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Old May 22, 2016 | 12:25 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by dcgayhart
When I built racing engines in the 60's we painted the engine oil gallery's with Glyptal® Red Enamel. New oil pan is $131 from Motortcraft. Glyptal is expensive, $30-$50 per can. Sounds like new pan is the best deal!
Ahhh how I remember that stuff---was great inside guitar amps I was "fixing" way back when.

Originally Posted by dcgayhart
I just ordered my engine and acc. from Camelback Ford. Should be able to pick it up June 6th, I'll try and remember to snap a few pics.
Can we ask how much total you'll have in everything?
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 09:33 AM
  #47  
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I haven't totaled up the damages yet. The engine was $3717 plus tax and the tranny was $1150. Add in the a/c rebuild, cooling system parts and fluids I guessing around $6000. When it's running again I'll post the bad news.
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 06:43 AM
  #48  
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For that same $6K towards another van you're far ahead because you know the condition now, not guessing or hoping something else wouldn't also have problems.

When I was thinking of replacing an engine (5.4 gasser) I budgeted $5K but that was hiring the job out. I'm thinking you've done well by DIY.
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 08:27 AM
  #49  
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I have owned this van since new so I know it well.
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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I wonder if I need to run any special "break-in oil"? I used Castrol GTX the entire life of the original engine. My newer vehicles I like Mobil 1 synthetic.
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 09:25 PM
  #51  
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In the early days of syn oil, it was recommended to use dino oil to break it in and then go to syn.
Having said that one of my vettes was run on M1 since day one when I bought it and has over 230k.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 05:42 AM
  #52  
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Oil-wise go with the better brands, my own preference towards the blended types such as Valvoline's Hi-Mileage which may not be advisable for a newly reman'd motor. As a blended oil its slightly less expensive which is important only because I change oil at 4K miles maximum, try for 3K most times.

From the first start though using the correct viscosity would be very important.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 09:40 AM
  #53  
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I used 5w30 GTX from day one but I think I'll switch to Mobil 1. I was surprise when I tore down the engine how much sludge was in the oil pan. Some of it was rod parts but still very muddy looking.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 10:00 AM
  #54  
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Not exactly sure what would cause that sludge but it is troubling you'd find so much in that few miles of driving.

Did you by chance cut the oil filter open after all this? That might be revealing. (Sorry if you posted anything on that---may have read through too quickly.)
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #55  
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Dino oil sludges up
syn doesn't
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 04:56 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by vettex2
In the early days of syn oil, it was recommended to use dino oil to break it in and then go to syn.
Having said that one of my vettes was run on M1 since day one when I bought it and has over 230k.
I love the fact that you put 230,000 on a corvette. My kind of guy!

I have no respect for a garage queen
😎
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 04:58 PM
  #57  
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Well my other vette only has 220 k
All are mine on both

Should be getting another new one next year.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 05:09 PM
  #58  
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Hopefully the synthetic oil will be better. I totaled up what I have invested so far. Including the engine, tranny, belt, hoses, a/c rebuild, cooling system parts and all fluids I'm at a little over $6200.
I know some misc. parts will be needed but I think this is fairly close to the total cost of the major components. I don't think this is to bad for completely rebuilding the power system and transmission.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 06:28 PM
  #59  
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no, that's at worst a fair price.
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 05:46 AM
  #60  
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My thoughts about your total is you're still very much ahead of spending that same money on another vehicle. Considering all you've done ponder what the same work would cost hired out.

I say congrats on getting this far----seems you've doing a great job!
 
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