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Hi folks new to the audio car scene (I think that is what its called?) anyways I just recently installed a Kenwood DPX501BT in the mustang, and a Dual XR4120 into the Truck (won't be the final piece that goes in, its just a stand in so I can have my music and get the one I really want) I have a good grasp of the whole electronics deal as far as the installing the parts them selves, however what I want help is understanding the whole watts RMS stuff, let me explain and using the system that I am installing in the truck show what I UNDERSTAND, so I can at least get pointed on the correct track (in case I am going about this wrong which could be likely)
anyways here goes...
Head unit = 240
Speakers = 160 (per set as indicated on the box) X2
So if we take both sets of speakers and put them together that would be a total of 320 Watts which is 80 over the 240 that my head unit can put out. So if I am looking at the numbers properly that means I am short 80 watts and need to make that up some way??
here is the equasion I used to figure all the numbers
160 +160 = 320 - 240 = 80
anyways am going about this wrong or what? anyways would love to get some help with this so I can gets this properly set up and get the nice clean sounds I want in the truck
any ways enough of the and thanks guys for the assistance!! for more info check out the build thread of my truck to get a better idea of what I am doing.
Here are some pics of the boxes of what I am using
ok, i think i can help you. first, your stereo say 240 watts. that is a TOTAL amount of all 4 speaker outputs (left and right front, left and right rear), so actually each speaker is being sent 60 watts PEAK power. peak power (max) to a speaker only happens for a millisecond or so.
your "average" power is .707 of max power, or 70% of max power, which for your stereo, is about 42 watts continuous to each speaker.
the speakers you have are rated at 160 watts "peak" power each, so they can receive 112 watts average power.
The marketers of that stuff are a bunch of *******, making it more difficult to make comparisons. They can't bull**** their way through the arithmetic though. What size fuse is protecting the circuit? That will tell you the power capability.
Like most things, you get what you pay for. An underpowered amplifier will tend to roast speakers. Speakers need clean undistorted juice.
actually, this is how car audio electronics have been marketed for the past 30 yrs. one reason why they display the peak power is because people were blowing speakers, so they show what the max power they can carry for warranty purposes.
Has it been that long? They did that 40 years or so ago too, and then the FTC made them all use RMS power figures 20-20,000 hz, so buyers could make meaningful comparisons.
"Peak power" is complete BS whether amplifiers or speakers. My clock radio can put out that much, depending how it is measured.
Again, look at the fuse rating. Will tell you all you need to know.
fuse rating? i believe the OP was wanting to know the specs for his radio and speakers as far as power in watts. a fuse is only used inline for supply power in case there is an over-current (amperage) draw, and fuses are rated to blow at 125% of their rated value.
so your saying the power supply fuse rating is directly proportional to the output power that is generated in the amp? interesting. i have worked on stereo systems and electronics for many years, and that is a first for me.
Really, that's remarkable. Maybe not so much anymore I guess.
Volts. Amperes. Watts. All was hashed out long ago. Do the math.
For example, when you see a POS boom box that has a stickers all over it "Surround Sound" and "500 Watts!!" but, it has a 1/4 amp fuse, you KNOW they are lying. Well you knew that already, but that's the proof right there.
Facts are stubborn things, eh? So go run away then.
The only thing the OP needs to know is to compare like with like, apples with apples in terms of power ratings and the like. It's more often that speakers are "blown" by underpowered amplifiers than anything else. Buy a quality amplifier with plenty of power and low distortion and it will be a non issue.
dude, i dont know you, you dont know me. dont know why you think you can try and bust my ***** over something that I DO know WTF I am talking about. he wasnt asking about SNR, THD, or db's.
"Hi folks new to the audio car scene (I think that is what its called?) anyways I just recently installed a Kenwood DPX501BT in the mustang, and a Dual XR4120 into the Truck (won't be the final piece that goes in, its just a stand in so I can have my music and get the one I really want) I have a good grasp of the whole electronics deal as far as the installing the parts them selves, however what I want help is understanding thewhole watts RMS stuff, let me explain and using the system that I am installing in the truck show what I UNDERSTAND, so I can at least get pointed on the correct track (in case I am going about this wrong which could be likely)
anyways here goes...
Head unit = 240
Speakers = 160 (per set as indicated on the box) X2
So if we take both sets of speakers and put them together that would be a total of 320 Watts which is 80 over the 240 that my head unit can put out. So if I am looking at the numbers properly that means I am short 80 watts and need to make that up some way??
here is the equasion I used to figure all the numbers
Sorry, if you don't know simple stuff like Amps.. Watts .. Volts. Not my problem.
But ain't it interesting how you jump into this, start throwing accusations around, but somehow, I'm the one at fault here for simply pointing out basic facts hashed out over a hundred years ago. Jeeze.
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