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I have an '86 150 with the AOD trans that has been converted from EFI to a carb setup. Now I know the kickdown cables are a pain to deal with and I am trying to decide what to do. One route is to buy a Lokar kit for this truck with the fittings to hookup my throttle, kickdown cable, and cruise control. That sounds nice but I know those are expensive. I however am curious if I can still use the factory cable? I already have a bracket that the square fitting on the cable liner can lock into at the intake, and I have the fitting for the line to fit on the throttle of the carb. If this can hookup correctly, can I do this? I will be using the correct adjustments to make sure the cable has the right pressure.
what brand carb are you using? it has been a while but it seems if I remember right a Holley needs another bracket on it for AOD trans because the way the linkage works it doesn't give the proper swing for the trans cable. Again its been a while so going off memory. If its a Edelbrock then all is good as I have done this before. I have always adjusted them with throttle wide open and cable pulled fully out and secured everything at that point. I have yet to burn up a trans yet. I have a 5.0 AOD in a 85 Ranger that's been trucking for close to 10 years now and not a problem one.
what brand carb are you using? it has been a while but it seems if I remember right a Holley needs another bracket on it for AOD trans because the way the linkage works it doesn't give the proper swing for the trans cable. Again its been a while so going off memory. If its a Edelbrock then all is good as I have done this before. I have always adjusted them with throttle wide open and cable pulled fully out and secured everything at that point. I have yet to burn up a trans yet. I have a 5.0 AOD in a 85 Ranger that's been trucking for close to 10 years now and not a problem one.
I am using a Holley carb that has the extra bracket for the AOD hookup. I think the only thing that is causing me a little bit of fuss right now is the fact that the factory cable is a little long due to it hooking up closer to the front of the engine bay on the throttle body in the previous configuration from the factory. If the cable does have the stop on the end that is adjustable, as it should, I can cut the cable shorter if I have to and still adjust it to the correct pressure.
As long as you have the correct geometry and can maintain the correct throttle valve pressure at idle AND at wide open throttle, the stock Ford AOD cable should work fine.
Without the Holley corrector bracket in place, the geometry will not be compatible with the AOD throttle valve. In other words, the pull of the TV cable will be impossible to set correctly. What will happen is that you will be able to set the pressure correctly at idle or wide open throttle, but not both.
As long as you have the correct geometry and can maintain the correct throttle valve pressure at idle AND at wide open throttle, the stock Ford AOD cable should work fine.
Without the Holley corrector bracket in place, the geometry will not be compatible with the AOD throttle valve. In other words, the pull of the TV cable will be impossible to set correctly. What will happen is that you will be able to set the pressure correctly at idle or wide open throttle, but not both.
I have the bracket as I said, but I am confused about something. For instance, Sonnax provides a spring to put between the end stop and the connector of the cable onto the carb. However, Lokar doesn't utilize that spring. I know Sonnax claims this spring keeps the cable from going out of adjustment towards WOT. But I know with using the gauge to get appropriate pressure, it goes where that spring should be according to Sonnax. Any thoughts?
what brand carb are you using? it has been a while but it seems if I remember right a Holley needs another bracket on it for AOD trans because the way the linkage works it doesn't give the proper swing for the trans cable. Again its been a while so going off memory. If its a Edelbrock then all is good as I have done this before. I have always adjusted them with throttle wide open and cable pulled fully out and secured everything at that point. I have yet to burn up a trans yet. I have a 5.0 AOD in a 85 Ranger that's been trucking for close to 10 years now and not a problem one.
Sorry I looked over part of your response. So how you have adjusted these before is just holding WOT and pulling the tv cable until it stops, then locking the cable adjuster down to hold it there?
I have the bracket as I said, but I am confused about something. For instance, Sonnax provides a spring to put between the end stop and the connector of the cable onto the carb. However, Lokar doesn't utilize that spring. I know Sonnax claims this spring keeps the cable from going out of adjustment towards WOT. But I know with using the gauge to get appropriate pressure, it goes where that spring should be according to Sonnax. Any thoughts?
The [newer] Lokar TV cable kits don't need that spring nor the corrector bracket, because they supply a modified TV lever to replace the stock one on the transmission end in order to correct the geometry problem.
If you are going to use the stock Ford TV cable and the stock AOD transmission, you need a geometry corrector bracket to correct the geometry on the carburetor end.
This is what the geometry corrector brackets look like:
The bracket on the left is made for an Edlebrock carburetor. The bracket on the right is made for a Holley carburetor. Since the throttle levers are different, a different style of geometry corrector bracket is used for a Holley and a different one is used for an Edelbrock. This is what was sold a few years ago, and none of them came with a spring.
Now, most of them look like the one on the left, and come with a spring. If you have a Holley, you need the spring. If you have an Edlebrock, you don't. I suspect this was done for economic reasons.
The bracket on the left corrects the problem completely on an Edlebrock, but not on a Holley. If you use the bracket on the left but don't use the little spring on a Holley carburetor, the TV cable ends up being too short if you set the TV pressure at idle. The result is the cable runs out of length before wide open throttle. When this occurs, either the TV cable will physically stop the throttle lever on the carburetor from reaching full throttle, or a wide open throttle will physically pull the TV cable out of adjustment. So the spring is needed to gain the extra travel needed on the Holley carburetor.
Originally Posted by Mutilator712
So how you have adjusted these before is just holding WOT and pulling the tv cable until it stops, then locking the cable adjuster down to hold it there?
This method will work ONLY if the geometry is correct. If it is not, the TV pressure will be correct *only* at wide open throttle, and incorrect everywhere else.
Capiche?
For a better understanding of the importance of maintaining the correct geometry on an AOD, watch the video on page 2 of the link below:
The [newer] Lokar TV cable kits don't need that spring nor the corrector bracket, because they supply a modified TV lever to replace the stock one on the transmission end in order to correct the geometry problem.
If you are going to use the stock Ford TV cable and the stock AOD transmission, you need a geometry corrector bracket to correct the geometry on the carburetor end.
This what the geometry corrector brackets look like:
The bracket on the left is made for an Edlebrock carburetor. The bracket on the right is made for a Holley carburetor. Since the throttle levers are different, a different style of geometry corrector bracket is used for a Holley and a different one is used for an Edelbrock. This is what was sold a few years ago, and none of them came with a spring.
Now, most of them look like the one on the left, and come with a spring. If you have a Holley, you need the spring. If you have an Edlebrock, you don't. I suspect this was done for economic reasons.
The bracket on the left corrects the problem completely on an Edlebrock, but not on a Holley. If you use the bracket on the left but don't use the little spring on a Holley carburetor, the TV cable ends up being too short if you set the TV pressure at idle. The result is the cable runs out of length before wide open throttle. When this occurs, either the TV cable will physically stop the throttle lever on the carburetor from reaching full throttle, or a wide open throttle will physically pull the TV cable out of adjustment. So the spring is needed to gain the extra travel needed on the Holley carburetor.
This method will work ONLY if the geometry is correct. If it is not, the TV pressure will be correct *only* at wide open throttle, and incorrect everywhere else.
Capiche?
For a better understanding of the importance of maintaining the correct geometry on an AOD, watch the video on page 2 of the link below:
Okay yes I see what you mean. The kit has directions that came with it that basically say set the cable at full length at WOT then confirm that from idle to WOT the TV cable is moving 1.48 inches. It claims this will be the correct geometry for 1:1 if the cable has this much travel. Does that sound adequate?
Okay yes I see what you mean. The kit has directions that came with it that basically say set the cable at full length at WOT then confirm that from idle to WOT the TV cable is moving 1.48 inches. It claims this will be the correct geometry for 1:1 if the cable has this much travel. Does that sound adequate?
Yes, that sounds correct.
Watch the video I linked earlier and it will you show you other ways the geometry can be compromised.
10-11-2016, 10:31 PM
