4R100 shift issues, delayed hard shift 2-3
#1
4R100 shift issues, delayed hard shift 2-3
Hey everyone, need some help with my tranny issues, I have tried searching for a thread that talks about my issue but no luck so if you know of one please direct me there...
I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3l
brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
I live in an area that doesn't have much to offer as far as knowledgeable techs to ask info or advice from, not alone to take to for repair!!!
I am sorry for the book here, I wanted to make sure all info was supplied leading up to my problem !!
Thank you all in advance for any help or ideas I might try
I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3l
brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
I live in an area that doesn't have much to offer as far as knowledgeable techs to ask info or advice from, not alone to take to for repair!!!
I am sorry for the book here, I wanted to make sure all info was supplied leading up to my problem !!
Thank you all in advance for any help or ideas I might try
#2
That's a bit winded.
Do you have any codes?
I would not suspect the Control Module. However, perhaps a field sensor? Speed, etc.
I would suspect the accumulator. Specifically, the early gen has a bore Tech Service Bulletin requirement for the 2-3 up-shift which bores the 2-3 Accumulator for smooth movement as it binds in some instances.
Mark will be along shortly and address the issue.
Do you have any codes?
I would not suspect the Control Module. However, perhaps a field sensor? Speed, etc.
I would suspect the accumulator. Specifically, the early gen has a bore Tech Service Bulletin requirement for the 2-3 up-shift which bores the 2-3 Accumulator for smooth movement as it binds in some instances.
Mark will be along shortly and address the issue.
#3
My SWAG* is that you either have a problem in the direct clutch (How does reverse work?) or more likely a stuck 2-3 accumulator in the accumulator body. This is NOT the same body as the valve body. It's the smaller one at the front of the trans.
You might want to consider getting a way to read codes. I've heard AutoEnginuity can do it for about $400.
You might want to consider getting a way to read codes. I've heard AutoEnginuity can do it for about $400.
#4
#5
Get Forscan at www.forscan.org. Once you have it and the adapter to plug into the OBDII port, read the codes and post the code numbers here. Then we can help diagnose what's wrong.
The following users liked this post:
#7
Trending Topics
#8
None of those codes relate to a transmission problem.
My guess is that either you have loose feed bolts, or a damaged intermediate clutch. The feed bolts can be accessed by dropping the pan and removing the main valve body. If one or more is loose that can cause this problem. If they are tight I suspect a damaged clutch.
My guess is that either you have loose feed bolts, or a damaged intermediate clutch. The feed bolts can be accessed by dropping the pan and removing the main valve body. If one or more is loose that can cause this problem. If they are tight I suspect a damaged clutch.
#9
*Update* I lost touch of this post so I’m way late replying with an update.
I finally was able to fix the 2 stripped holes for the accumulator valve body recently and ruled that out. I even swapped in another accumulator body with no change.
so once I have time to pull the main valve body I will check the feed bolts. I would suspect those first before the int. clutch as this started after a complete rebuild. And I have since found out I can’t trust the guy who did the rebuild so I don’t doubt something was missed being torqued 🤦🏼♂️
thank you Mark and others for the info to try. It’s been 6 years almost and it’s time get it right😆😆
I finally was able to fix the 2 stripped holes for the accumulator valve body recently and ruled that out. I even swapped in another accumulator body with no change.
so once I have time to pull the main valve body I will check the feed bolts. I would suspect those first before the int. clutch as this started after a complete rebuild. And I have since found out I can’t trust the guy who did the rebuild so I don’t doubt something was missed being torqued 🤦🏼♂️
thank you Mark and others for the info to try. It’s been 6 years almost and it’s time get it right😆😆
#10
The following users liked this post:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mikej916
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
9
10-29-2017 01:32 PM
rlhtrans
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
3
07-29-2012 05:18 PM
bustech81
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
2
04-08-2011 12:31 PM
superswamper
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
2
04-25-2003 06:54 PM
mchild
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
5
03-31-2003 02:16 PM