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My rear fenders are off and I took the opportunity to try to clean the insides up. Some areas cleaned up nicely with a wire wheel and sanding disk. Other areas not quite as well and still other areas that would need to be media blasted to get into the small areas. My goal, as always, is just to make things a little better than I found them so perfection is not as important as protection. Soooo the question is rust converter or rust inhibitor or rust encapsulator, or something else? What have you used or what do you recommend? I would like to get it at a local store if possible but not necessary. I will probably paint over whatever I use with black paint.Thanks for any help, Matt
Personally I'm a fan of Eastwood Fast Etch and/or their Rust Dissolver. I've treated hundreds of smaller parts and fasteners with Fast Etch and it does a really great job. It leaves a phosphate coating on the part which takes paint well. If you've got some light rust in hard to reach places, this is the way to go.
I've used Rust Dissolver on larger panels like floor pans, and some heavier rust, it works really well too.
For really heavy surface rust or scale, I'd try an encapsulator of some sort. I don't have a ton of experience with that sort of product though, so I'll refrain from making suggestions.
We too are working over an F1. Just now ready to start the body panels. Spring cleaning around the house is priority now. we have a wrought iron fence on one side of an in ground pool. Painting it has always been a procrastination project of mine. My wife said this is the top priority project and it has to get done. While shopping at Lowes I found a Loctite product in a spray can that you spray over rust after removing any loose scale. I took the 2 gates off of the fence and headed to the garage. quickly going over the gates with a wire brush, and I mean quickly, I sprayed the gates with 2 coats. I was shocked at the outcome. It turned the rusty gate kind of a smoother clear coated look. I sprayed them and they turned out great. I am going to use this on all the surface rust on the body panels. especially the inside floor prior to 2 part primer coating.
The product is LOCTITE EXTEND, RUST NEUTRALIZER. Cost about $6 per spray can. I found it in the paint section at Lowes where the paint thinners/mineral spirits, etc is located. I liked it so well I bought 6 cans the next day.
I just got through using my little sand blast gun about an hour ago. I'm always impressed by it. Sometimes that's easy to do though. It's a siphon type , bag of media and a tube you stick down in it. Hook the air to the gun and pull the trigger. Cost me 20 bucks at Fleet Farm. I might try that and the n use the chemicals. Blasted my glove box door in about 15 minutes. I can take a pic if you wanna see it.
Years ago we had sprayed the boss mans frame on his truck with that stuff. Worked pretty good. We cob blasted it first. Not sure how much good that did though.
I just got through using my little sand blast gun about an hour ago. I'm always impressed by it. Sometimes that's easy to do though. It's a siphon type , bag of media and a tube you stick down in it. Hook the air to the gun and pull the trigger. Cost me 20 bucks at Fleet Farm. I might try that and the n use the chemicals. Blasted my glove box door in about 15 minutes. I can take a pic if you wanna see it.
I would love to see a picture. How much does the air gun go for and what type media did you use. As far as cleanup do you have to live on a farm or could you use it on a small side yard?
Took these pics a little while ago. Sorry they are gigantic.
As far as space needed, the stuff gets everywhere. A good unit if you're not doing a big piece. Otherwise it could take awhile. I have a 20 gal. 2 cylinder compressor and have to wait from time to time for it to catch up. I run about 60 to 70 psi for the blaster. Use a face shield and dust mask plus gloves if you hold the parts. Works fairly well for moderate rust and most paint removal. Cheap and easy
I had the same problem with my rear fenders. My truck had lived a rough life in Minnesota so I probably had more rust that average. I had to cut out a few sections and weld in patches. Like JakRak I'm a fan of the Eastwood products.
For rust spots I use a needle scaler first to get rid of the worst rust scale & old paint. Then a wire wheel.
If you are not going to do some type of media blast or have no way of completely removing the rust, I've had good luck with Sem Rust Mort. It's a rust converter.
If you have an decent air compressor and a spot on your property, it might be worth investing in a sand blaster. They're relatively inexpensive for one large enough to easily handle large parts the size of fenders, doors, etc.
Thanks to everyone for your input. I read the loctite directions and they said that use on bare metal may actually cause rust and since I had many variations I didn't use it for this application. I am definitely gonna get a needle scaler. My computer broke so in my spare time I got more prep time and just used primer. I'm gonna save all this good information for the next time.
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