Timing issue i think?
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Timing issue i think?
Hey guys i have searches and asked around and no one knows lol i have a 70 f100 with a fresh 360fe I have the distributor all the way to where the vacuum is pointed towards the passenger side and when I timing light it my Mark is all the way to the left and it runs perfectly fine but then I turn it the other way my Mark starts to line up with the pointer then starts to run like crap and dies and won't start I'm highly confused
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
It helps to have everything installed according to Hoyle as you've discovered. Make sure the vacuum advance hose is disconnected and plugged when setting timing. Keep the idle to around 550 or lower.
BUT, If the wires/distributor aren't clocked as from factory but you still use the #1 plug wire for the light, then naturally the damper indications will be completely horked. TDC on the damper only corresponds to the #1 piston on the compression stroke.
The distributor doesn't really care as far as running, but you have to make allowances for this if the distributor is just stabbed in there any ole' way. You could use a vacuum gauge and time for maximum vacuum for now, to work around this. Or just stab the distributor correctly and install the wires right.
Alternatively you could slowly advance the timing till the engine starts to "wander" or "hunt", then back off (retard) the timing till it runs smooth. This will be very close to optimum - "one potato two potato" and lock the distributor hold down tight. Check for ping on acceleration, and back off more if necessary.
BUT, If the wires/distributor aren't clocked as from factory but you still use the #1 plug wire for the light, then naturally the damper indications will be completely horked. TDC on the damper only corresponds to the #1 piston on the compression stroke.
The distributor doesn't really care as far as running, but you have to make allowances for this if the distributor is just stabbed in there any ole' way. You could use a vacuum gauge and time for maximum vacuum for now, to work around this. Or just stab the distributor correctly and install the wires right.
Alternatively you could slowly advance the timing till the engine starts to "wander" or "hunt", then back off (retard) the timing till it runs smooth. This will be very close to optimum - "one potato two potato" and lock the distributor hold down tight. Check for ping on acceleration, and back off more if necessary.
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Yeah I completely rebuilt the engine from bare block to complete and I put the timeing markes in line with each other durring install with number one all the way up and then stabbed the distributer with the piston at tdc
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
... On the compression stroke? Remember there are two TDCs' for a four cycle engine. This is a common error, and is known as "180 degrees out". Tough to know what's going on without being there but this is a common source of WTFery.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Rotate engine manually #1 plug removed w/ thumb over hole. Compression will force it away. Then carefully line up the "0" mark or pointer with TDC. Observe where the rotor now points. #1 as marked on cap? That's your #1 wire terminal, if not, you'll have to restab the distributor.
If you want everything to line up factory and you have to re-stab distributor, make sure it's all set up with the body and rotor. The rotor should end up at the location of the #1 plug wire terminal of the distributor cap. Give it a little lead windage, to account for the helical nature of the gear.
Incidentally all of this working correctly assumes that the steel damper outer ring has not slipped, as somebody already mentioned. There are quite a few different ways to get turned around on a distributor to the unawares. It used to be a favorite final exam test of Auto Shop teachers lol.
If you want everything to line up factory and you have to re-stab distributor, make sure it's all set up with the body and rotor. The rotor should end up at the location of the #1 plug wire terminal of the distributor cap. Give it a little lead windage, to account for the helical nature of the gear.
Incidentally all of this working correctly assumes that the steel damper outer ring has not slipped, as somebody already mentioned. There are quite a few different ways to get turned around on a distributor to the unawares. It used to be a favorite final exam test of Auto Shop teachers lol.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Gainesville, GA
There are a couple of ways to find TDC. Tedster told you one way and another way is to use a dial indicator in the spark plug hole. The valves on #1 are closed at TDC. Another way is to use a positive stop. I fastened a bolt in an old spark plug. Turn the engine one way to the stop and mark the dampener, then turn the engine the other way to the stop and mark it again. Halfway in between the marks is TDC. Again the valves both have to be closed. You have to be very careful with your long breaker bar or ratchet not to damage the piston.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
The way the distributors fire juice to it's #1 plug in the dizzy can be a bit misunderstood the way it works.
When the Points fire is when they "open" not when they close as the way many guys think it is.
So when setting up the dizzy it will always have to be turned too far to the left for advancing it to try correcting the timing.
Or they'll need to restab the dizzy and move it over one tooth over to correct this off set condition dizzy.
Orich
When the Points fire is when they "open" not when they close as the way many guys think it is.
So when setting up the dizzy it will always have to be turned too far to the left for advancing it to try correcting the timing.
Or they'll need to restab the dizzy and move it over one tooth over to correct this off set condition dizzy.
Orich
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