I have an AOD transmission, and I have a fitech efi unit. Only issue is no tv corrector brackets will work with my linkage arm. I have the lokar tv/throttle bracket. I also have the lokar "kickdown" cable (I know it is a T.V cable).

I have heard I do not need the corrector bracket
I have heard I need it

what do I do?

 

If you don't connect the TV cable and properly adjust the TV you'll destroy the trans, usually in the first 10 miles.

 

Its the tv corector arm not needed if I have a lokar cable and set the adjustment by a gauge?

 

That depends on what the geometry of the throttle arm on Fitech EFI unit is.

The TV cable has to connect to the throttle arm of the throttle body (or carburetor) in order to work with the AOD transmission. Because aftermarket carburetors and throttle bodies don't have symmetrical throttle arms, some of the bigger names like Holley and Edelbrock make a geometry corrector bracket that bolts to the throttle lever. This bracket re-locates the stud location for the TV cable grommet so that the the AOD will be in sync with the throttle lever.

Think of the TV cable as a mechanical throttle position sensor. The AOD transmission ramps up internal pressure to engage the clutch packs and schedules its shift points based on throttle position. As the throttle arm of the throttle lever is rotated, the throttle valve inside the AOD is pulled. The further the throttle lever is rotated, the more the throttle valve is pulled. This way, the AOD has lower pressure at idle and part throttle for smooth shifts and closer shift points, and higher pressure at wide open throttle to deliver faster, firmer shifts and spaced out shift points for better performance.

When the TV pressure is set right, the AOD is a great transmission that delivers great mileage and better performance than the older C4 and c6 transmissions that relied on engine vacuum. The trouble starts when something is changed or modified to upset the relationship between the AOD and the throttle body. The factory engineered the throttle body and the AOD to work together. If the geometry from the throttle body is different from stock, the throttle valve inside the AOD is not going to be in sync. If the geometry isn't correct, two scenarios can happen:

I. - At idle, you connect the TV cable to the throttle lever. In the idle position, you set the TV pressure to spec. The problem here is that the TV pressure is correct ONLY at idle. As you rotate the throttle lever, the pressure doesn't "ramp up" correctly because the geometry is off. When this happens, the TV pressure ramps up too high too quick. The result is harsh shifts that are spaced too far apart and you may not even be able to engage the overdrive band. The cable ends up being too short, and the TV cable physically stops the throttle lever from reaching wide open throttle. If you try and force it, the TV cable gets pulled out of adjustment and then you are back to square one.

II. - With the engine off, you rotate the throttle lever to wide open throttle, and you connect the TV cable to the throttle lever. This way, you have full TV pressure at wide open throttle. The problem here is that the TV pressure is correct ONLY at wide open throttle. The cable ends up being too long, and the TV cable is now too loose at idle. Then, when you take off from an idle position, the TV cable isn't being pulled soon enough, and neither is the throttle valve inside the AOD. When this happens, the TV pressure is too low and it ramps up too slow. The result is lazy, sloppy shifts and the shift points will come way too early and often "stack" on top of one another. This condition will heat up the clutches, and burn up the transmission in just a few miles. Then you will need a complete rebuild.

When the geometry is correct, the cable has a just little tension at idle, and then a fully pulled, tight TV cable at wide open throttle. When this happens, the throttle valve is pulled in sync with the rotation of the throttle lever. The TV pressure ramps up correctly throughout the entire range of the throttle position.

Capiche?

Read this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...th-an-aod.html

 

Thanks Lariat. Makes more sense now.

lokar said I did not have to run one but I still dont trust not running one.


LOKAR: "The Quickfuel and Holley have the same geometry for the tv cable. You only require a corrector if you are using a factory cable or someone that has not fixed the geometry at the transmission. Our cable does not require an adapter for the TV cable. You will install the inner wire in the hole on our TV arm furthest away from center and hook the other end directly to the carb."

"We have fixed the geometry on the transmission end and this stops you from having to run a corrector on the carb."

 

Hey Montync how did the FiTech work with your AOD? I'm looking to do the same install on my F100 with 351w and AOD. I would like to hear any reviews you have with it.
Thanks
Kenny

 

It works with it. No geomtry/tv corrector bracket needed. I did have to buy a aluminum throttle bracket and a lokar adapter to run both the throttle and tv cable. The bracket that comes with lokar to run both throttle and tv will slide around on the base when you give it gas, no matter how tight the set screw is. I lubed the cables with graphite. My stock accelerator cable kept binding so I switched to a floor mount gas pedal. The retun springs on the fitech throttle shaft are a little stiffer than carbs.