Help P1316 7.3
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Joined: Jul 2014
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Help P1316 7.3
Hello there!
I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine.
Any help would be much appreciated as I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine.
Any help would be much appreciated as I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 86
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From: CA
Hmmm. possible causes come to mind are either or both Injector or circuits. Open or shorted IDM circuit (doubtful) but should be checked.
A quick test to check for an intermittent open is to Measure resistance on (FDCS) Circuit 821 (BR/O) between IDM connector Pin 17 and PCM Test Pin 95. And Measure resistance on Circuit 818 (look these up, I did one the other day and seem to remember these numbers) between IDM connector Pin 4 and PCM Test Pin 48. Yu can also do the "Wiggle Test" which is to Grasp the harness close to the IDM connector and wiggle, shake, and pull the harness while working your way back to the PCM looking for variable meter spikes (Volt Meter).
A quick test to check for an intermittent open is to Measure resistance on (FDCS) Circuit 821 (BR/O) between IDM connector Pin 17 and PCM Test Pin 95. And Measure resistance on Circuit 818 (look these up, I did one the other day and seem to remember these numbers) between IDM connector Pin 4 and PCM Test Pin 48. Yu can also do the "Wiggle Test" which is to Grasp the harness close to the IDM connector and wiggle, shake, and pull the harness while working your way back to the PCM looking for variable meter spikes (Volt Meter).
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,812
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From: Elk Grove, CA
Inspect the harness where it goes across the driver side valve cover. It is prone to rubbing and creating intermittent shorts. That's the "42 pin harness", btw. To make inspection easy loosen the bolt holding the two halves of the 42 pin connector together. The bolt is captive so it will not remove entirely. Then you can pull it over and have a good gander for chafe spots.
If all good and you have a multimeter check continuity from 42 pins to injector wires. Nifty labelled pic from epic contributor Tugly below to help with that.
If it's not the wires, and the primary culprit UVCH harness is new, it's probably the IDM as z31freakify mentioned.
If all good and you have a multimeter check continuity from 42 pins to injector wires. Nifty labelled pic from epic contributor Tugly below to help with that.
If it's not the wires, and the primary culprit UVCH harness is new, it's probably the IDM as z31freakify mentioned.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,340
Likes: 588
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Run a KOEO or injector buzz test and see what codes the IDM has stored before you go and spend the money on an IDM. Check the underside of the main harness to the engine where it crosses over the left valve cover. That's a spot that's known to chafe and short.
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I'm going to have a buzz test done this week and see if I get any codes from the IDM. I did a check of the underside of the main Harness where it crosses the valve cover and nothing rubbed through looks good.
I'm not very good with electrical testing, so I hope that getting some codes from the IDM will help me out a bit and shed more light on the issue.
I'm not very good with electrical testing, so I hope that getting some codes from the IDM will help me out a bit and shed more light on the issue.
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Inspect the harness where it goes across the driver side valve cover. It is prone to rubbing and creating intermittent shorts. That's the "42 pin harness", btw. To make inspection easy loosen the bolt holding the two halves of the 42 pin connector together. The bolt is captive so it will not remove entirely. Then you can pull it over and have a good gander for chafe spots.
If all good and you have a multimeter check continuity from 42 pins to injector wires. Nifty labelled pic from epic contributor Tugly below to help with that.
If it's not the wires, and the primary culprit UVCH harness is new, it's probably the IDM as z31freakify mentioned.
If all good and you have a multimeter check continuity from 42 pins to injector wires. Nifty labelled pic from epic contributor Tugly below to help with that.
If it's not the wires, and the primary culprit UVCH harness is new, it's probably the IDM as z31freakify mentioned.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Vancouver
Testing the wiring as already mentioned is an excellent idea. The connections under the valve covers live in a hostile environment - heat and oil. You can check the resistance reading to each injector coil with a volt-ohm meter at the 42 pin connector. It is not uncommon for the plastic shell of the under valve harnesses to disintegrate to the point that the latching fails, causing the connector to separate. This can partially or completely open the injector circuits or cause an intermittent connection that vibrates open and closed. The injectors need a low resistance connection to enable them to work right.
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Turns out the bolt holding the two half's of the 42 pin harness wasn't tight enough which was causing a bad connection, I tightened it down and she runs like new 
Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it!
Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it!
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