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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Engine mount / Damper

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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:11 PM
  #1  
Geis's Avatar
Geis
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From: Gilbert, AZ
Engine mount / Damper

Hi everybody,

recently I swapped the exhaust manifolds and saw that the driver side manifold touches the frame (see picture - how is this part exactly called?) while the passenger side had a bit much more space.

Today I installed the rest of the exhaust and I used the first time my brand new creeper and came closer to the "problem".

Recently I also saw that the engine mount damper are quite old and maybe dried out in the dry AZ heat. I am planning to swap them soon.

I will show you here the mounts and why one manifold touches the bar and the other not.

Any suggestions what to do? leave it as is or should I swap them? Passenger side is almost nothing there anymore or was never before. Are there different sizes available to clear the manifold?






Cheers,
Dan
 
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:39 PM
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Yes definitely replace them. Dennis Carpenter has them in stock, pretty sure. Those on your truck were lunched 25 years ago. Engine mounts, xmsn mounts, crankshaft damper, brake hoses, fuel hoses, mouldings etc, anything made of, or including rubber as part of function needs replaced for certain.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 04:28 AM
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What brand headers did you install?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 08:27 AM
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A new mount on the passenger side will help rotate the engine and may provide a little more clearance on the drivers side problem. You need to replace both, you may need to remove the headers to be able to jack the engine up enough to replace them. Trial and error at this point. If the front mounts are bad the front of the engine will be tipped down, that will cause the headers to be raised at the rear, raising the front will provide more clearance in the rear, better check the fronts and replace.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 08:51 AM
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Geis
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Thanks a great point with the front mount. I haven't really checked that part yet and sounds logic! Thanks all!


@mask rider,

Have them installed:
1953-1964 F100 Ford 272-312 Y-Block Chassis Headers, AHC Coated - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

more about with more pictures:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-a-292-a.html
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
A new mount on the passenger side will help rotate the engine and may provide a little more clearance on the drivers side problem. You need to replace both, you may need to remove the headers to be able to jack the engine up enough to replace them. Trial and error at this point. If the front mounts are bad the front of the engine will be tipped down, that will cause the headers to be raised at the rear, raising the front will provide more clearance in the rear, better check the fronts and replace.
OP's 'About Me' profile says: 1964 F100, so it has two front center mounts, one above, one below the cross member.

At the rear, there are two mounts per side. One below the cross member, one above the cross member below the "ears" of the bell housing.

Upper pic: Front / Lower (lower) pic: Rear
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 03:52 PM
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They are Speedway Motors headers, which are Patriot headers and those do have interference problems, just as pictured. New mounts probably won't help.

The easiest solution will be to take that header off and hammer in some clearance, but that may void any warranty, if there is any.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 04:59 PM
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New mounts may not help the headers as Charlie said but they will help everything else. Yours are junk and need to be replaced. If there is a known interference problem with this brand of headers I wonder why they never corrected it?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 11:35 AM
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I am taking Hooker or Hedman long tubes off my list; I have same issue with both 65's on the passenger side; very slight increase in clearance with Hedman. Used 4" grinding wheel and removed small amount of material from the passenger side cross member, problem is, over time, sagging sets-in, whether from engine mount wear, shocks, etc., eventually speed pump, rough road, etc. the header bottoms out. I have taken the passenger side in twice to have cracks welded, sounds like it needs to be done again; plan to have muffler shop access if they can route an exhaust system if I switch to shorties?
 
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