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When I built racing engines in the 60's we painted the engine oil gallery's with Glyptal® Red Enamel. New oil pan is $131 from Motortcraft. Glyptal is expensive, $30-$50 per can. Sounds like new pan is the best deal!
Ahhh how I remember that stuff---was great inside guitar amps I was "fixing" way back when.
Originally Posted by dcgayhart
I just ordered my engine and acc. from Camelback Ford. Should be able to pick it up June 6th, I'll try and remember to snap a few pics.
Can we ask how much total you'll have in everything?
I haven't totaled up the damages yet. The engine was $3717 plus tax and the tranny was $1150. Add in the a/c rebuild, cooling system parts and fluids I guessing around $6000. When it's running again I'll post the bad news.
For that same $6K towards another van you're far ahead because you know the condition now, not guessing or hoping something else wouldn't also have problems.
When I was thinking of replacing an engine (5.4 gasser) I budgeted $5K but that was hiring the job out. I'm thinking you've done well by DIY.
I wonder if I need to run any special "break-in oil"? I used Castrol GTX the entire life of the original engine. My newer vehicles I like Mobil 1 synthetic.
In the early days of syn oil, it was recommended to use dino oil to break it in and then go to syn.
Having said that one of my vettes was run on M1 since day one when I bought it and has over 230k.
Oil-wise go with the better brands, my own preference towards the blended types such as Valvoline's Hi-Mileage which may not be advisable for a newly reman'd motor. As a blended oil its slightly less expensive which is important only because I change oil at 4K miles maximum, try for 3K most times.
From the first start though using the correct viscosity would be very important.
I used 5w30 GTX from day one but I think I'll switch to Mobil 1. I was surprise when I tore down the engine how much sludge was in the oil pan. Some of it was rod parts but still very muddy looking.
Not exactly sure what would cause that sludge but it is troubling you'd find so much in that few miles of driving.
Did you by chance cut the oil filter open after all this? That might be revealing. (Sorry if you posted anything on that---may have read through too quickly.)
In the early days of syn oil, it was recommended to use dino oil to break it in and then go to syn.
Having said that one of my vettes was run on M1 since day one when I bought it and has over 230k.
I love the fact that you put 230,000 on a corvette. My kind of guy!
Hopefully the synthetic oil will be better. I totaled up what I have invested so far. Including the engine, tranny, belt, hoses, a/c rebuild, cooling system parts and all fluids I'm at a little over $6200.
I know some misc. parts will be needed but I think this is fairly close to the total cost of the major components. I don't think this is to bad for completely rebuilding the power system and transmission.
My thoughts about your total is you're still very much ahead of spending that same money on another vehicle. Considering all you've done ponder what the same work would cost hired out.
I say congrats on getting this far----seems you've doing a great job!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.