how to remove a flexplate
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: surrey
how to remove a flexplate
The flex plate on my 390 is pressure fitted to the crank, I have removed all bolts and am puzzled as how to get it off with out bending it.
Prying it off is not going to work.
I so far have putt a bolt in the back of the block where the tranny bolted into, and pounded a wood wedge between the flex plate teeth and the bolt. I was hoping that this would hold the flex plate while I hand spun the motor and that the flex plate would twist off, no such luck.
anyone have an idea.
Thanks
Prying it off is not going to work.
I so far have putt a bolt in the back of the block where the tranny bolted into, and pounded a wood wedge between the flex plate teeth and the bolt. I was hoping that this would hold the flex plate while I hand spun the motor and that the flex plate would twist off, no such luck.
anyone have an idea.
Thanks
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 139
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From: surrey
well going to give it another go this weekend. after several applications of wd 40.
I was thinking about the torch idea, but I'm wondering if the heat is expanding the flex plate would it also by expanding make the hole tighter as well as the outside dimensions larger.
I have all weekend can try that heat idea as well as any other thing I can think of.
thanks
I was thinking about the torch idea, but I'm wondering if the heat is expanding the flex plate would it also by expanding make the hole tighter as well as the outside dimensions larger.
I have all weekend can try that heat idea as well as any other thing I can think of.
thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Flex plates aren't pressed on, my suspicion would be corrosion also.
You might try soaking the hub with PB Blaster or WD-40 penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. Then take a good sized chisel, line up the chisel with one of the teeth on the ring gear and hit it with a hammer, like you're trying to turn the engine over. Maybe the shock value will be enough to get the flex plate to turn and break the bond between the flex plate and crank flange.
You might try soaking the hub with PB Blaster or WD-40 penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. Then take a good sized chisel, line up the chisel with one of the teeth on the ring gear and hit it with a hammer, like you're trying to turn the engine over. Maybe the shock value will be enough to get the flex plate to turn and break the bond between the flex plate and crank flange.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Flex plates aren't pressed on, my suspicion would be corrosion also.
You might try soaking the hub with PB Blaster or WD-40 penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. Then take a good sized chisel, line up the chisel with one of the teeth on the ring gear and hit it with a hammer, like you're trying to turn the engine over. Maybe the shock value will be enough to get the flex plate to turn and break the bond between the flex plate and crank flange.
You might try soaking the hub with PB Blaster or WD-40 penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. Then take a good sized chisel, line up the chisel with one of the teeth on the ring gear and hit it with a hammer, like you're trying to turn the engine over. Maybe the shock value will be enough to get the flex plate to turn and break the bond between the flex plate and crank flange.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
When heating up two objects, where one is on the outside and one on the inside, even a pressed fit between the same materials, heat will expand the outer one slightly more than the inner letting it get loose.
The real value in the heat is to break the corrosion.
Also, side note: WD40 is not a "pentrating oil" - I've never ever had good luck with WD40 and really corroded stuff.
The best is Gibb's oil, which is basically ATF and isopropyl alcohol. Finding 100% isopropyl is tough though
Kroil, or Liquid Wrench even, definitely better than using WD40. There is a "WD40" brand penetrating oil, though, haven't used that, but the regular old classic WD40 is not a good rust breaker/penetrant.
The real value in the heat is to break the corrosion.
Also, side note: WD40 is not a "pentrating oil" - I've never ever had good luck with WD40 and really corroded stuff.
The best is Gibb's oil, which is basically ATF and isopropyl alcohol. Finding 100% isopropyl is tough though
Kroil, or Liquid Wrench even, definitely better than using WD40. There is a "WD40" brand penetrating oil, though, haven't used that, but the regular old classic WD40 is not a good rust breaker/penetrant.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 139
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From: surrey
Thanks all for the advice. Today is my chance to get at the problem. I didn't think flex plates were factory pressed on, the bolts sucked it tight, and with what I figured to be that the flex plate hole has that "flare" along the edge that centers it. has made it tight when installed.
I have already taken the heads off so there is not any compression, so it would have to be a sudden blow.
I have already taken the heads off so there is not any compression, so it would have to be a sudden blow.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 139
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From: surrey
When heating up two objects, where one is on the outside and one on the inside, even a pressed fit between the same materials, heat will expand the outer one slightly more than the inner letting it get loose.
That info helps thanks
The real value in the heat is to break the corrosion.
Also, side note: WD40 is not a "pentrating oil" - I've never ever had good luck with WD40 and really corroded stuff.
The best is Gibb's oil, which is basically ATF and isopropyl alcohol. Finding 100% isopropyl is tough though
"It gets drunk around here really fast.
Kroil, or Liquid Wrench even, definitely better than using WD40. There is a "WD40" brand penetrating oil, though, haven't used that, but the regular old classic WD40 is not a good rust breaker/penetrant.
That info helps thanks
The real value in the heat is to break the corrosion.
Also, side note: WD40 is not a "pentrating oil" - I've never ever had good luck with WD40 and really corroded stuff.
The best is Gibb's oil, which is basically ATF and isopropyl alcohol. Finding 100% isopropyl is tough though
"It gets drunk around here really fast.
Kroil, or Liquid Wrench even, definitely better than using WD40. There is a "WD40" brand penetrating oil, though, haven't used that, but the regular old classic WD40 is not a good rust breaker/penetrant.
Been using wd40 as a lube and in a pinch as a cutting oil and a penetrating oil.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: surrey
Flex plates aren't pressed on, my suspicion would be corrosion also.
You might try soaking the hub with PB Blaster or WD-40 penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. Then take a good sized chisel, line up the chisel with one of the teeth on the ring gear and hit it with a hammer, like you're trying to turn the engine over. Maybe the shock value will be enough to get the flex plate to turn and break the bond between the flex plate and crank flange.
You might try soaking the hub with PB Blaster or WD-40 penetrating oil and let it soak overnight. Then take a good sized chisel, line up the chisel with one of the teeth on the ring gear and hit it with a hammer, like you're trying to turn the engine over. Maybe the shock value will be enough to get the flex plate to turn and break the bond between the flex plate and crank flange.
with the comments and sujestions I kind of figured that was what was needed, I was going to clamp a pair of vice grips and strike that, but I think a sharp blow with a chisel might be the better idea.
Thanks
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