Can't help the face..lol. figure big tough truck guys could handle it.

When you mount the filter leave room for the other. The guard doesn't stop the mud from splashing obviously but has prevented damage and I spend a good bit of time in the woods

 

That I like. Great job!

 

My POV FWIW is to not try to get the most out of a batch of oil. I'll change the oil at 3k for conventional or 5k for synthetic and call it good. The extra cost, complexity, and questionable benefit to engine longevity with lengthy intervals / by pass filtration weigh heavily.

 

The main thing I want to help is the turdy performance that creeps up as I approach 5k, dino or synthetic.

I know the oil isn't sheared at that mileage, gotta be dirt.

I'm of the belief that if the injectors are "noticing" the dirt, it can't be good for them.

Although I may consider extending the oil change a bit, I'm hoping to move to dino for summer and keep it as clean as possible and not beat up the injectors towards the end of the service interval.

If all stays clean and such- and the yet-to-be-done UOA supports it, I might extend enough to save one oil change a year. That would pay for the bypass setup and extra filters right there, without getting greedy or risky.

At least until December screws us all

But I am all ears

 

Sounds like an achievable plan to me.......,

 

Choosing to use s full synthetic oil with the goal of increasing oil change intervals (OCI) is not the best course of action in my opinion.

When you look at virgin oil samples comparing synthetics to conventional oils you will see that the conventional have more Additives than synthetics. So you can potentially get a cleaner engine by running two cycles of a quality conventional oil compared to one cycle of a synthetic oil. That is - with all other things being equal........

 

I've picked your brain more than a few times about this and appreciate our chats.

The Delo partial syn may be the one for me, as you've said to get the oil longevity and the additives package.

I thought bypass filters would be expensive, but at $5/ea, might swap them every 5k, along with my fl1995 and drain /replace a gallon of oil every 2k...

Think something crazy like that will work?

 

Sounds like a good plan, just get a couple of UOA's done between 3-5,000 miles to see how the oil is doing and you can go from there.

 

Think that's necessary? It tasted fine to me

The OCI I'm thinking about above will yield an effective 8k interval.

1 gallon will be 2k, 1 will be 4k, 1 will be 6k, one will be 8k, and all will be CLEAN because of the bypass filter.

This will give me an average of 5k on my oil at any time, but with CLEAN oil and FRESH additives, fresh filters at 5k, and regular draining from the pan for any contaminants. But each gallon will go 8k before its turn to be swapped.

Since shearing doesn't usually occur in our 7.3Ls until 10k-16k (depending on the oil) and the constant renewal of additives (any danger of OVERDOING the additives?) it seems like a very low risk with better-than-normal oil conditions for my engine and injectors.

I drive about 20k or so a year so far in our Excursion. Here's the math.

20k = 4 oil changes at $100 or so per change (depends if dino or syn and any sales/rebates)= $400/yr

Above method would be 2.5 oil changes per year = $250/yr

Oil filter bypass setup $100-$150 (TBD), + $7.50 for bypass filters = $160 max first year.

1st year savings = $400 - ($250 + $160) = $10 Basically break even
2nd and subsequent years = $400 -($250 + $7.50) = $142.50 savings

Cleaner oil, better additive levels, no change in primary filter intervals, extra filtering at same intervals.

See any Downsides?

 

You Could try drinking it, it has quite a bit of calcium like milk. Didn't your momma make you drink castor oil when you were kid...........

 

I don't see any downsides right now. A UOA at 3-5K with a company that reports oxidation, soot & viscosity will show the oils life and how the additives are holding up. I don't think you need to do a UOA every oil change for life, but just enough to build some historical values so that you feel comfortable and know what expect from the oil & filter you are using.

Here's the part I'm confused on:

"1 gallon will be 2k, 1 will be 4k, 1 will be 6k, one will be 8k, and all will be CLEAN because of the bypass filter."

Do you plan on changing filters and partial oil at these intervals?

 

Yes, the Baldwin B50 is absolute (98.6667% efficient aka Beta Ratio of 75) at 15 microns, the P550050 is 45 microns. I don't know the full range of beta's for a FL1995 is it is possible it is more efficient at below absolute efficiency but I honestly have no idea. One of the most frustrating things about filters is that just cause something cross references to another filter doesn't mean they perform the same. For example, the OEM spec a CR 5.9 Cummins fuel filter is 7 microns, however many auto parts store fuel filters, that cross reference to the OEM filter, are 10-22 microns, which at 25,000 psi of fuel pressure can lead to issues. On the other hand the Baldwin PF7977, which crosses to the OEM filter, is 5 microns.

 

Ouch. Maybe I got bitten by a non-equivalent cross reference It is listed as a bypass filter, so why would it be such a poor micron rating, would be sort of useless? Except maybe the lower flow will filter better?

 

I'm planning on draining a gallon every 2k. Maybe not practical, maybe 50% drain at half oci would be better?

Of course, now maybe my bypass filter won't be doing its job, see the micron ratings above

 

i would just spend the $20 on a UOA (at 3K miles) instead of the oil at 2K miles. Then you can compare the results to a virgin oil sample and see how the additive levels compare between the two. If your going to run Delo 400 I'm 99% sure you will easily go twice that before needing to do anything.

As for the oil filter, RufusHusky has the info & knowlege. Keep picking his brain 😎👍🏻