did you replace/remove the catalytic converter ?

 

Yes joey2fords the catalytic converter has been removed, that was damaged when the ram shot up and tipped the truck over so that's not an issue

This morning we are in the middle of a snow globe, it is very windy too. The reason I said this is because I had to drive in this for an interview this morning. As I was driving, my truck worked the worst it ever has. It had absolutely no power and at one point it acted as if it were running out of gas. I'm am wondering could there be something else cracked or broken in the distributor? Cause the engine was covered in snow and as the engine warmed up and the snow melted my truck started getting worse. I've heard a lot of stories about the location of the coil and connector itself. Could this be where some of my trouble is? Also is it possible to relocate the coil somewhere else where it is not subjected to so much moisture? I've been told that the longer the coil wire is from the distributor the less power it has. Is this true? I must be getting moisture into something for it to operate so poorly. I don't understand why ford has to put these important parts so near to water on an inline six engine

 

Hey guys sorry to be a bother I've been getting some great advice from everyone here regarding the problems my F150 has been having. However I posted something up on the 9th regarding the ignition coil and I haven't received any responses. Just wondering if there would be a difference relocating it a bit further away from the distributor, more or less in a dryer area on the engine. If you didn't see the post please accept my apologies. Thanks once again.

 

You haven't addressed the comments about the EGR valve or what you've done to make sure it isn't open. Have you blocked it off and taken it for a test ride yet?

The coil if you think its getting wet and that is creating a problem hose it down with WD-40, spray the coil's body and its electrical connections including the coil wire up to the dizzys cap.

If water on the coil from it getting wet is part of or the whole cause of the issue hosing it down would provide immediate results, the moisture would be displaced it would instantly run better.

Feel free to try it the WD-40 won't hurt a thing, it displaces moisture and doesn't conduct electricity.

 

My mistake, Here's what I've done so far. I haven't taken the EGR valve off yet for the steel tube is seized and I don't want to break it. However I know this shouldn't be done, but one day while I was checking the coil, etc. after it got wet, I decided while the engine was running to give the EGR valve a little tap. When I did this I got immediate results. The engine began to sputter and at one point actually stalled. I fired it right back up but it was running so bad I thought it was going to shake itself out of the truck. So I tapped the EGR valve again and right away it began to level out. It seems like I'm on to something but not quite sure. Also I seen a video on YouTube about vacuums. If the "apple juice" can has a hole in it, it will lose vacuum for the EGR. I haven't checked that yet, but intend to soon. I also saw that if this can is rusted out that you can make one out of pvc pipe. Ensuring t never to rust again. Back to my ignition coil after I do this simple test and find that the engine does stall due to moisture, am I able to move the coil and put it in a higher place on the engine so that it isn't exposed to so much moisture? I am also taking the distributor cap off to see if I have any cracks or corrosion on it. Thanks again for responding, you've been a wonderful help

 

If the vacuum canister had rusted through it'd be a vac leak and the EGR valve would have little or no vacuum supplied to it. Vacuum opens the valve it doesn't close it/hold it closed.
If your canister is damaged plug the vac lines to it.

If the tube feeding the EGR valve won't come loose without fear of breaking it that isn't a problem. Instead of putting a coin in its tube to block it off remove the two bolts holding the valve to the intake. Cut a thin sheet of metal to go between the valve and the intake, cut the bolt holes but leave the port area uncut. Sandwich it between the two, effectively blocking all exhaust gasses from entering the intake via the EGR valve.

Take it for a ride, if it runs better that will definitively show the egr system as the cause of the problem or eliminate it completely.

If it still suffers problems leave that block off plate in there for now anyway, it will keep any small issues the EGR system might have from adding another layer to problems elsewhere.
Once those other issues if any are corrected then it would be time to remove that plate restoring EGR function, correcting any problems it might have at that time.

But you must fix any vacuum leaks, if you can't for whatever reason get replacement parts for example a rusted threw vac canister then simply plug its vac supply line/s up on the upper intake for the time being.
And don't build a tank from PVC pipe, it would be a easier to get a all plastic tank from a later mode.