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AC Bad? Is this normal? Video.

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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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AC Bad? Is this normal? Video.

The AC works, but now that I see this, i do remember that sometimes it feels like it stops getting cold.

Anyone know what this means? Needs a charge or ac going bad?

 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 02:56 PM
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Looks like it's operating fine to me. But the clutch bearings sound like hell. Or the pump has some bearings that are screaming. You could try to replace the clutch, but I can't remember if you have to disconnect the AC pump to do that. When i did my AC, it was not working at all, so I replaced a lot of stuff like the pump and clutch all at once. But maybe you can change out the Clutch without discharging your AC system.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 04:57 PM
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depends on what the outside air temp was when it was cycling. if outside temps were 50-60 degrees, i would not worry about it. if temps were 80-90 degrees, i would say you are low on refrigerant.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 07:48 PM
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Basically, what's happening here is that the AC system has a low-pressure cutoff switch which turns off the compressor when the low side reaches 30 PSI.
While Tom may technically be correct, add a bit of refrigerant while watching the low side pressure; get it so that it stays above 30-ish while running constantly at idle; that'll get you started. If it still isn't cold enough, do the same thing while revving the engine up to 1600. Just be aware that you might end up with it working /too/ well and freezing up the cooling coils; you'll know when this happens because you'll lose most of your airflow with the fan on max.

Mind you, if you've still got R12 in the system, be aware: R12 has mineral oil for an oil; R134A uses something different(PAG or ester oil). You are /supposed/ to flush the system fully and not mix refrigerants.
R-12 to R-134A Refrigerant Retrofit - also a useful page, if taken with a grain of salt.
Also: Flammable Refrigerants
There may be R12-compatible options you can just add, though some may be somewhat flammable, so it's something to look around for if you can't find any R12 and don't want to spend the time and money converting to R134A.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 02:41 PM
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I install kits from 1-800-RADIATOR at least once per week, and have only had one come back in the last year. Get a complete kit to replace the compressor, orifice tube, and receiver/dryer, flush the condensor, evaporator and lines, and refill with PAG46 and 134a. I have the gauge kit and cheaper electric vacuum pump from Harbor Freight, they work well.
To have this kit installed in a shop would run about $800.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 06:15 PM
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if it has not been looked a tin years, it may just need 1 can of refrigerant. even if it still has R-12 in it, that should not cost more than $50 at a shop, or $10-15 if you do it yourself.
 
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