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Old May 29, 2016 | 05:17 PM
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General Discussion & Quick Question Thread

I hate starting a thread to ask a question that can be answered in 1-2 posts. I also don't want to highjack a thread that has info "close" to what I need, but one branch over. I also sometimes want to say and hear about stuff that isnt thread worthy.

Anyway, feel free to use this thread as a crap catcher and I whatchamacallit.
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 05:24 PM
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Ok, obviously this is not correct.

Does the radiator slip down through the radiator support bracket?

Are there supposed to be speed nuts on the front of the radiator bracket, And on the back of the core support?

The previous owner has the front of the radiator bolted to the back of the support.

I am not grasping the concept, because I have speed nuts inserted only for the condenser that I remove.

Thanks


ETA: Got 'er figured out.
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 05:40 PM
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Heres another one. I rebuilt my Motorcraft 2100 1.21 carb yesterday. I noticed that my autochoke is missing the choke piston. I cant find anything online about replacing it, so am thinking about going electric. Is this the one that I want?

Motorcraft 2 & 4 Barrel Electric Choke Thermostat | carburetor-parts
 
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Old May 29, 2016 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
Heres another one. I rebuilt my Motorcraft 2100 1.21 carb yesterday. I noticed that my autochoke is missing the choke piston. I cant find anything online about replacing it, so am thinking about going electric. Is this the one that I want?

Motorcraft 2 & 4 Barrel Electric Choke Thermostat | carburetor-parts
Choke piston is basic part number 9840 .. None listed for your application.
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 12:05 AM
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Thank you, Mr. ND, then I can stop looking!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 07:35 PM
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I am looking at some M/T valve covers that are listed as coming off a Ford 352. Those will fit on an FE 360, right? And looking at them, the holes for breather and pcv are opposite what I have now, is there a reason? Is it just simply deciding to fill oil in the back of the drivers side, or front on the passenger side?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
I am looking at some M/T valve covers that are listed as coming off a Ford 352. Those will fit on an FE 360, right?

And looking at them, the holes for breather and pcv are opposite what I have now, is there a reason? Is it just simply deciding to fill oil in the back of the drivers side, or front on the passenger side?
352: 1958/60 Thunderbird; 1958/67 Ford; 1960 Edsel; 1965/67 F100/350.

ALL FE engines have 5 valve cover bolts per side. Genuine Ford: There's no right or left, both covers are the same.

But, 1958/64 car FE valve covers have no holes for smog valve/oil cap, there's an oil fill tube on the right (passenger) side. Smog valve threads into the intake manifold.

1965/76: Smog valve located on rear of passenger side, oil cap located on front of drivers side.

Make sure the M/T covers don't interfere with the master cylinder.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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Thank you, Mr. ND. I learn more info from you than I knew I needed.

In an effort to not waste the guy's time, I tried to research it before I contacted him. He sold them, and hasn't deleted his posting.

But, I learned something for the next time!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 11:00 PM
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Well, I don't think I can buff this one out.



Guess I am going to learn how to rebuild an FE engine...

Any creative ideas on how to pull this without a cherry picker? I live in an apartment, lol.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
Well, I don't think I can buff this one out.



Guess I am going to learn how to rebuild an FE engine...

Any creative ideas on how to pull this without a cherry picker? I live in an apartment, lol.
Pull the entire truck apart from around it.

You need a hoist....
 
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 11:47 PM
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Any ideas what caused this? I didnt see any parts or pieces when I took the head off. It looks corroded?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
Any ideas what caused this? I didnt see any parts or pieces when I took the head off. It looks corroded?
Poor metallurgy and/or lean AFR.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 12:35 AM
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That one (#3) I was at 80 on a compression test. The lifters were seized up, come to think of it.

The others are pretty carbonized but look fine.

While I have it open, I measured the stroke, 3 7/8ish. So I bought a 302, vin said 360, turns out 390.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 09:40 AM
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Like most all Apt. complexes the management frown on any tinkering with a vehicles cause some others have made a big mess and did not clean that up.

So it's pretty standard every where now days with No working on any vehicles in the parking stalls or area on property.

I'd say unless you have a buddy or girl friend who is willing to let you make a mess doing an engine rebuilt your kind of screwed to only doing street repairs. But if the code enforcement is called you may end up having it towed and never seen again..
Orich
 
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 11:43 AM
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I agree.

The truck was $1000, and maybe worth that with the engine running. It is not worth rebuilding the engine and putting it back in.

I definitely cant keep it where it is if it is not moveable. If I did get the block out and take it to a machine shop, I am into it $750-$1000 just to get it back to driveable.

I think I am going to accept the loss and call a salvage yard.
 
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