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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:10 AM
  #16  
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yeah the bed needs a little work but its solid and i have it handled. but it also needs a core and right side inner fender. at the moment the only thing on the frame is the cab and drive train till i can take it to a close friend of mines to do all the work. hes a professional welder and has been doing bodywork sence age 12 and does it as a side job. hes gunna be the one that does my paint and body and help me do the final assembly on the truck.
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #17  
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There used to be a guy in Pittsburgh that parted out rust free southwest trucks on Craigslist. Cabs were bringing $700 Iirc.
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 06:05 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by belshe92
Should be a vin plate somewhere or the other
nope just the certification sticker on the drivers side door aperture right above the striker bolt, the firewall tag is only held in with a screw=removable, martiauto.com sells a replacement certification sticker
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:56 PM
  #19  
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I think a lot of what you're concerned about around the firewall seam and etc you could just hit with a needle scaler and some por or other rust inhibiting paint and you'll never have to worry about it again. But it's your call. If you're not doing the body work yourself, its so expensive to pay a shop that you would be ahead to get a clean cab even if it costs a thousand or more. If that's the case just call up southern truck and break out the check book.
 
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Old May 7, 2016 | 02:44 PM
  #20  
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I'd look around for another cab just for the available metal and would reshape any metal that was close to the shape needed for the repair. But then again I'm serious old school, used an beat up 89 cab for its metal to rebuild my 75 cab and doors.
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 04:57 PM
  #21  
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The thing of it is all my body work is FREE all i do is pay material costs. the guy doing the body work for me ive helped for 2-3 year just about every other weekend just being a good friend and he said hed pay me back one day when his life settles down and he said hes willing to trade up fair and square labor for labor. basically if i cant buy it ill wheel and deal anything in my possession to get it done (im a little bit of a truck adict, just like a drug addict id do just about anything if it means i get my satisfaction )
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 05:18 PM
  #22  
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Exactly. My cab is rough. But my spare time is free. Tackle what you can looks like you have a good plan for the rest
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 05:24 PM
  #23  
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The plan is by the end of summer have a nice looking 77 f150 short bed sittin on 35s with a 4 inch lift. (already has the lift on it)
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 06:25 PM
  #24  
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Well the materials are cheap... Super cheap if he is good with sheet metal. But, still, polishing a turd only gets you so far. Id replace the holes and clean up the rest and feel ok about it but I wouldn't want someone to put a $2k paint job over it, does that make sense?

Show it to him, see what he thinks.
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 08:13 PM
  #25  
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eah im not looking for a show stopper but i mean id like it to be a 10 footer like yes its gunna have flaws and im gunna beat it but be smart about it and if its gunna screw up my truck then no but if its hitting a mud hole thats 2-3 feet deep then hell yeah im gunna do it!!!!! theres a difference between beating it and having fun with it.
Ps. for a 16 year old id im damn good with a grinder, welder, hammer, and a shet metal brake
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 11:18 PM
  #26  
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I just spotted two low center hump rust free cabs at the pick a part in Meridian, Idaho. They still have factory paint on the floors. Too bad you are so far away.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 08:40 AM
  #27  
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low center hump? and yes thats almost 2400 miles away
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 11:30 AM
  #28  
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low center hump = 2WD
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 12:17 PM
  #29  
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Oh okay how do you convert a 2wd cab to 4wd?
 
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