other head stud vendors?
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From: Exton, PA
other head stud vendors?
so, I'm starting to price out my rebuild and I still can't get over the cost of ARP head studs. I know that everyone swears by them, but $500+ for a box of hardware just seems crazy.
I know they're roll-formed and heat treated and all that jazz, but it still must be 500%+ profit for these guys.
anyone know of any other vendors making studs for our trucks?
I'm half-tempted to call up a few of our hardware vendors we use here at work and see what they can come up with.
I know they're roll-formed and heat treated and all that jazz, but it still must be 500%+ profit for these guys.
anyone know of any other vendors making studs for our trucks?
I'm half-tempted to call up a few of our hardware vendors we use here at work and see what they can come up with.
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From: Exton, PA
Yeah, I got to thinking about that this evening - not much demand for these studs and I guess such long, heavy duty studs aren't used elsewhere in the automotive world
I did some searching this afternoon and came across a company called H11, but they were even more expensive!
Searching with the ARP pn s a good idea...
I did some searching this afternoon and came across a company called H11, but they were even more expensive!
Searching with the ARP pn s a good idea...
Fleet Owner
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From: AZ
I read before I did mine the H11's were even better but I didn't want to spend more.
Question that I never asked, are the ARP's reuseable in case a guy rebuilds his motor and has to pull the head for some reason?
Question that I never asked, are the ARP's reuseable in case a guy rebuilds his motor and has to pull the head for some reason?
Hotshot
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From: Austin, TX
You can't torque ARPs as many times as H11s. I don't think I'd torque ARPs more than maybe 3-4 times depending on what's gonna be done with the engine.
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I was going to say that 7.3 guys typically don't go with the cheap ARP studs, but pony up the cash for the H11's at around $750 a set. (H11 is the type of steel, not the company that makes them.)
H11's are top of the line, much stronger than the ARP product, and are made by the same company that does studs for top fuel dragsters. If it's good enough for 6000 hp motors, it's good enough for mine!
Honestly, if you think $500 is expensive to keep head gaskets from blowing, you should stay with Stage-2 injectors and be happy with 400 hp.
You have to pay to play, and a $750 set of studs is probably one of the cheapest parts you'll buy in a high performance item. Consider $1700 on Hybrids, $5000 on a built trans, $3000 on a turbo set-up, $1200 on a fuel system, and $XXX on custom tuning, etc, all of which are pointless without the $750 studs.....
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From: Exton, PA
The thing is they are not just a "box of hardware."
I was going to say that 7.3 guys typically don't go with the cheap ARP studs, but pony up the cash for the H11's at around $750 a set. (H11 is the type of steel, not the company that makes them.)
H11's are top of the line, much stronger than the ARP product, and are made by the same company that does studs for top fuel dragsters. If it's good enough for 6000 hp motors, it's good enough for mine!
Honestly, if you think $500 is expensive to keep head gaskets from blowing, you should stay with Stage-2 injectors and be happy with 400 hp.
You have to pay to play, and a $750 set of studs is probably one of the cheapest parts you'll buy in a high performance item. Consider $1700 on Hybrids, $5000 on a built trans, $3000 on a turbo set-up, $1200 on a fuel system, and $XXX on custom tuning, etc, all of which are pointless without the $750 studs.....
I was going to say that 7.3 guys typically don't go with the cheap ARP studs, but pony up the cash for the H11's at around $750 a set. (H11 is the type of steel, not the company that makes them.)
H11's are top of the line, much stronger than the ARP product, and are made by the same company that does studs for top fuel dragsters. If it's good enough for 6000 hp motors, it's good enough for mine!
Honestly, if you think $500 is expensive to keep head gaskets from blowing, you should stay with Stage-2 injectors and be happy with 400 hp.
You have to pay to play, and a $750 set of studs is probably one of the cheapest parts you'll buy in a high performance item. Consider $1700 on Hybrids, $5000 on a built trans, $3000 on a turbo set-up, $1200 on a fuel system, and $XXX on custom tuning, etc, all of which are pointless without the $750 studs.....
now that you've mentioned stage 2's and HP, though - my plans are probably only for stage 1's or maybe stage 1.5's. I'd be happy with ~350 hp in the end - better than stock, but not crazy. I know people usually talk of studs when 40 psi is exceeded, but do you think 350, maybe 400 hp warrants studs anyway?
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From: AZ
JP, what your talking about, IMHO, stock will serve you fine. Its only the convenience of doing them while your motor is out.
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...now that you've mentioned stage 2's and HP, though - my plans are probably only for stage 1's or maybe stage 1.5's. I'd be happy with ~350 hp in the end - better than stock, but not crazy. I know people usually talk of studs when 40 psi is exceeded, but do you think 350, maybe 400 hp warrants studs anyway?
I'm sure they are fine for most guys, but back when I was shooting for the sky I wanted the best I could get anyway.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
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From: Plankinton, SD
ARP makes a good stud. They are not a cheap stud for any application. I use a lot of arp studs. Maybe not "the best"
in this situation, but there is no need for "the best" in most situations. Most of us aren't building an all out drag truck/puller.
I only have stage ones, and there was no way I was going to keep running the way I was without going to studs. I can hit 40 psi, and hold 35 or so pulling hills with my trailer without egt's getting too high. I work my truck hard, and don't need to be sitting on the side of the road with a head gasket out.
in this situation, but there is no need for "the best" in most situations. Most of us aren't building an all out drag truck/puller. I only have stage ones, and there was no way I was going to keep running the way I was without going to studs. I can hit 40 psi, and hold 35 or so pulling hills with my trailer without egt's getting too high. I work my truck hard, and don't need to be sitting on the side of the road with a head gasket out.
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From: Exton, PA
ARP makes a good stud. They are not a cheap stud for any application. I use a lot of arp studs. Maybe not "the best" in this situation, but there is no need for "the best" in most situations. Most of us aren't building an all out drag truck/puller. I only have stage ones, and there was no way I was going to keep running the way I was without going to studs. I can hit 40 psi, and hold 35 or so pulling hills with my trailer without egt's getting too high. I work my truck hard, and don't need to be sitting on the side of the road with a head gasket out.
in this situation, but there is no need for "the best" in most situations. Most of us aren't building an all out drag truck/puller. I only have stage ones, and there was no way I was going to keep running the way I was without going to studs. I can hit 40 psi, and hold 35 or so pulling hills with my trailer without egt's getting too high. I work my truck hard, and don't need to be sitting on the side of the road with a head gasket out. Then, try to get them in within the year...
We'll see.
Whatever the case, it certainly seems like there are not really many alternatives to ARP for our trucks...
Good to know. As usual, thanks for the discussion guys!
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