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I found this on oreily but seemed to be on the expensive side. I think you can find them around 30 bucks I'll have to check out Grainger but I know their proud of their high prices also.
I am no filter expert what so ever, but this is a bypass filter at 5 micron. I think it would work fine but when it comes to types of oil and filters I start to get lost.
I have had the Oil Guard bypass on my F-250 for about 11 years. But back when I bought it the kit was like $125. Now it's $300 and the darn filter replacements are $25 each plus shipping. Definitely not cost effective anymore in my book.
When using an oil bypass system and wanting to go with extended drain intervals it is a must IMO to also run a used oil analysis report ($20). This is the only way to know the oil life (oxidation & nitration values) and the additive levels.
Just to clarify, I didn't mean to imply that you should always have to do a UOA report, but you should do them until you build up enough historical data to feel comfortable that you know what results to expect at certain intervals.
You can easily go 7,500 miles with a good diesel oil and a bypass filter.
If we can get this going, should I snag a UOA sample when I install it and change my oil, or wait for the first oil change after running the bypass filter?
If we can get this going, should I snag a UOA sample when I install it and change my oil, or wait for the first oil change after running the bypass filter?
SpringerPop had a write up on a DIY oil bypass filter that he ran for years. All the links I find after a search seem to come up at a dead end. I need to e-mail him.
Grabbing a sample when you change the oil & install the kit would be a good idea as long as the oil has at least 3,000 miles on it. Then you would have a good comparison after the first oil change with the bypass kit. Just make sure you get a good clean sample and it doesn't get contaminated from any rust around the oil drain plug.
Here's a link to a couple of different full flow oil filters to match up with the bypass filter......fleetfilter and dieselfiltersonline have some great prices.
A year or two ago I switched to using Polaris Labs, I like the report format and they include oxidation & nitration levels as well as an optional particle quantifier.
Some of the popular UOA companies on the Forums don't report the oxidation & nitration numbers or don't explain what the values mean. So you have to rely on them telling you when to change the oil.
The pinhole is to prevent low oil pressure loss into the bypass filter - you need one somewhere.
If you're serious about this, the 2-3 micron rating is the target. 5 micron (like some shared in links) will do OK, but soot is pretty fine stuff to get out. The finer the filter, the more soot will be removed.
I have found only one filter (so far) that is rated down to that level, and it has proprietary threads - so a standard filter base won't work (go figure): Amsoil EABP100. $47 on Amazon.
Whatever you get for a filter and base, make sure it can take the strain of a filter wrench when removing the filter. I bought the kit from NUC Motorsports and the mounting bracket bent like a cheap cafe fork.
The pinhole is to prevent low oil pressure loss into the bypass filter - you need one somewhere.
If you're serious about this, the 2-3 micron rating is the target. 5 micron (like some shared in links) will do OK, but soot is pretty fine stuff to get out. The finer the filter, the more soot will be removed.
I have found only one filter (so far) that is rated down to that level, and it has proprietary threads - so a standard filter base won't work (go figure): Amsoil EABP100. $47 on Amazon.
Whatever you get for a filter and base, make sure it can take the strain of a filter wrench when removing the filter. I bought a kit and the mounting bracket bent like a cheap cafe fork.
Thanks, Rich
I was thinking about a B50 filter that many have used. I'm not thrilled about moving into the Amsoil world due to price. Looking for something a little more economical.
I do plan on building my own mount on the rail. Have to make 2 mounts, so I can finally add that Racor strainer in my fuel line, too
Looking at the OB1305 as the filter base (head) so it has compatible threads.
I found a guide from Ken. I'd rather go more on the hydraulic hoses and decent on the filters but not break the bank.
Do you have a suggestion or favorite filter, other than the Amsoil, that fits the standard filter threads of the 1305?
I've read the B50 is pleated paper media and such, but the links are old and broken.
I am not Amsoil's biggest fan but they do have a nice bypass filter...
Another option instead of a kit is buy parts ala cart. The BMK21 kit's filter head, part number BK303, is only $44 bucks or so. Napa, a hydrualic shop or any parker store should have no problem hooking you up with the lines and fittings...
When I had a single amsoil bypass on my old dodge I would run the filter for 2 years. Even after 50-60k miles the filter was still flowing and that thing weighed a TON when I took it off. Important thing to consider with a bypass filter... in the case of a 7.3 the port tapped for oil flow was a plug prior to the installation of the filter. So if the filter plugs or fills it doesn't effect anything on the truck so there is no need to change the filter all that frequently. In my case amsoil recommended a max of a 2 year interval so I just stuck with that but when I took the filter off it was still flowing. Just my two pennies.
I used the NUC Deluxe kit 3 years ago. I have zero complaints on it. It uses Amsoil EaBP100 filters and they are expensive but I only replace them every other oil change and those are at 10k mi intervals. I try to order 2-3 Amsoil filters at a time so I have one on the shelf when I need one.
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