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I use a handheld 5 lb mini sledgehammer for that kind of job, you need to use some force sometimes and beat on it hard - but I know how hard that can be given the limited access. Sometimes a combination of both works well, e.g. apply a puller device and pull from one side and then strike it with a sharp blow from the other side.
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I have broken a cheap, Chinese-made puller from Harbor Failure before (friend let me borrow his), ever since then I get paranoid at the quality of some of today's tools.
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It amazes me sometimes how businesses don't know how to accept people's money (or make change) when "the system is down." I saw something like that at Home Depot once, some central computer had crashed or sumthin' and absolutely no cashier knew how to accept cash, make change, and manually write a receipt. I left, I figured they don't deserve my money if they don't know how to accept it from me without a computer to help them.
I was using a 8 pound hammer and getting some pretty good blows from above though not perfectly straight down. I will try to find the puller somewhere and see if that works. I even tried to use a reciprocating saw to cut it an maybe release whatever was keeping it in there, but even with a metal blade it did not make a scratch.
I do not like buying from chains alone, let alone this AutoZone, but it is hard to find a mom and pop store with all the parts nowadays.
Another thing you can sometimes do is use a long (4' or so) pry bar, use one hand/arm to apply downward force and the other to strike from the top at the same time.
Also, if you are replacing the joint, you don't need to protect the end with a nut, just don't beat it up so bad you can't get it out of the arm.
Oh, c'mon, Festus! Doing it that way - without the castle nut installed upside down - is dangerous to do; he could decide it's too much work/doesn't have any more time/whatever and wants to put it back the way it was and try again later. But if he's destroyed the threads, that will be really hard to do.
Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
Harbor Failure puller ... lol!
Harbor Failure - The Home of Single-Use, Chinese-Made Tools.
Oh, c'mon, Festus! Doing it that way - without the castle nut installed upside down - is dangerous to do; he could decide it's too much work/doesn't have any more time/whatever and wants to put it back the way it was and try again later. But if he's destroyed the threads, that will be really hard to do.
Yup, I agree, it is a no backing out situation, I did say "if you are replacing the joint" for a reason ...
And yes, I should of included a warning ...
The thing is, shock is what will get it out, the nut absorbs shock!
Besides I have faith in him, so far he has accomplished some pretty heavy things for a novice!
He'll get it, he doesn't give up easy!
I use pickle forks on the joint ... A puller to pull the pitman off the gear box.
Originally Posted by ctubutis
Harbor Failure - The Home of Single-Use, Chinese-Made Tools.
Oh I knew what you meant ... I have a few Harbor Failure's in the scrap bin!
If you do not care about the rubber boot, a pickle fork will take it right off easily. $10 from Harbor Freight, they work fine. You don't pry with this thing, you hit on the end with a hammer and drive the wedge in to pop it loose.
Just gotta be careful when working around the pittman arm, and steering box. Too much banging and rattling "could" cause the lower seal in the steering box to start leaking.
Been there, done that, on a 79 F350.