change mine this week, but couldn't get the knuckle to seperate from the TTB arm after removing the bolts. I pounded it good but gave up, they must be fused. Did I miss something?
If you have trouble with the spindle just use chissles at 3 and 9 oclock positions and work it off. Then coat with anti sieze when you re assemble.
Tim
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,208
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From: Wichita, KS
Tim and Tommy and everyone else too, They make a screw on attachment for a slide hammer that screws on the end of the spindle. This is the easy way to remove the spindle. Trying to beat it off one side at a time wedges it in tighter. A couple of blows on the slide hammer and it is pulled straight out. If ya do it this way once you will never want to go back to trying to beating on them. Many rental places will rent slide hammers and some auto parts stores will also if you buy the parts from them.
Tim, I have even had the Knuckle start moving before the ball joint. That can be a mess. You can use heat if you have it. PB Blaster is always worth a try. A bigger hammer migh be what you need. Been a long time since I did work on a 28 but try screwing the nut back on part way and hitting that or see if you can get a pickle fork in between the knuckle and beam. And you should have the adjuster cams. If not There would be a big hole in the top of the knuckle and nothing for the nut to push on.
Tim, I have even had the Knuckle start moving before the ball joint. That can be a mess. You can use heat if you have it. PB Blaster is always worth a try. A bigger hammer migh be what you need. Been a long time since I did work on a 28 but try screwing the nut back on part way and hitting that or see if you can get a pickle fork in between the knuckle and beam. And you should have the adjuster cams. If not There would be a big hole in the top of the knuckle and nothing for the nut to push on.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 296
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was helping my friend swap his jointsd out once, pounding and pounding didnt loosen the balljoint from the base. ended taking it to the tire shop and they had it out in like 2 seconds. found out it helps to pound on the right side...
on my chevy i had to cut the post on the upper joint between the knuckle and mount, then use a bf hammer cause i coukldnt seperate them. they went together at one time, just be persisesnt and you can fix it.
on my chevy i had to cut the post on the upper joint between the knuckle and mount, then use a bf hammer cause i coukldnt seperate them. they went together at one time, just be persisesnt and you can fix it.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2004
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It looks like that extra nut was just used as a spacer. Looking at the new ball joints, the hole for the cotter key will be above the castle nut after tightening.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2004
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Ok..Installed the ball joints in the steering knuckle. Installed the steering knuckle and went to tighten down the ball joint nuts. The upper ball joint taper does not press fit into the adjuster nut. The adjuster nut bottoms out on the ball joint body itself. When I turn the steering knuckle side to side, the whole assembly moves with it, stud and all. I am not an expert, but this doesn't seem right to me. I took it apart, and took the adjuster nut out, and slid it over the old ball joint with the same results. The adjuster nut is like a split sleeve. I wonder if they are just one time use items. As you tighten the nut the taper actually spreads the adjuster nut, and you can't reuse it. Any ideas out there? I don't see any notes that state to change the adjuster except for alignment issues. Thanks in advance.
TommyJ
89 Bronco II 4WD
TommyJ
89 Bronco II 4WD
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Wichita, KS
Really hard to tell without looking at it. Is it on just the one side that was double nuted? If so can you compare the adjuster from the other side to the problem one? Is there a part number or degree stamped on the adjuster?
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Tuned
Joined: May 2004
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Both sides are the same. The axle is jacked up. The issue I am having, is that the adjuster nut; when removed, slides over the ball joint stud, without any interference. It doesn't hit the taper. It bottoms out on the ball joint body itself. New and old ball joint experience the same results. Cheers
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,208
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From: Wichita, KS
I would pull the adjusters and clean them up and look for any numbers on them. Then if you have some calipers measure the inside of the beam bore and the outside of the ball joint stud. Then go back to where I bought the ball joints and make sure you have the correct ball joints (they weren't boxed wrong) and compare new cams to what you have.
The only other thing I can think to check is if for some reason someone had put a dana 35 in the front in place of the dana 28.
I have a couple of dana 35's but no dana 28's at this time to take measurements of or pictures. The dana 35 has a pinch bolt on top and used the cam on the right pictured in my earlier post.
Here is a link to an auto parts store and available type adjuster cams. Just woundering if you might have a two piece after market cam and part is missing? O'Reilly Auto Parts - Shopping
Are you able to take pics and post them?
The only other thing I can think to check is if for some reason someone had put a dana 35 in the front in place of the dana 28.
I have a couple of dana 35's but no dana 28's at this time to take measurements of or pictures. The dana 35 has a pinch bolt on top and used the cam on the right pictured in my earlier post.
Here is a link to an auto parts store and available type adjuster cams. Just woundering if you might have a two piece after market cam and part is missing? O'Reilly Auto Parts - Shopping
Are you able to take pics and post them?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 334
Likes: 4
I would pull the adjusters and clean them up and look for any numbers on them. Then if you have some calipers measure the inside of the beam bore and the outside of the ball joint stud. Then go back to where I bought the ball joints and make sure you have the correct ball joints (they weren't boxed wrong) and compare new cams to what you have.
The only other thing I can think to check is if for some reason someone had put a dana 35 in the front in place of the dana 28.
I have a couple of dana 35's but no dana 28's at this time to take measurements of or pictures. The dana 35 has a pinch bolt on top and used the cam on the right pictured in my earlier post.
Here is a link to an auto parts store and available type adjuster cams. Just woundering if you might have a two piece after market cam and part is missing? O'Reilly Auto Parts - Shopping
Are you able to take pics and post them?
The only other thing I can think to check is if for some reason someone had put a dana 35 in the front in place of the dana 28.
I have a couple of dana 35's but no dana 28's at this time to take measurements of or pictures. The dana 35 has a pinch bolt on top and used the cam on the right pictured in my earlier post.
Here is a link to an auto parts store and available type adjuster cams. Just woundering if you might have a two piece after market cam and part is missing? O'Reilly Auto Parts - Shopping
Are you able to take pics and post them?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 334
Likes: 4
Sounds like you are talking about the adjuster cam. That is used to align the front end. They come in a number of different degrees. Zero would be the bore straight up and down. Some times they are stamped 0 or 1 or 2 degrees ect.... As they are turned they will tilt the upper ball joint forward and backwards and move the top in or out for alignment. Mark where they are at and put them back where they are before you changed the ball joints. Below is a pic of two types. They one on the left is stamped 0 degrees. Most times they are not zero.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,208
Likes: 8
From: Wichita, KS
What is suppose to happen is that the part that is split is supposed to go inside a bored hole in the beam. That hole will squeeze the cam and the split will close some. Then as the nut is tightened and moves the cam down the ball joint stud is pulled/pressed into the inside bore of the cam.
So you just need to find where the problem is. If the cam is going down inside the bore and the nut is tighten it should lock in solid. When the nut is loosened the cam is worked free then rotated to fine tune or adjust alignment. Then the nut is tightened again everthing is locked in place. This only happens in the last little bit.
Below is pics of the dana 35 pinch bolt beam end and then the cut off dana 44 beam end and cams. I think the 28 is like the 44 and has the slots cut in the outside of the adjuster (or adjuster housing?). I'm just going from the pics on the auto parts store web site and am not sure is the cams are two peice or not. The cam needs to go all way down in the bore in the end of the beams. And the ball joints need to be fully seated up in the knuckle.
So you just need to find where the problem is. If the cam is going down inside the bore and the nut is tighten it should lock in solid. When the nut is loosened the cam is worked free then rotated to fine tune or adjust alignment. Then the nut is tightened again everthing is locked in place. This only happens in the last little bit.
Below is pics of the dana 35 pinch bolt beam end and then the cut off dana 44 beam end and cams. I think the 28 is like the 44 and has the slots cut in the outside of the adjuster (or adjuster housing?). I'm just going from the pics on the auto parts store web site and am not sure is the cams are two peice or not. The cam needs to go all way down in the bore in the end of the beams. And the ball joints need to be fully seated up in the knuckle.