Bolt specs for head studs
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 24
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From: Detroit
Bolt specs for head studs
I was looking for some info on the studs used for head stud replacement on a 05' 6.0. Size, length, thread pitch, steel composition. I am asking because I have access to a machine shop where I can have some made or bought. I just cant bring myself to spend $500 on ARP studs if I can get them for free! Are they just a plain Grade 8 stud with a 12 point nut and washer? Any insight would be helpful, or am I just being a cheap-o.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
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From: NW IA
Not saying you're a cheapo, but $500 is going to be cheap compared to doing it over if they fail because you may have got incorrect info from someone wanting to help.
I used to rebuild outboard two stroke crankshafts, a lot of time and money(lost) went into figuring out just the perfect recipe for what welding wires gave the best Rockwell harness in the radius and journal, what times for preheat, post weld and pre grinding, etc.
There was a reason only a handful of shops in the US did it at the time. I guess my point is there were guys that thought they knew better and tried things themselves, only to send us a core that was so trashed it could not be fixed. I would just suck it up and buy them.
I'ts not just a case of getting your hands on some G8 studs, if it as that easy there would be more jobbers doing the same.
I used to rebuild outboard two stroke crankshafts, a lot of time and money(lost) went into figuring out just the perfect recipe for what welding wires gave the best Rockwell harness in the radius and journal, what times for preheat, post weld and pre grinding, etc.
There was a reason only a handful of shops in the US did it at the time. I guess my point is there were guys that thought they knew better and tried things themselves, only to send us a core that was so trashed it could not be fixed. I would just suck it up and buy them.
I'ts not just a case of getting your hands on some G8 studs, if it as that easy there would be more jobbers doing the same.
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Detroit
Thats a valid point, I dont feel like Im being cheap, but thats a bunch of money for 8 bolts, and some nuts and washers. If they were a bit cheaper, it would be a no brainer. I figured If Im doing a EGR cooler and Oil cooler, I should do the head studs for peace of mind. Try to make it as bulletproof as I can. I have a 2014 F-150 that can tow my 11,000 lb camper. I bought this truck for $4,500 and am going to use it to pull the camper when my lease is up in October.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 360
Likes: 2
From: Greenville, SC
Not saying you're a cheapo, but $500 is going to be cheap compared to doing it over if they fail because you may have got incorrect info from someone wanting to help.
I used to rebuild outboard two stroke crankshafts, a lot of time and money(lost) went into figuring out just the perfect recipe for what wires gave the best Rockwell harness in the radius and journal, what times for preheat, post weld and grinding, etc.
There was a reason only a handful of shops in the US did it at the time. I guess my point is there were guys that thought they knew better and tried things themselves, only to send us a core that was so trashed it could not be fixed. I would just suck it up and buy them.
I'ts not just a case of getting your hands on some G8 studs, if it as that easy there would be more jobbers doing the same.
I used to rebuild outboard two stroke crankshafts, a lot of time and money(lost) went into figuring out just the perfect recipe for what wires gave the best Rockwell harness in the radius and journal, what times for preheat, post weld and grinding, etc.
There was a reason only a handful of shops in the US did it at the time. I guess my point is there were guys that thought they knew better and tried things themselves, only to send us a core that was so trashed it could not be fixed. I would just suck it up and buy them.
I'ts not just a case of getting your hands on some G8 studs, if it as that easy there would be more jobbers doing the same.
I would look at ARP studs not so much as expensive, but as costly.
Something expensive is not worth the money.
Something costly is worth the money. ARP studs are costly but worth it.
The value of your time? that's unique to everyone.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
Does MI have smog tests? Can you do a delete?
Reason I ask is there are 1000's of 6.0's running around with the original TTY's pulling daily. Mine was a puller, but the delete was done early on in it's life.
yes, at some point will likely get studs but it's just fine the way it is for now. You could use it as is and just save up for when/if it needs to be done.
Farmer I work for part time has five 6.0's now, has never studded a SINGLE one, runs 15W40 JD oil and nothing else, they get the crap beat out of them and I am amazed how they hold up. Changes oil every 5k miles, and never skimps on that, fuel filters every 7500. I don't think any of his are even deleted. They get used and abused daily, doing what they were designed to do.
Reason I ask is there are 1000's of 6.0's running around with the original TTY's pulling daily. Mine was a puller, but the delete was done early on in it's life.
yes, at some point will likely get studs but it's just fine the way it is for now. You could use it as is and just save up for when/if it needs to be done.
Farmer I work for part time has five 6.0's now, has never studded a SINGLE one, runs 15W40 JD oil and nothing else, they get the crap beat out of them and I am amazed how they hold up. Changes oil every 5k miles, and never skimps on that, fuel filters every 7500. I don't think any of his are even deleted. They get used and abused daily, doing what they were designed to do.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Blue Hill Township
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Detroit
Thanks for the imput guys, I will save for them and do ot when I get the money and time. I dont know if Michigan has smog laws, I know our personal gas vehicles dont need to get tested.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
good description of the different studs available. I'd be watching for any of these, maybe a special on-line somewhere?
This was grabbed from another site... PowerStroke Nation;
There are basically 3 different grades to think about in this case - 8740 is the material that ARP uses for their basic stud and and is the lower ksi rating, then there is ARP2000 which is a higher rating, one step up from that is H11 which ARP calls L19. So the H11 are the highest rating available, this translates into the ability to apply higher clamp load with the fastener, also that the higher rated stud will be harder to stretch.
This was grabbed from another site... PowerStroke Nation;
There are basically 3 different grades to think about in this case - 8740 is the material that ARP uses for their basic stud and and is the lower ksi rating, then there is ARP2000 which is a higher rating, one step up from that is H11 which ARP calls L19. So the H11 are the highest rating available, this translates into the ability to apply higher clamp load with the fastener, also that the higher rated stud will be harder to stretch.
Elder User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 765
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From: Patricia, Alberta
I honestly wouldn't worry about it if your not beating on it. I took my engine apart at 370,000km, it had torched 5 pistons from bad injectors, I had abused it many times with canned tunes on kill, and the gaskets still looked good when I pulled it apart.
And you'll be getting 20 bolts, not 8.
And you'll be getting 20 bolts, not 8.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spanaway
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