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Hard 2-3 Shift

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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 12:52 AM
  #1  
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Hard 2-3 Shift

Hi Friends!

My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.

I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.

When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.

Can somebody with trans experience weigh in on this please? TIA.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 08:13 AM
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Is there any problem with the reverse engagement?

When you do the drain and fill are you also draining the torque converter?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 11:07 PM
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There is no issues with reverse and I have not done a complete fluid drain involving the TC. I just pulled the trans pan plug, drained and refilled. Should I do a complete fluid drain and fill?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 08:03 AM
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Why would you only drain the pan when half of the fluid is in the torque converter? Cleaning the pan and changing the filter are a waste in my opinion, but to each his own.

What does the fluid look and smell like now? Red, pink, brown, or black? Oily smell, or does it have a burnt smell. I suspect a damaged direct clutch.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 09:25 AM
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only drained the pan before because being a newb I had not learned about the TC plug at the time and came across that bit of info later.

Talk to me about this direct clutch. Would I have to drop the trans for replacement? Should I take it to be scanned for codes?

I will check the fluid color/smell when I get home.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 09:26 AM
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You should get it scanned for codes. The places that read codes free can't read the codes you need.

To replace the direct clutch the trans has to come out and get rebuilt.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
You should get it scanned for codes. The places that read codes free can't read the codes you need.

To replace the direct clutch the trans has to come out and get rebuilt.
Just to make sure I understand you correctly, you are saying the whole transmission needs to be removed? Direct clutch is for the 3rd gear and if it is sticking should't I be able to remove just the accumulator and replace the springs?

I really appreciate your help Mark. I am a mechanically inclined newb who isn't afraid of tackling anything if I know what I am getting into.

I came across this video while researching:

 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 12:10 PM
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If the problem is a sticking accumulator you can remove the pan, remove the accumulator body, and fix it.

My educated guess is that the direct clutch itself has a problem. If you can get that clutch out without removing the transmission from the truck you're a world class magician.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 02:52 PM
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Took the rig into the local dealer today. They scoped it and scanned for codes. They think the valve body is suspect. Possibly a shift kit was installed. Quoted me $500 to pull oit the valve body and check it out.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 09:14 PM
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I'm gonna be following along in what you find. My 2000 EX does the exact same thing. Has been doing it for the past year we have owned it and it only has 157,000 miles on it.
 
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