How many of you installed the coolant filtration system on your 7.3. If so which one and do you feel it's necessary. I'm contemplating on installing one.

 

I believe it was from Dieselite? I did this 10 years ago. I have opened the filter and found some sand in maybe the first two changes. But very little, if any, after that. I change the filter annually.

 

Went with the International water pump with spin on filter. Needed a water pump any way and the additional expense was about the same as parts for a diy or kit. Tarm and then Nicmike did a good write up on the swap. Swapped to ELC at the same time. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-pump-3.html

At about 10K I cut my filter open expecting to find some sand or something and was pleased to find nothing, nada, zilch. Looking back I could have just done the ELC flush and change over.

To answer your last question unless you have an e99 and have to run SCA coolant, think you have a motor that sat a long time or have a cooling system that has been neglected I don't think you need one.

 

Same experience here, I had the Diesel Site kit and running the OE Ford gold coolant, no debris in two filter changes. Removed kit.

If you run the green coolant it's a great idea, but ELC or gold, not needed.

 

Just to clarify, coolant types or SCA's have NO affect on particles in your cooling system. Both are chemical and not particle (liquid/solid). The system is closed. Unless, of course you disregard the maintenance requirements or use water with high minerals, such as Tap. Although, a good maintenance program minimizes these contaminates.


I have changed many radiators to include both 6.0L and 6.4L which have sand type particles in them at the bottom you can run a finger through and remove some on the tip. Same for the EGR Coolers, and oil coolers.


Early "1999.5", Not "e99" Engines may use Heavy-Duty Extended Life Coolant (HD ELC) Built 2/2/99 and up, SN: 940614 and greater. Using ELC in an engine before this product data "can cause" premature Cup Seal Failure as well as Premature O-Ring Failure because of chemical incompatibility. How much does it shorten their life? I don't know. SN's can be found on the D/S Valve Cover and just above the Oil Cooler on the Block.

Pre-SN 940614 should use a conventional coolant with the addition of SCA (or a pre-charged conventional coolant already charged with SCA). meeting ASTM D4985.


Here is an explanation and information I found you may be interested in.


http://www.dieselsite.com/coolantfiltration.aspx


Also, remember this is a sales pitch as well as information when making your determination of weather or not one is necessary.

 

What I'm getting from this is if I do a periodic flush I should not need a filter. But if you have a filter do you need to flush at all?

I'm asking because I have a 2001 7.3 with 295000 I bought new. I have never flushed the system, I'm not having any issues but I'm thinking some maintenence is well over due. What in your opinion is the best antifreeze to use.

 

If you go with ELC and clean the system right before installing you shouldn't need to do anything for another 300K or longer

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...formation.html

 

As with most things, maintenance intervals are key to longevity. You should service the cooling system as described in your owners manual. Or, use Gooch's procedure which is well explained.


Flushing the system can be done with a quality RV Water Filter that removes minerals and chlorine for ease. Otherwise you'll want to use Distilled Water (which is very affordable).


Use Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant or equivalent.


You may wish to replace the Thermostat with the updated seal as well.


Remember, the Thermostat housings are thin and also often require replacement. But, can be obtained for a few dollars and replaced at the same time as the Thermostat for additional ease. The bolts just snug tight as they will strip easily.


Replace the Degass Bottle Cap as well. About $12


The Passengers Block Plug on the 01 can be difficult to remove. A swivel and extension with some patients may be required. The drivers side is easily accessible. Some loosen / remove the starter. But, not necessary with the correct tools.


An inexpensive kiddie pool from Walmart works good to capture old coolant for disposal.


All in all, its a couple hour job for a DIY'r.


Some other things you may wish to consider replacing is:

Thermostat (OEM Part #F6TZ-8575-EA)

Thermostat housing (OEM Part# F81Z-8592-AA)

Upper radiator hose that goes around serpentine belt (OEM Part# F81Z-8260-CA)

Lower Radiator hose (OEM Part# YC32-8286-CE)

Degas bottle cap (OEM Part# F6DZ-8100-A)


Most overlooked is the Engine Coolant Overflow Hose OEM: F81Z-8075-AA (Hose on bottom of 8A080 to Lower Radiator Tank)


Heater Hoses?

 

Wow thanks for the great info that's awesome!

 

If you're going to do all that, put a new degas bottle on it too. They look great when brand new, aren't very expensive, and can crack over time.

 

Aren't the new degas bottles all made in China now? I'm going run my original for as long as possible.

 

I have no idea. But, not EVERYTHING is a POS that is made in China. We have very large, very expensive machined parts and assemblies made in China at work. We then turn around and sell them to Samsung and others for a hell of a lot more $$$.

But, on a cheap degas bottle it's probably a POS.

 

A round trip to here and back across the Pacific? Crazy.

 

Already have the new degas bottle. I'm waiting on the fan clutch to come in so I can do it all at once.

 

I also have the DieselSite coolant filter I change the filter once a year I also get it flushed every 3 years for $80 it's not worth my time personally to flush it I also run RMI 25 in the coolant instead the ford additive 250k miles knock on wood no problems went through one water pump at 50k. I do like the international setup Diesel Site has though with filter on the pump might go to that option if I lose another pump.