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I lube the oring on the filter itself and push it into the HFCM till seated then screw the cap on
That cap Flat Lip needs to seat against the housing
Either way Filter pushed into cap or filter installed into HFCM first then cap it should be Fine cap lip should seat and shouldn't take to much torq to get it there
On my truck the cap or housing seems to be tapered, it spins easy at first and gets pretty snug (hard to turn) by the time it's close to bottoming out.
right I have to use a rachet to especialy when the big cap oring makes contact with the house
Hell I break it loose with an Impact gun HAHA
its on there
guess Im just saying its plastic so He shouldn't need Impact force to install I was worried to the first time I did it didn't want to break the cap either
I must be doing something wrong.
The transfer case skid plate is on the truck and I don't end up with
a diesel bath when I change the filter. I do use a long 1/2" extension
so I can reach from back of the skid plate. Also I do drain the water
separator first and I use a funnel into a bucket for that.
I also find that it does not take a lot of force to remove the cap or to
place it back on. I also oil both the inner O-ring and the cap O-ring.
The filter gets snapped into the cap and I go slowly when screwing it
back in. One little trick I have learned over the years when it comes to
plastic threads is to push the parts together while turning like I am undoing
the fittings till I hear and feel the threads line up then I start to run it in.
Also while you have the filter out that is a good time to clean any grit from
the cap and the top end of the threaded end of the housing.
The same goes for the top side filter. Get the threads in alignment and then
turn it in. The trick with trying to unscrew helps to keep from cross threading.
Give it a try with a nut and bolt some time.
That's a good review. I never got a bath from the filter change, it was always the monthly water drain. Even with the notched out 2 liter soda or milk bottle you chanced O De La Diesel for the rest of the day.
That's a good review. I never got a bath from the filter change, it was always the monthly water drain. Even with the notched out 2 liter soda or milk bottle you chanced O De La Diesel for the rest of the day.
You mean before you moved it to the: "it's just cheating to have the HFCM relocated here position", right?!
I must be doing something wrong.
The transfer case skid plate is on the truck and I don't end up with
a diesel bath when I change the filter. I do use a long 1/2" extension
so I can reach from back of the skid plate. Also I do drain the water
separator first and I use a funnel into a bucket for that.
I also find that it does not take a lot of force to remove the cap or to
place it back on. I also oil both the inner O-ring and the cap O-ring.
The filter gets snapped into the cap and I go slowly when screwing it
back in. One little trick I have learned over the years when it comes to
plastic threads is to push the parts together while turning like I am undoing
the fittings till I hear and feel the threads line up then I start to run it in.
Also while you have the filter out that is a good time to clean any grit from
the cap and the top end of the threaded end of the housing.
The same goes for the top side filter. Get the threads in alignment and then
turn it in. The trick with trying to unscrew helps to keep from cross threading.
Give it a try with a nut and bolt some time.
Nailed it! That is pretty much the same way I do mine. Except I use a bulk size plastic coffee can. It's got handles
I think the worst case scenario is get a little to run down your arm.
Well sometimes I just let it drain into the large pan on the ground.
The trick with 4WD is to get one of the rectangle shaped funnels.
You wedge it between the front drive shaft and the frame and anything
that drains out goes into the funnel and down to the pan or bottle.
