AC help
AC help
Ok got another issue that is bugging me, the AC stopped blowing ice cold air like it has in the past, and I checked the system (pressure and all) and its good at just over 35LBS (don't want to add more of the R134-A to it and over pressure the system) I tried to look for the pump and see if it was working or not but I can't find it (not sure what to look for honestly and my book doesn't say a lot about the AC system...) the blower works as air blows out of the vents, and the HVAC controls work fine as I turn on the heat and it blows hot air, and cools down (some) when I turn on the cold, max AC and normal AC still "work" just no cold air comes out (luke warm air).
all speed settings also work fine also, so what should I try to look at and do to correct this, were starting to hit the 70*+ days and its not fun...
all speed settings also work fine also, so what should I try to look at and do to correct this, were starting to hit the 70*+ days and its not fun...
this is a 5.0, my bad, forgot to mention that, was leaving for work when I posted this topic, will take a look tomorrow, what should I look at/for to see if thats the issue or not? I am pretty sure theres no leaks as the low end pressure is still ~36 LBS (give or take a pound or two)
EDIT: ok I figured out the clutch/compressor may be the issue, not sure exactly but gonna look into it any ways. gonna try to make it to the you pic it and see about getting one off another truck and get it working, at least for the summer
EDIT: ok I figured out the clutch/compressor may be the issue, not sure exactly but gonna look into it any ways. gonna try to make it to the you pic it and see about getting one off another truck and get it working, at least for the summer
Ok not sure if this will help any but I went out side (after letting the truck cool down for a few hours) and started it up with the AC on max and the fan control on hi and now the AC compressor/clutch acts like its trying to stay on, kicks on, stays on for a few seconds then stops, and then repeat...I also uploaded a vid showing its behavior in hopes this might help with figuring out whats going on...
I am planing on hitting the pull a part to get a replacement unit/clutch but don't want to just throw money at parts if they won't fix the issue (or possibly may not fix it), and yes once I get the money saved up I do plan to go buy a new one and put it in, but I just don't have the extra $200+ needed for it...right now so this is my next best option.
http://s854.photobucket.com/albums/a...0112193533.mp4
I am planing on hitting the pull a part to get a replacement unit/clutch but don't want to just throw money at parts if they won't fix the issue (or possibly may not fix it), and yes once I get the money saved up I do plan to go buy a new one and put it in, but I just don't have the extra $200+ needed for it...right now so this is my next best option.
http://s854.photobucket.com/albums/a...0112193533.mp4
I assume you watched the video? im not sure, I just know it will spin what Im assumeing is the clutch piece, if you haven't watched the vid I would suggest watching it as it shows exactly whats going on and would show a lot better then I could ever hope to explain in words honestly...but I assume by the spinning action of the piece with the three "bumps" as the engine runs the clutch is attempting to stay engaged or its trying to at least do so...
again not trying to be a you know what or nutin but I just feel the vid will show whats going on now a lot better then I could hope to explain in words if you watch it...
again not trying to be a you know what or nutin but I just feel the vid will show whats going on now a lot better then I could hope to explain in words if you watch it...
Sorry. Missed the vid the 1st go round. It looks like it is building pressure VERY quickly. TOO quickly. Like there is a blockage. I would be looking at the Orifice tube being blocked with trash
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ok before I dicked with the pressure gauge (sunday) the thing would NOT spin at all...so I assume thats at least a good sign right? and Brad im not 100% familiar with the AC system, I know enough to do basic repairs to the truck, where would the orface tube be located, if I can find that I would attempt to check for any type of trash or what ever.
I do know this is what i need to look for or something like this
I do know this is what i need to look for or something like this
The A/C compressor starts grenading its' self internally, etc...
And then when you look at the Orifice Tube, it's covered in "The Black Death" aka shavings, bits of seals, etc....Then it's time to replace it..
And for reference Jaime, that triangular piece of metal on the front of your compressor that kept spinning and stopping; That's your A/C clutch...
ok before I dicked with the pressure gauge (sunday) the thing would NOT spin at all...so I assume thats at least a good sign right? and Brad im not 100% familiar with the AC system, I know enough to do basic repairs to the truck, where would the orface tube be located, if I can find that I would attempt to check for any type of trash or what ever.
There ya go Jaime....
The Accumulator is next to the Blower Motor Housing...
Passenger Side, up next to the cowl...Can't miss it...
But in your case, I'd recommend maybe a shop repair...
I know, I know, you're a DIY guy, and that's fine...
But R-134a is NOT something to play with....Be it breathing it, or getting it on your skin.....At the very least, if you do DIY with this...MAKE SURE to wear rubber nitrile gloves.....Freon>Skin contact is NO BUENO!!
Plus, the shop will have it done, and overwith in no time....Not counting be safer (Via training) and be accordance with Federal Laws...
Jaime, it looks like you are either very low on refrigerant or the high pressure switch is cutting it off. I would vote for low. You can feel the switch click if you put your fingers on it while it cycles. The low pressure/cycling switch is on the accumulator, high pressure is on the compressor.
I don't know what kind of gauge set you have. On R134a systems the high side will run around 225psi and low should be around 30psi running. If the low pressure/cycling switch is the one that is cutting it off, you will have to recharge it, first i would look for signs of leakage, the charging ports are bad for that along with the springlock connection at the condensor right end (passenger side). 35 static sounds low, I think mine sits around 50-60 static depending on temperature.
If your compressor has grenaded you will need a compressor, condensor, orifice tube and accumulator, 94 up systems use the multi-pass condensor and it is not cleanable.
I don't know what kind of gauge set you have. On R134a systems the high side will run around 225psi and low should be around 30psi running. If the low pressure/cycling switch is the one that is cutting it off, you will have to recharge it, first i would look for signs of leakage, the charging ports are bad for that along with the springlock connection at the condensor right end (passenger side). 35 static sounds low, I think mine sits around 50-60 static depending on temperature.
If your compressor has grenaded you will need a compressor, condensor, orifice tube and accumulator, 94 up systems use the multi-pass condensor and it is not cleanable.
Last edited by 85lebaront2; May 2, 2012 at 10:31 AM. Reason: Additional information added.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...fice-tube.html
There ya go Jaime....
The Evaporator is next to the Blower Motor Housing...
Passenger Side, up next to the cowl...Can't miss it...
But in your case, I'd recommend maybe a shop repair...
I know, I know, you're a DIY guy, and that's fine...
But R-134a is NOT something to play with....Be it breathing it, or getting it on your skin.....At the very least, if you do DIY with this...MAKE SURE to wear rubber nitrile gloves.....Freon>Skin contact is NO BUENO!!
Plus, the shop will have it done, and overwith in no time....Not counting be safer (Via training) and be accordance with Federal Laws...
There ya go Jaime....
The Evaporator is next to the Blower Motor Housing...
Passenger Side, up next to the cowl...Can't miss it...
But in your case, I'd recommend maybe a shop repair...
I know, I know, you're a DIY guy, and that's fine...
But R-134a is NOT something to play with....Be it breathing it, or getting it on your skin.....At the very least, if you do DIY with this...MAKE SURE to wear rubber nitrile gloves.....Freon>Skin contact is NO BUENO!!
Plus, the shop will have it done, and overwith in no time....Not counting be safer (Via training) and be accordance with Federal Laws...
I agree and plan to have a shop do the work, I just want to figure whats going on so i can tell them whats up and what needs to be fixed and all that

That's actually a common issue Brad....
The A/C compressor starts grenading its' self internally, etc...
And then when you look at the Orifice Tube, it's covered in "The Black Death" aka shavings, bits of seals, etc....Then it's time to replace it..
And for reference Jaime, that triangular piece of metal on the front of your compressor that kept spinning and stopping; That's your A/C clutch...
The A/C compressor starts grenading its' self internally, etc...
And then when you look at the Orifice Tube, it's covered in "The Black Death" aka shavings, bits of seals, etc....Then it's time to replace it..
And for reference Jaime, that triangular piece of metal on the front of your compressor that kept spinning and stopping; That's your A/C clutch...
Jaime, it looks like you are either very low on refrigerant or the high pressure switch is cutting it off. I would vote for low. You can feel the switch click if you put your fingers on it while it cycles. The low pressure/cycling switch is on the accumulator, high pressure is on the compressor.
I don't know what kind of gauge set you have. On R134a systems the high side will run around 225psi and low should be around 30psi running. If the low pressure/cycling switch is the one that is cutting it off, you will have to recharge it, first i would look for signs of leakage, the charging ports are bad for that along with the springlock connection at the condensor right end (passenger side). 35 static sounds low, I think mine sits around 50-60 static depending on temperature.
If your compressor has grenaded you will need a compressor, condensor, orifice tube and accumulator, 94 up systems use the multi-pass condensor and it is not cleanable.
I don't know what kind of gauge set you have. On R134a systems the high side will run around 225psi and low should be around 30psi running. If the low pressure/cycling switch is the one that is cutting it off, you will have to recharge it, first i would look for signs of leakage, the charging ports are bad for that along with the springlock connection at the condensor right end (passenger side). 35 static sounds low, I think mine sits around 50-60 static depending on temperature.
If your compressor has grenaded you will need a compressor, condensor, orifice tube and accumulator, 94 up systems use the multi-pass condensor and it is not cleanable.
The man speaks truths...
I'm gonna bet the farm, that Jaime has one of those infernal gauges, that comes with a R-134a refill can...
The AC refrigerant NEEDS to be vaccumed out, and filtered (Via specialized machine)....It'll keep the freon from leaking into the air...
And then do any repair work...
Then use said machine to pull a 15-30 minute vaccum....If it passes that....Then refill the system...
The amount of refrigerant needed, is labeled on the Accumulator...It'll have a sticker that says Xlbs, Xoz of R-134a needed, etc, etc...
You can change the compressor, but you STILL have the small issue of letting all that Freon out, etc....
So I'd say let the shop handle it...










